jahnnee5

I installed the Innovate wideband today. I used a VentPod for the guage. I have the two pod SOS pillar but I didnt want to spend that much money to get the three pod unit.
I think it came out pretty good and it doesnt seem to effect the flow of air on that vent too much.

SONICBOOST

Sweet setup! What kind of supercharger are you running?

jahnnee5

Thanks, I'm running the ProCharger w/12lb boost.

withinavoid

I hadn't heard of this product before. I like it, looks great.

05YellowGT

I've had the gauge on my car for several years , got it long before my supercharger since I always play with my tune. I see you put your controller on the fire wall , I put mine in the drivers side wheel well , there's a little ledge there with OEM stuff that I strapped it to. I like how you put the sensor where the OEM one is , where did you find that bung for two sensors ? I put my mine on the upward sloping part pipe ahead of that ...

RRRoamer

I'm with Steve! I would love to see better pictures of the bungs. Did you have to drop the H-pipe to get the bung installed?

Faber

when you install a wideband do you have to put it that close to the heads, or will it work fine further back? I am going to get one soon, but I have headers so it would have to go in one of the collectors.

jahnnee5

It just has to be PRE-cat

jahnnee5

Here is a close pic.
I just added one single bung. From my previous pic it does look like its one piece, but they are at about a 45 degree angle and one is slightly ahead of the other.
I moved the OE sensor to the new location because there was an issue with the wideband fitting in, but it had no problem fitting into the OE bung. I guess the hole he made for the new bung was just a hair to small (the sensor end of the wideband is almost as big as the threads on it).
He did have to drop the h-pipe to get it welded in. It took him all of 35 minutes and $30 to do the job. He did mis-judge the placement of the bung a little and had to cut the stud in the manifold to allow for install of the sensor, but it won't be a problem.

Faber

What if I have dog?

jahnnee5

You can take him to the shop with you and have them weld it as close to his OE bung as possible.

Faber

But what if the dog does not light bright light?

RRRoamer

John,

Now I am even MORE confused than before! From looking at your pics, you have the WB sensor installed in the lefthand (aka: driver's side) exhaust pipe. At it is VERY clear that the factory O2 sensor bung was located on the H-pipe before the cat.

The part that is confusing me so much is that when I lock at my car, the O2 sensor bung is in the LH exhaust manifold and NOT the H-pipe. The passenger side O2 sensor IS located on the H-pipe.

All in all, mine is going to be a REAL pain in the *** to get too. How in the world did you even GET those pictures? I think I have about 1" of clearance between the back of the engine and the firewall. No way I could get a camera down there!

One other question, where did you pull the power from? I know where the fuel pump relay and fuse are (In the BEC next to the ECU), but I can't figure out a way to get to the bottom of it without breaking something, so I gave up on that idea. I guess I'll have to dig into the harness and find the fuel pump power lead going to the back of the car.

I think I know where I am going to ground everything. If you look at the passenger side shock tower, there is a thick bracket welded to the top of it. One of the battery grounds attaches there (It's a Y cable that attaches at the shock tower, the battery and the engine block) and there are two more threaded holes in it that would be perfect for grounding the WD unit.

jahnnee5

I'm sorry.... I never stated, but I have a V6. I'm sure thats why the exhaust is different on the driver side and also why I was able to get my camera down there.
As far as the power, I ran the controller wires down through the drivers fender well and through the firewall.
The power comes from the fuse panel on the passenger side using an add-a-circuit and I grounded to the steering column.
I added the famous fuse panel picture that has been posted numerous times on this site.
If I can be of any help PM me.

RRRoamer

Ah!!!! That makes SO much more sense! If I had been thinking, I would have been able to figure out that it had to be a different engine that what I have.

I've made some progress today. I physically installed the LC-1 (minus 02 sensor) and got it wired to power and ground. I'll need to take some pictures sometime and post them.

To get power, I ended up taking apart the BEC and then I soldered a wire right on the back of the connector for the fuel pump relay. The wire goes in the BEC just like the factory wires do, so it looks very good.

For ground, I used the two threaded holes in the bracket on the passenger side shock tower. They are right next to the Y cable that ties the frame ground, battery ground, and engine ground together, so I don't think I could get a better ground source.

Now I just need to run the other wires inside (I have to go in through the passenger side, but if I remember, there is a decent gromet over there behind the wheel well liner), replace the passenger side O2 sensor with the WB one and splice the NB output from the LC-1 into my factory harness to replace the NB sensor I'm going to remove.

But that will have to wait for another day!

RRRoamer

And even more progress! It is basically completed, with the exception that I need to reinstall my SCT X-Cal / calibration cable. I soldered to the wrong pins on the DIN socket, so I got to pull the trim plate out that had the LED, calibration button and DIN socket attached (that little plate that snaps in inside the console). Thankfully, I had used a header to connect the cable to the LC-1, so it was very easy to pull it out to rework it.

I can give a bit of advise on the GT. The passenger side O2 sensor is MUCH easier to get to than the drivers side sensor. But to do it, you will have to yank out the battery and battery tray. It only takes three bolts to pull the tray, so there is NO reason to even think of leaving it in place and working around it. Also, there just isn't any room to swing a wrench on the O2 sensor from the top. But with the car jacked up (jack stands!!!), it is fairly easy to get it loosened up from below.

