Ponies on The Run (Again)
6/23/06, 03:11 PM
#1441
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Well, the insulation can move a little left, right, forward, and back with those "christmas tree" fasteners.
As far as checking alignment, if you pop it into the ball socket with the upper 2 TB bolts removed, that should give you a pretty good idea as to where the scoop will end up.
As far as checking alignment, if you pop it into the ball socket with the upper 2 TB bolts removed, that should give you a pretty good idea as to where the scoop will end up.
6/23/06, 08:15 PM
#1442
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Well, I want the measurement without the trim ring, so I don't thing Daryl can do that. I measured 11 3/16" on mine.
You're SPOT on!
Note: Top edge of ruler is right on the CL.
You can rest peacefully now.
6/23/06, 09:55 PM
#1443
Okay guys, here the latest.
Ran into a few problem with the fitment of the shroud, all on the drivers side.
I've read several posts regarding on what to do when fitting it with a C&L, but apparently I'm the first around here that is attempting to fit a Shaker with a K&N CAI.
Problems
1. The MAF sensor on the air duct rides bigtime against the fwd side of the shroud (see circled area), making it impossible to attach the electrical harness plug. I contemplated for several minutes on putting the stock OEM box back on, but decided to go for it and make it work!
2. The lower 'half-moon' cut-out rides the lower radiator hose bigtime. As sharp as that plastic is, it was destined to cut right into that radiator hose. (See arrow)
3. The K&N tube diameter seems to be a bit larger going into the TB, thus causing the center section of the shroud to be pressed on top of the duct to TB sleeve, making access to the 2 bolts that much more difficult.
Solution:
1. We cut a 2" hole into the corner section of where the MAF was riding the shroud. Eliminated the riding condition while providing access to the harness plug. Finished off the rough edges of the cut-out with a Dremel.
2. We layed out an additional 1/2" opening around that half-moon creating plenty of room for the radiator hose from not touching the shroud. Area was masked off and took a Dremel to it.
3. (Drivers side) While lifting the front of the shroud slightly (only to get the socket and bolt in) and using a slight downward pressure on the K&N duct, I managed to get that bolt started. The air duct started to creep out from the sleeve, so I pushed it back against the TB, hopefully will not slip in the future.
Passenger side bolt is not done yet; called it a night.
Pre-fit results:
It looks good! As it sits now, I temporarily layed the upper trim ring on the hood and without measuring (used the calibrated eyeball method), the gap between the scoop and the trim ring looks fairly even (side to side).
Forward and aft gap also looks acceptable, showing a bit larger gap on the rear compared to the front.
Tomorrow's plan is to complete the installation, hopefully.
Pics with the Shaker were taken before we addressed the MAF riding condition, which is why it's high and leaning towards the passenger side.
Ran into a few problem with the fitment of the shroud, all on the drivers side.
I've read several posts regarding on what to do when fitting it with a C&L, but apparently I'm the first around here that is attempting to fit a Shaker with a K&N CAI.
Problems
1. The MAF sensor on the air duct rides bigtime against the fwd side of the shroud (see circled area), making it impossible to attach the electrical harness plug. I contemplated for several minutes on putting the stock OEM box back on, but decided to go for it and make it work!
2. The lower 'half-moon' cut-out rides the lower radiator hose bigtime. As sharp as that plastic is, it was destined to cut right into that radiator hose. (See arrow)
3. The K&N tube diameter seems to be a bit larger going into the TB, thus causing the center section of the shroud to be pressed on top of the duct to TB sleeve, making access to the 2 bolts that much more difficult.
Solution:
1. We cut a 2" hole into the corner section of where the MAF was riding the shroud. Eliminated the riding condition while providing access to the harness plug. Finished off the rough edges of the cut-out with a Dremel.
2. We layed out an additional 1/2" opening around that half-moon creating plenty of room for the radiator hose from not touching the shroud. Area was masked off and took a Dremel to it.
3. (Drivers side) While lifting the front of the shroud slightly (only to get the socket and bolt in) and using a slight downward pressure on the K&N duct, I managed to get that bolt started. The air duct started to creep out from the sleeve, so I pushed it back against the TB, hopefully will not slip in the future.
Passenger side bolt is not done yet; called it a night.
Pre-fit results:
It looks good! As it sits now, I temporarily layed the upper trim ring on the hood and without measuring (used the calibrated eyeball method), the gap between the scoop and the trim ring looks fairly even (side to side).
Forward and aft gap also looks acceptable, showing a bit larger gap on the rear compared to the front.
Tomorrow's plan is to complete the installation, hopefully.
Pics with the Shaker were taken before we addressed the MAF riding condition, which is why it's high and leaning towards the passenger side.
