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Manual Driving question downshifting to brake

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Old 6/8/07, 11:54 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Tony Alonso
An oldie but a goodie - see here for article
My favorite part of that article >>

By downshifting you're always in the appropriate gear for the speed you're traveling. Suppose you were a brakes-only type of guy doing 40 miles per hour in fourth gear. You see a red light ahead and brake down to 20. Suddenly in the rearview mirror you notice a runaway concrete truck bearing down on you. You want to accelerate out of harm's way, but you lose precious time shifting from fourth to second and get creamed. Whereas if you'd been downshifting and were in second already, you could accelerate immediately and plow into the car in front of you.
Old 6/10/07, 06:29 AM
  #122  
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...and then get creamed by the Cement Truck anyway
Old 6/24/07, 01:13 PM
  #123  
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Does down shifting waist more gas???
Old 6/24/07, 02:24 PM
  #124  
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omfg i hate this thread, i unsubscribed and am still getting emails about it.
Old 3/11/18, 01:55 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
That is what I do, and why I do it. If/When an idiot makes a dumb move in front of you and you have to move fast, last thing you want to do is fumble for the right gear.
Of course the exhaust sounds good while you are doing it, but that shouldn't be the "reason" it is done.
When downshifting, is this right.. 1. clutch, 2. Brake, 3. Shift *4th to 3rd gear*. ( do i have to tap throttle *blip?) ..and do i use the btake as downshift each gear....
Old 3/11/18, 02:16 PM
  #126  
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My last car was a 99 Saturn SC2 "sport coupe" that I bought new and drove for almost 18 years and 237,000 miles. I downshifted all the time, never bothered with heel and toe, and the clutch was still working just fine when I finally got rid of it. And I only needed new brake pads twice.
Old 3/11/18, 05:54 PM
  #127  
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As quite a few posts state, when it’s done properly, downshifting is the way to go. Proper technique is to try to match revs (blip the throttle) as you are about to release the clutch pedal. This reduces the strain on the numerous bits which makes those bits (clutch, motor mounts, throw out bearing etc.) last longer. The last time I replaced a clutch on a car was my 88 Shadow Turbo which I autocrossed from week one. That car was 13 years old and had 100,000 miles which were mostly city along with the events. My 95 Civic had 300,000 on the original clutch before the rest of the car rusted away.
Primarily, it’s a matter of always being in control. If you were in an auto, you’d always have a full drivetrain connection so why not with the manual? And it sounds good.
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