Because I didn't want to drop my H-pipe and have a bung welded in, I had to replace the NB signal to the ECU with NB output on the LC-1. But I also wanted the ECU to be happy witht he NB heater circuit, so I left it connected and simply cut the signal wire on the old NB sensor (NOT the harness!) and connected that to analog 1 on the LC-1.

Because of how the cabling was rounted and the fact that I wanted both analog signals to be fed to my X-Cal for datalogging, I ran an additional wire from the sensor along the LC-1's cable into the cab. At the header block, when I attached the spade connector to the yellow analog 1 wire, I also put the end of the new wire in the same connector. This brought the analog 1 signal into the cab to the header AND it fed it back to the engine bay to feed to the ECU through the stock harness. Because this is just an NB signal, I'm not concerned about any small voltage losses caused by the extra wire. Plus, the currents are extremely small, so any losses would be trivial anyway.

My other concern was what to do with the stock NB O2 sensor. It had to be plugged into the factory harness, but I couldn't just leave it dangling! Plus, I was also concerned that if I didn't give it an outside source of heat that eventually the heater would fail and that would cause a MIL to be set by the ECU.

My solution was to use a large metal worm hose clamp to firmly clamp the sensor to the manifold. The theory being that the heat from the manifold will be conducted into the sensor to take the load off the heater, but it won't get so hot that it could cause other problems. I just hope I'm right on this...

I ended up doing my install in three different sessions. Session one was to install the LC-1 itself and get the power and grounds attached to suitable homes. The O2 sensor stayed in the box. Remember, it doesn't hurt the LC-1 to have power with out any O2 sensor attached, but it DOES hurt the O2 sensor to be installed with no power to the LC-1!

The second session was fairly short. It just involved running cable from the engine bay, into the passenger front wheel well (behind the splash shield) and through the extra nipple on the large wiring harness bushing and into the cab.

To do this, you really need to pull of the wheel and then remove the rear splash shield. When that is out, the small drain port in the inner fender (right below the battery tray) is completely apparent and you can see (and get to) the large bushing. Feed the cable through the drain port to the wheel well then cut off the tip of the nipple to open it up and feed the cable through the hole. It will come out in the passenger side foot well just above the bottom of the glove box level right were the factory wiring bundle comes out.

The last session was the most critical in that my car wouldn't work until I had everything installed and working correctly! I had to pull the O2 sensor, install the WB sensor and the splice the analog out to feed the signal to the ECU as well as get the LED and cal wire installed and functional. It was slow (I spent about 6 hours just on this session), but not that hard. I was also being fairly **** and soldering all my connections then putting adhesive heat shrink tubing over all of them, so that definitely slowed things down.

All in all, I have to say that installing this was easier than I thought it would be. Breaking it up into small "bites" helped me get started with the project. When I looked at the whole job, it seemed like a lot to do (a good source of power and ground had me scratching my head for quite a while. I don't like the "add a fuse" things...).

The fact that this is my daily driver didn't help either. Once I had the LC-1 physically installed and powered, it was much easier to schedule the next session and then complete this install.

Should I mention that I have head this thing sitting in a box for around two years now??? Probably not...

Anyway, I'll go take some pictures today to give everyone a better feel for what I did. I get windy, but sometimes even that is not enough to get the point across!!!

John, thanks for starting this thread! That is what give me the impetous to get get off my butt and get this thing finished!

RRRoamer

Ok. I finally got some pictures taken.

First, here is a shot (sorry, a bit out of focus) of how I did my grounds. Notice that the heater ground has it's own ground lug AND the connector is soldered as well as crimped:


The next shot shows how I mounted the LC-1 itself. It is just zip-tied to an existing cable at the firewall on the passenger side of the engine:


I get the power from the BEC from the output of the fuel pump relay. This relay is on any time the engine is in the run or start position, so it is perfect for this job. I pulled the factory wire and pin out of the connector block and soldered the red LC-1 power feed to the base of the pin before I reinserted it the pin back in the block. The photo only shows the power wire going into the BEC:



Here is an wider shot of the grounds and LC-1. It gives a better perspective of where it is mounted and how the cables are routed:


To connect the LC-1 to the 9-pin DIN socket (for the SCT X-Cal2), it's free-air calibration button and LED, I mounted a four position dual row header block to the air conditioning pleum. This is on the passenger side on the console side just above the carpet. Needless to say, you can't see this at all from inside the car unless you are laying on your back with your head stuffed under the dash (take a while guess how I know...)! You can also see the LC-1's serial in and serial out cables just to the left of the header block. Easy to get to without them being in the way.




And finally, a shot inside my center console showing how I mounted the 9-pin DIN socket, free-air calibration switch and the LED indicator light. They are connected to the header block with a length of CAT5 cable (the white cable in the above picture):



And upclose:



Well, that's how I installed mine.

Bandit1

Thanks RRRoamer.This is one helpful thread here.I don't suppose we could make it complete and show somehow what the wire matchups(solders) are for the 9 pin-din?

RRRoamer

Not at this time Bandit1! The harness is installed and wrapped up in electrical tape, more for strain relief and wire management than anything, but it would be a huge pain to remove for a picture.

But, I'm currently having some issues with my free air cal getting screwed up when I attach the X-Cal2, so there is a very good chance I will be pulling that harness out this weekend to ohm it out and verify everything. If I do that, I'll take some pics and upload them for you.

jahnnee5

Here is a link from the Innovate site that is very helpful.....

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...2_tutorial.php