6/23/06, 10:22 PM
#1444
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Originally Posted by TacoBill
Okay guys, here the latest.
Ran into a few problem with the fitment of the shroud, all on the drivers side.
I've read several posts regarding on what to do when fitting it with a C&L, but apparently I'm the first around here that is attempting to fit a Shaker with a K&N CAI.
Problems
1. The MAF sensor on the air duct rides bigtime against the fwd side of the shroud (see circled area), making it impossible to attach the electrical harness plug. I contemplated for several minutes on putting the stock OEM box back on, but decided to go for it and make it work!
2. The lower 'half-moon' cut-out rides the lower radiator hose bigtime. As sharp as that plastic is, it was destined to cut right into that radiator hose. (See arrow)
3. The K&N tube diameter seems to be a bit larger going into the TB, thus causing the center section of the shroud to be pressed on top of the duct to TB sleeve, making access to the 2 bolts that much more difficult.
Solution:
1. We cut a 2" hole into the corner section of where the MAF was riding the shroud. Eliminated the riding condition while providing access to the harness plug. Finished off the rough edges of the cut-out with a Dremel.
2. We layed out an additional 1/2" opening around that half-moon creating plenty of room for the radiator hose from not touching the shroud. Area was masked off and took a Dremel to it.
3. (Drivers side) While lifting the front of the shroud slightly (only to get the socket and bolt in) and using a slight downward pressure on the K&N duct, I managed to get that bolt started. The air duct started to creep out from the sleeve, so I pushed it back against the TB, hopefully will not slip in the future.
Passenger side bolt is not done yet; called it a night.
Pre-fit results:
It looks good! As it sits now, I temporarily layed the upper trim ring on the hood and without measuring (used the calibrated eyeball method), the gap between the scoop and the trim ring looks fairly even (side to side).
Forward and aft gap also looks acceptable, showing a bit larger gap on the rear compared to the front.
Tomorrow's plan is to complete the installation, hopefully.
Pics with the Shaker were taken before we addressed the MAF riding condition, which is why it's high and leaning towards the passenger side.
Ran into a few problem with the fitment of the shroud, all on the drivers side.
I've read several posts regarding on what to do when fitting it with a C&L, but apparently I'm the first around here that is attempting to fit a Shaker with a K&N CAI.
Problems
1. The MAF sensor on the air duct rides bigtime against the fwd side of the shroud (see circled area), making it impossible to attach the electrical harness plug. I contemplated for several minutes on putting the stock OEM box back on, but decided to go for it and make it work!
2. The lower 'half-moon' cut-out rides the lower radiator hose bigtime. As sharp as that plastic is, it was destined to cut right into that radiator hose. (See arrow)
3. The K&N tube diameter seems to be a bit larger going into the TB, thus causing the center section of the shroud to be pressed on top of the duct to TB sleeve, making access to the 2 bolts that much more difficult.
Solution:
1. We cut a 2" hole into the corner section of where the MAF was riding the shroud. Eliminated the riding condition while providing access to the harness plug. Finished off the rough edges of the cut-out with a Dremel.
2. We layed out an additional 1/2" opening around that half-moon creating plenty of room for the radiator hose from not touching the shroud. Area was masked off and took a Dremel to it.
3. (Drivers side) While lifting the front of the shroud slightly (only to get the socket and bolt in) and using a slight downward pressure on the K&N duct, I managed to get that bolt started. The air duct started to creep out from the sleeve, so I pushed it back against the TB, hopefully will not slip in the future.
Passenger side bolt is not done yet; called it a night.
Pre-fit results:
It looks good! As it sits now, I temporarily layed the upper trim ring on the hood and without measuring (used the calibrated eyeball method), the gap between the scoop and the trim ring looks fairly even (side to side).
Forward and aft gap also looks acceptable, showing a bit larger gap on the rear compared to the front.
Tomorrow's plan is to complete the installation, hopefully.
Pics with the Shaker were taken before we addressed the MAF riding condition, which is why it's high and leaning towards the passenger side.
6/24/06, 08:35 AM
#1446
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
I joined up and became a Team Mustang Source member last night. I figured for as much as I use this site and the information I get out of it, it is worth $15 a year.
TMS has saved me way more than 15 bucks in tips and information. Not to mention, giving me the confidence to do my own mods.
6/24/06, 10:40 AM
#1447
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Well, here's my initial test fitment. The ball is in the socket in the rear, but the 2 upper throttle body bolts are not in yet. I do have to press back on the shaker to make the bracket touch the throttle body, so I'm going to move the socket back toward the rear a little bit. I also see that you can slightly move the front of the scoop left and right, and also tilt it if needed to level it.
