06MustangGT Todd

My 2006 Ford Mustang GT, 4.6L V8, is having a hard time getting torque. It has 124,000 miles. There is a constant, faint clicking noise coming from underneath the car. The rev sounds deeper and definitely more rough when I give it gas and not as much power as normal. Also, sometimes Ill be driving and while giving it gas, it sounds like something in or around the transmission slips, I lose all power, then re engages. When driving for more than 30min, tran gets warm. Is this my clutch? Transmission? Please any input or knowledge would help. Thank you!

Glenn

I would say its time for a clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.

Paris MkVI

And another thought - Ford recommends a fairly extensive tuneup at 100k miles. I had to do mine at 85k because drive-ability and power was definitely down.

Have you had that service? If not I recommend it highly. This is a Ford item, NOT a dealer recommendation. Dealers will tack on all sorts of other things. Just get the Ford recommendation done (IMHO).

That service stop made a quantum difference. She drove like she was new again.

With that said, your symptoms do certainly suggest the transmission must be looked at too.

houtex

S2kpuddydad

Look at the clutch master cylinder/brake master combo and the slave cylinder. Maybe contaminated, a leak, or air in the line. If you get what feels like the clutch slipping sometimes this can be your issue.
The noises you hear I'm not so sure about, good luck

Glenn

what exactly does the Ford tune up deal consist of?

houtex

Actually, it's not 100k, but you could do that too... it's just an oil change.

The 120K service is pretty big list... Page 38 of this:

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Fo.../06frdmg3e.pdf

Even then, it's a whole lot of 'inspecting' and not much actual 'doing' unless the inspection shows it needs doing.

Heh.

The coolant should be replaced at 100K though. As well as the spark plugs. Past that, though, it's... well, a normal oil change kind of thing. If it looks jinky (belts, hoses, etc) then replace it.

I'd throw in a MAF cleaning, and a throttle body cleaning, of course, and a re-learn for the computer.

mrkabc

I'm with Houtex. Don't let the dealer charge you a grip of money for "inspecting".


OP, you'll most likely need to get your clutch changed. While the trans is out have the input shaft bearings inspected, those seem to be a weak point in this transmission. Mine makes a whirring sound, and will need to be replaced when I do my clutch sometime later this year.


Good luck! From what I have read changing out the clutch is no fun. Where oh where is Taco Bill when he is needed??

tbear853

The transmission getting warm after 30 minutes is perfectly normal and should be expected.


It takes x amount of torque to move the car. In low gear, the transmission multiplies torque from the input shaft and transmits it to the driveshaft. That's why it takes less torque from the engine to move the car or affect a speed change in low gear than it does in 4th or 5th. The clutch is capable of transmitting a limited amount of torque. A worn clutch that has a thinner lining that lets the PP springs relax some can transmit less torque than when it was new with thick lining that compressed PP springs more making for more clamping power.


Translated to our cars, a worn clutch will reach a point where it will still hold and transmit say 100 Ft Lbs. torque to the transmission. It transmits this 100 Ft Lbs. input shaftin lower gears because the transmission multiplies that torque (3.38 times in 1st and 2.00 times in 2nd) ... so that enough is transmitted to the rear axle (3.31 or 3.55 or 3.73, etc.) to exceed the tires adhesion on the roadway and wheel spin occurs before clutch slip. The clutch thusly is never transmitting more torque than the tires can use.
In higher gears, like 4th or 5th, there is much no torque multiplication (1.00:1 in 4th)or even less torque on the output shaft (like 5th with 0.68:1 so only 68% is available at drive shaft) and so the tires adhesion is never exceeded ... and then the worn clutch's reduced adhesion on the flywheel is exceeded as the engine makes maybe 200 Ft Lbs. at the same rpm (and more as the revs climb) .... and clutch slip occurs. Abuse it after that and it can rapidly go up in smoke and require a tow.


Tie a string to a toy block and pull it all you want, the block will move before you break the string.
Tie same string to a brick and pull it .... and it breaks fast ....


Yeah ..... your clutch is about shot.