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Mustangs Coast to Coast
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You really should only need pads Nathan. Do all four corners with pads and save on the rotors. Like Charlie said, unless they are warped, which you would feel, or you had metal on metal you'll be fine just replacing the pads.
The other rotors are 90% for show. I'd say if you wanted to stop better the tire and the pad are the keys. The drilled rotors really are just for show as the slots are the only improved rotors and thats just from a standpoint of continued braking like at a track.
The other rotors are 90% for show. I'd say if you wanted to stop better the tire and the pad are the keys. The drilled rotors really are just for show as the slots are the only improved rotors and thats just from a standpoint of continued braking like at a track.
NTTAWWT
I don't want to leave it sitting anywhere too long though. The notch screams for attention and that's not always a good thing.
I think the article I posted said the rears need a special tool to compress the piston. I'll see if I can get something when I go to get the pads.
Later Dirk...
I think the article I posted said the rears need a special tool to compress the piston. I'll see if I can get something when I go to get the pads.
Later Dirk...
the only special tool you need is a vice grip honestly.
here's the deal, jack up the car, take the wheels off. Only do one tire at a time, that way if you can't remember how something went in, you can reference the other side.
You'll need to take the two bolts off to get the caliper loose, pull it off the rotor/pads and set it aside on something so that it's not hanging by the brake line. Next pull off the pads, and be careful, there are small clips that go on either end of the pad that you need to put back so it's snug in there. That being said, on the brakes I had, where they were dipped in paint, I needed to file off some paint to get the pad back in. It should be just loose enough that you can freely move it in and out, but still snug in the slots (you'll figure out what I'm talking about once you tear into it). Make sure you put some brake pad grease on the back of the brake pads *the article puts it on the braking side of the pad?, and the ones I have had a paper backing on two of the pads that go on the outside of the rotor. The other two pads dont have that backing, and go on the inside.
To put the caliper back on, you'll need a pair of c clamps. You want to tighten them on the pistons evenly (if you dont, you'll just push brake fluid into the other piston and never get it in). You want to have the cap off your brake fluid resivoir, and place some shop towels around it incase you push some fluid out, keep a very close eye on it, because it eats paint. When you've done both sides, put the cap back on the BF resivoir, and pump the brakes a few times to make sure you're getting pressure back.
for the backs, make sure the ebrake is off, take the caliper off just like the front, pad replacement is the same, but you push the piston back in by rotating it, counterclockwise, I believe, but make sure you check. You'll want to again have the cap off and go slowly so you dont overflow, which you probably will, and just get a turkey baster or something like that to get the fluid out.
When you have everything buttoned backup, check the brakes once or twice at a low speed to make sure they're working, then follow the break in procedure. I think for mine, it was 7-10 stops from 35mph, and 4-5 from 45mph, then a 15 minute cool off.
Last edited by StangMahn; 7/24/10 at 03:23 PM.
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Thanks David! I'll try it later tonight.
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Is it ok to just change the rears? The front pads are fine.
NTTAWWT
you could, but it might just be better to do all 4 if you can afford to, since you usually run through fronts at close to twice as often, so I hear.
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If you're not having any issues with the front, leave them alone. Over the last 10 years or so on multiple cars, I've run into problems getting ****ty brake parts at random (rotors and pads). Some sets would be great and last a long time, and the very next one be crap in 20K miles.
So, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. The new set you put on may give you problems sooner than the ones you have on the front already.
So, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. The new set you put on may give you problems sooner than the ones you have on the front already.
I will buy Jack Stands!!!
All this talk has me thinking, I need to replace the trucks front brakes for sure, and I have no idea how to even check drums. Anyway, do you have to bleed the system when replacing the rotors along with pads?
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No, you only bleed them to get air out of the system. Changing the pads, rotors etc. never opens the system up to any air.
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Ok good. I already spent enough on brakes today. Ill change them when the time comes.
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I'll have to keep a better eye on them.
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Stupid trees.
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A what?