Bill... the shroud didn't contact the radiator hose at all... maybe 1/8" of clearance all the way around the half-moon. I'll probably try to "lift up" on the shaker as I tighten the TB bolts so it is as far away as possible.
These show the scoop in the hole without the trim ring:
Bill... the shroud didn't contact the radiator hose at all... maybe 1/8" of clearance all the way around the half-moon. I'll probably try to "lift up" on the shaker as I tighten the TB bolts so it is as far away as possible.
These show the scoop in the hole without the trim ring:
6/24/06, 06:18 PM
#1448
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Clear Corner Lens Install Part 1
You will need a stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver, a flat blade screwdriver and a pair of pliers for this install.
I also installed the Stealth Bulbs (No other alternative to this IMO)
I turned the wheel to one side so I could get under the fender well.
There are 5 Clips and 3 screws that must be removed in order to take the wheel well cover off.
Attachment 2964Attachment 2965Attachment 2966Attachment 2967
Once the screws and clips are removed you can remove the wheel well cover.
Attachment 2968
I also installed the Stealth Bulbs (No other alternative to this IMO)
I turned the wheel to one side so I could get under the fender well.
There are 5 Clips and 3 screws that must be removed in order to take the wheel well cover off.
Attachment 2964Attachment 2965Attachment 2966Attachment 2967
Once the screws and clips are removed you can remove the wheel well cover.
Attachment 2968
6/24/06, 06:27 PM
#1449
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Clear Corner Lens Install Part 2
Once the cover is removed you will see the stock lens and the clips that hold it in. There are two squeeze clips on one and and just a tab on the other.
Attachment 2972Attachment 2970Attachment 2971
I used a pair of pliers to squeeze a clip together and gently pried the lens with the flat blade screwdriver, and repeated for the second clip. The lens falls out pretty easy.
I then removed the bulb holders from the lens by twisting and gently pulling. Removed the stock bulbs, replaced them with the Stealth Bulbs and then replaced the bulb holders back into the lenses.
Placed the Tab side of the clear lens back into the slot and pressed the lens back into place making sure the squeeze clips popped through the holes.
Replaced the wheel well cover, clips and screws.
Attachment 2973
Repeat the process for the other side and they look like this when you are done.
Attachment 2974
Attachment 2972Attachment 2970Attachment 2971
I used a pair of pliers to squeeze a clip together and gently pried the lens with the flat blade screwdriver, and repeated for the second clip. The lens falls out pretty easy.
I then removed the bulb holders from the lens by twisting and gently pulling. Removed the stock bulbs, replaced them with the Stealth Bulbs and then replaced the bulb holders back into the lenses.
Placed the Tab side of the clear lens back into the slot and pressed the lens back into place making sure the squeeze clips popped through the holes.
Replaced the wheel well cover, clips and screws.
Attachment 2973
Repeat the process for the other side and they look like this when you are done.
Attachment 2974
6/24/06, 07:07 PM
#1450
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I never did a rear deck write-up on the vinyl stripes so I will do it now.
I once again utilized the same method of finding and marking the centerline as I did on the hood and roof.
Attachment 3453Attachment 2979
Once the center line was marked I started applying the pieces with the emblem cut-out. I placed it as close to the emblem as possible and still maintain the 2" gap. It actually slid under the emblem just a bit. While this piece was still wet I set the third brake light pieces and aligned the two with each other then smoothed them out. This is the only place on the car that I had to trim the pieces as they just would not line up perfectly.
Once the brake and emblem pieces dried, I applied the rear deck pieces. These went on easily and lined up perfectly.
The next step was the spoiler which also went fairly easy and aligned well.
Now for the hardest part so far, the rear valance pieces. These were quite difficult to align without getting wrinkles. (I got two I couldn't get rid of,) I did not use a blow dryer but recommend it for these pieces and the front bumper pieces.
Attachment 2980Attachment 3454
I once again utilized the same method of finding and marking the centerline as I did on the hood and roof.
Attachment 3453Attachment 2979
Once the center line was marked I started applying the pieces with the emblem cut-out. I placed it as close to the emblem as possible and still maintain the 2" gap. It actually slid under the emblem just a bit. While this piece was still wet I set the third brake light pieces and aligned the two with each other then smoothed them out. This is the only place on the car that I had to trim the pieces as they just would not line up perfectly.
Once the brake and emblem pieces dried, I applied the rear deck pieces. These went on easily and lined up perfectly.
The next step was the spoiler which also went fairly easy and aligned well.
Now for the hardest part so far, the rear valance pieces. These were quite difficult to align without getting wrinkles. (I got two I couldn't get rid of,) I did not use a blow dryer but recommend it for these pieces and the front bumper pieces.
Attachment 2980Attachment 3454
6/24/06, 07:19 PM
#1451
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Front Bumper Vinyl Stripe Install.
