2005-2009 Mustang Information on The S197 {Gen1}

Idling Problem / Constant Repairs - 05’ 4.0L V6

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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 07:37 PM
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Idling Problem / Constant Repairs - 05’ 4.0L V6

I have recently got an oil change and replaced the following:
- E3 Spark Plugs
- Motorcraft Fuel Filter
- Air Filter
- Spark Plug Wires
- Coil
- EGR Valve
- Fuel Pressure Sensor
And even bought some mass air flow cleaner and cleaned my MAF sensor and the car still idles very rough and I have the following codes:
- P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
- P0108 Barometric Sensor Circuit High Input
- P0171 Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 1)
- P0174 Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 2)
- P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Curcuit Low Input
- P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor High Input
- P0300 Random Misfire
- P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
- P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor High Input
- P0300 Random Misfire
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 05:57 AM
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wow thats a heck of a list.
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 09:25 AM
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Yep, it sucks, it said Bank 1 and bank 2 and when I use to own my 06’ Passat, Bank 1 and bank 2 usually referred to O2 sensor so I ordered some and thy should be here tomorrow
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Old Jan 23, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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Were these codes there before you did all this work? If so Clear all codes and start again. Also recheck and make sure you reconnected any sensor connectors you removed to do your repairs. List the codes here again.
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Old Jan 23, 2018 | 10:12 AM
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The code for the O2 sensors doesn't mean they're bad, it means they're reading a bad condition... Replacing them won't do anything.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 03:23 PM
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I cleared the codes and my car ran somewhat better but then the codes came back up and the car still idles weird at times but now its not constant
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 08:38 PM
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What codes came back?
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 06:31 PM
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So far no codes have came up, I have bought a cold air and was running okay but sometimes ran rough such as idle and misfire from running too Lean, now I put my stock one back on today and my car is a little better, went from 12-13 to 15 mpg but the car idles at park under the 0 and when I go to turn my car off, the gauge needle tries to force itself down to it ticks and shakes 3 times
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 06:51 PM
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Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 07:24 PM
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Actually that’s what I was going to ask earlier if anyone knew what hoses would lead to and cause a car to idle? And where are the most common places to check, btw when I have my intake off, my throttle body was relatively clean so that’s one issue marked off and I bought two O2 sensor replacements and installed a couple days ago and it helped the issue but still idles rough
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Old Jan 31, 2018 | 11:58 PM
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I don't know much about the v6 but you might want to try these two tests. Seems like a couple of common vacuum problems with the 4.0l.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...d-P0174-page-3

page 1 and 2 also have some good info.
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 01:05 AM
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I checked out the link and will do that tomorrow when my car cools down and may possibly put my old spark plugs back in because I got the E3 sparks but people talked about the gap concern could cause a misfire but I doubt it with the e3 because people on here have had goodluck with them and plus my car was running amazing when I installed them then a week down the road everything started to go wrong
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 07:38 AM
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Update, my car was getting 13ish to the gallon wit the cold air and now it went down to 11 to the gallon with the stock one back on. yesterday I was driving and it was hot outside, my car every time I pushed down the pedal, my car would shake and feel very sluggish like there is a **** ton of fuel being dumped as if my car is drunk or a heavy drinker but when I go full foot down to make the revs higher, then it balances it self out again and then it goes back to that weird feeling but right now it’s cold (6:37 Am) and no problems, I mean a few little idles here and there but runs better...?
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 07:43 PM
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So my idle goes below the very first tick or dash on the gauge... well okay basically when the car is off, where the needle sits at, when running and warmed up, the cars needle is below the position when off and it bounces around there, I heard that a battery and alternator could cause a 05 mustang 4.0 to idle very bad? Is this true
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 05:48 AM
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no after market tune in there that you might not know about?
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 06:28 AM
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The car has jba headers, and had a sct badge on the dash but I took it off and I also disconnected my negative and my whole battery sometimes to clear the engine light and people said if it did have a tune then that would erase it
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 07:10 AM
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Disconnecting the battery does not erase a tune.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 07:32 AM
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Well I mean I doubt it would be a tune issue if it had one or not because it drove mint for the first month and two I had it
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Mxbee
. . . I have bought a cold air and was running okay but sometimes ran rough such as idle and misfire from running too Lean, . . .
It sounds like there could be a lot of things going on here. if you are making modifications without making the needed adjustments to the tune that are needed for those modifications, then that might explain a lot of the problems.

It will be very hard for use to help you sort this out because it sounds like there might be a lot more to this story.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Mxbee
now I put my stock one back on today and my car is a little better, went from 12-13 to 15 mpg but the car idles at park under the 0 and when I go to turn my car off, the gauge needle tries to force itself down to it ticks and shakes 3 times
I put my stock one back on, and it still had the problems before the cold air, I decided to put 87 vs 89 which I usually get but just wanna test it because when I put a different octane my car feels weird right away with the mixture and then balances it self out
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