Ponies on The Run (Again)
#5261
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Unless you want your CDC Shaker to suck like mine:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253
#5262
Shelby GT350 Member
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You might get that impression, but I am just on a fact finding mission. Trying to bounce comments off of people to see which mod is for me. I was thinking of dumping the stock box, but Fred tells me why he doesn't like the CDC, so I figure I ask folks who have CDCs...I'm no gear head, so it takes me a bit more research to decide what I want. Relax...
I enjoy all of your rides...
I enjoy all of your rides...
Unless you want your CDC Shaker to suck like mine:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253
#5263
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I don't think you are being negative, but you **** well better like our rides.
Yeah!
#1
+1 for #1, Leo.
Tom, I get your point, but I don't know if anyone else does. Can you post that link AGAIN?
Alan seems to keep missing it.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253
Yeah!
#1
+1 for #1, Leo.
Tom, I get your point, but I don't know if anyone else does. Can you post that link AGAIN?
Alan seems to keep missing it.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253
#5264
Now that all is said and done, I still like my K&N CAI.
Is it better than the other CAI's on the market? No, just personal choice.
Do other CAI's provide more HP gains than the K&N? Absolutely.
As you all know I'll be painting my calipers this week and wanted an opinion on a little extra touch I'm planning on adding.
So my question is should I get these or not? They also come with a "Mustang" text which I'm not to sure about. So here are the voting options:
1) No decals
2) Pony only
3) Pony & "Mustang" text
So my question is should I get these or not? They also come with a "Mustang" text which I'm not to sure about. So here are the voting options:
1) No decals
2) Pony only
3) Pony & "Mustang" text
You want the calipers to blend in with the whole wheel package, not be a focal point when looking at it.
Tom's experiment was a success, where mine failed.
#5266
You bought Doctor Doug's Gigarrific Cosmic Euchre?
#5267
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One thing that has been bothering me for a long time is the bolts that attach the struts to the spindle. There is so much slop in both the upper and lower bolts.
So, I finally ordered 9/16" bolts, washers, and lock nuts. All are Grade 8 hardware. The factory bolts are 14mm and 9/16" converts to 14.2875mm. I figured with the little bit extra it would take up more of the slack.
I was right. The bolts slipped right into the strut holes and needed to be lightly tapped through the spindles. When both the upper and lower bolts were in and tapped all the way through, the slop is practically non-existant.
Now I know both sides of the car are identical and I can make small camber adjustments up top where the strut attaches to the strut towers.
In fact, I used a lug nut to hold the rotor tight on the spindle on both sides (with the tire off). Then, I measured from the strut body to the edge of the rotor. This distance changes with the slop in the strut-to-spindle bolts up to 1/4". Now, both distances are identical down to 1/32".
Also, with 9/16" Grade 8 bolts, they can be torqued to 184 lb-ft, so the factory torque of 148 lb-ft needed on the 14mm bolts is no problem (I put 160 lb-ft on all 4 bolts).
I'll take pics of the new pretty bolts tomorrow morning. Then, when I get the tires back on and drive around the block a few times, I'll take a camber measurement before I touch the upper 4 nuts at the strut tower to see what my camber is.
So, I finally ordered 9/16" bolts, washers, and lock nuts. All are Grade 8 hardware. The factory bolts are 14mm and 9/16" converts to 14.2875mm. I figured with the little bit extra it would take up more of the slack.
I was right. The bolts slipped right into the strut holes and needed to be lightly tapped through the spindles. When both the upper and lower bolts were in and tapped all the way through, the slop is practically non-existant.
Now I know both sides of the car are identical and I can make small camber adjustments up top where the strut attaches to the strut towers.
In fact, I used a lug nut to hold the rotor tight on the spindle on both sides (with the tire off). Then, I measured from the strut body to the edge of the rotor. This distance changes with the slop in the strut-to-spindle bolts up to 1/4". Now, both distances are identical down to 1/32".
Also, with 9/16" Grade 8 bolts, they can be torqued to 184 lb-ft, so the factory torque of 148 lb-ft needed on the 14mm bolts is no problem (I put 160 lb-ft on all 4 bolts).
I'll take pics of the new pretty bolts tomorrow morning. Then, when I get the tires back on and drive around the block a few times, I'll take a camber measurement before I touch the upper 4 nuts at the strut tower to see what my camber is.
#5268
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Leave it to Tom to bother fixing like that. Make sure to post pics though.