Same method of marking and masking the Center Line as previous write-ups.
Attachment 2984Attachment 2985
I used a blow dryer to assist in drying the vinyl as well as making it a little more flexible and easy to work with.
I started at top, spraying the solution and aligning the stripes with the curve of the front grille, then moved my way down the front bumper. When you hit the complex curves of the tip of the front bumper is where this install gets tedious and frustrating.
Take your time and work the vinyl with the squeegee and blow dryer. An extra set of hands here is worth their weight in gold.
Let the end hang and dry a little the tuck under the grille if you have any remaining vinyl. Same concept with the piece below the lower grille.
Attachment 2982Attachment 2983
Same method of marking and masking the Center Line as previous write-ups.
Attachment 2984Attachment 2985
I used a blow dryer to assist in drying the vinyl as well as making it a little more flexible and easy to work with.
I started at top, spraying the solution and aligning the stripes with the curve of the front grille, then moved my way down the front bumper. When you hit the complex curves of the tip of the front bumper is where this install gets tedious and frustrating.
Take your time and work the vinyl with the squeegee and blow dryer. An extra set of hands here is worth their weight in gold.
Let the end hang and dry a little the tuck under the grille if you have any remaining vinyl. Same concept with the piece below the lower grille.
Attachment 2982Attachment 2983
6/24/06, 10:51 PM
#1453
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Bill... the shroud didn't contact the radiator hose at all... maybe 1/8" of clearance all the way around the half-moon. I'll probably try to "lift up" on the shaker as I tighten the TB bolts so it is as far away as possible.
These show the scoop in the hole without the trim ring:
These show the scoop in the hole without the trim ring:
Here's a couple pics of mine with the Shaker installed complete.
Note: Shaker assembly was pushed all the way towards the drivers side before the 2 TB bolts were tightened and torqued.
6/24/06, 11:32 PM
#1454
Shaker Update:
I'm 99.5% complete!
Only things left to do is plug the original MAF wire hole in the shroud (which I didn't use) and to install some type of grommet around that 2" hole I cut (into the shroud).
On my Cold Air ducting, I have it pointing towards my cone filter. The duct feels a bit flimsy due to the fact that it's not being supported. I may fabricate some type of angle strap off the OEM airbox bolt mount (in fender) to offer some type of support for that duct.
All in all, the install wasn't too difficult. Total time was around 10 hours (spread over 3 days). The only snag I came across was from the K&N CAI, but after some head scratching, a solution was found.
Thanks Daryl & Tom! Best mod you two talked me into!
Here's some pics and a fun video (Warning! 23mb file) my son shot on our first test drive with the Shaker. Gotta love it!
I'm 99.5% complete!
Only things left to do is plug the original MAF wire hole in the shroud (which I didn't use) and to install some type of grommet around that 2" hole I cut (into the shroud).
On my Cold Air ducting, I have it pointing towards my cone filter. The duct feels a bit flimsy due to the fact that it's not being supported. I may fabricate some type of angle strap off the OEM airbox bolt mount (in fender) to offer some type of support for that duct.
All in all, the install wasn't too difficult. Total time was around 10 hours (spread over 3 days). The only snag I came across was from the K&N CAI, but after some head scratching, a solution was found.
Thanks Daryl & Tom! Best mod you two talked me into!
Here's some pics and a fun video (Warning! 23mb file) my son shot on our first test drive with the Shaker. Gotta love it!
6/25/06, 12:57 AM
#1455
Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
Clear Corner Lens Install
Sounds like the install went pretty smooth and easy (compared to the Shaker!)
And good job finishing up the write-up on the BSM stripes.
6/25/06, 08:19 AM
#1458
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Which fragrance did you choose with your floor mat order, Bill?
Didn't want it anyways, I like the 'new car' smell better! 
$32.50 delivered ($20 plus $12.50 shipping), not too bad.
6/25/06, 08:26 AM
#1459
Originally Posted by st06vert
Dang thats nice bill! Bill please slow down on the mods and let us catch up.
Saleen Short Throw Shifter just came in and the MRT louvers are on the way. Look for these write-ups (including fabulous pictures) in the very near future.
6/25/06, 08:44 AM
#1460
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On the bottom of the floor mat auction it says:
Included with your purchase is a complementary bottle of car air freshener. Your choice of 14 different fragrances.
- Peach Slice
- Dreamcicle
- Sweet Vanilla
- Leather
- Spearmint
- Lemon Twist
- Summer Breeze (very light, flowery)
- Coco Banana (think sunscreen)
- Bubbleliscious (bubble gum)
- Mulberry
- Apple Slice
- Baby Fresh (baby powder)
- Cherry
- Strawberry