Thanks for the opinions I'll go the no decal route then. I'll be doing the painting tomorrow. Hopefully I can convince everyone (except Daryl since he's already had this on his list since forever ago.) to buy the G2 kit.
Thanks for the opinions I'll go the no decal route then. I'll be doing the painting tomorrow. Hopefully I can convince everyone (except Daryl since he's already had this on his list since forever ago.) to buy the G2 kit.
#5269
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
I went with the K&N for two reasons.
1) I bought it used from another TMS member for halfprice.
2) I didn't have or plan on a tune at the time.
If that situtation wouldn't have come up I don't really know if I would have gone with another intake or not. I've seen the shaker with both and think it looks good either way. You can't really go wrong with either the C&L, JLT, or K&N there's only a few HP difference between them. I doubt you'd notice a performance difference unless you dynoed them.
1) I bought it used from another TMS member for halfprice.
2) I didn't have or plan on a tune at the time.
If that situtation wouldn't have come up I don't really know if I would have gone with another intake or not. I've seen the shaker with both and think it looks good either way. You can't really go wrong with either the C&L, JLT, or K&N there's only a few HP difference between them. I doubt you'd notice a performance difference unless you dynoed them.
That would be my answer almost word for word. (Of course I don't have a shaker though).
I'd add that my dyno tuner said there is not enough difference in HP between the intakes to matter much. He is a Mustang guy and owns a dyno. He also said the x-pipes and exhaust (like yours) would be more useful than a bigger intake.
#5271
GTR Member
I am having a hard time trying to figure out what to do about my calipers. I am going with the zinc plated rotorpros rotors and will paint them the same color with rust proofer before I install.. should I
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
oh yeah Happy New Year!!
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
oh yeah Happy New Year!!
#5272
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Location: It's tough in the jungle !
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I am having a hard time trying to figure out what to do about my calipers. I am going with the zinc plated rotorpros rotors and will paint them the same color with rust proofer before I install.. should I
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
oh yeah Happy New Year!!
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
oh yeah Happy New Year!!
#5273
GTR Member
I didn't think about painting afterwards! Thanks
#5275
Shelby GT350 Member
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I am having a hard time trying to figure out what to do about my calipers. I am going with the zinc plated rotorpros rotors and will paint them the same color with rust proofer before I install.. should I
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
oh yeah Happy New Year!!
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
oh yeah Happy New Year!!
One of the things I wanted to do, until I figured out the cost and time involved, was to actually get the calipers Powder Coated to match (VB). I think that would look great, BUT the price of an extra set is ridiculous and it's my daily driver so the down time would be unacceptable.
So I am back to G2 Blue or Red.
#5276
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You bought Doctor Doug's Gigarrific Cosmic Euchre?
It should be here tomorrow.
#5277
Even the stock 14mm bolts, once camber is set and torqued down, it ain't going anywhere.
I am having a hard time trying to figure out what to do about my calipers. I am going with the zinc plated rotorpros rotors and will paint them the same color with rust proofer before I install.. should I
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?
please give me your opinions......
If they look like they have some miles on them, paint them.
Polished would look good, but to do it right, they have to be powdercoated clear after polishing. Otherwise, don't expect them to have that luster after a few weeks on the road.
I'd consider black or red. The blue would probably clash with the VB of your car, thus drawing unwanted attention to them.
FYI I'm a mind reader. (Like Leo)
#5278
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Wouldn't you have to rough up the polished look prior to painting?
One of the things I wanted to do, until I figured out the cost and time involved, was to actually get the calipers Powder Coated to match (VB). I think that would look great, BUT the price of an extra set is ridiculous and it's my daily driver so the down time would be unacceptable.
So I am back to G2 Blue or Red.
One of the things I wanted to do, until I figured out the cost and time involved, was to actually get the calipers Powder Coated to match (VB). I think that would look great, BUT the price of an extra set is ridiculous and it's my daily driver so the down time would be unacceptable.
So I am back to G2 Blue or Red.
#5279
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For adjustability (once lowered), you are supposed to elongate the upper holes in the strut so you can pull the top of the rotor out more. The camber bolts are just an easy way around that, but I don't like the 75 lb-ft max torque on those bolts when factory is supposed to be 148 lb-ft. That's why I took them out.
For our Ultra Lite springs, we could just slap the stock bolts back in and camber would still be in the window (you saw that for yourself).
I did this for piece of mind - now I know each side is identical, within the camber window, and will never move.
Here are some pics:
Attachment 16690
Are the proper amount of threads showing, inspector?
Attachment 16691