PDOGG74

Hello I really need some help to understand what happened and or what went wrong. I have a Mach1 that is lowered using the Eibach Sportline springs (red colored ones), stock shocks and struts (Tokicko) and stock quad shocks. Plus my tires are 275/17 front and 315/17 rear, there is no tire rub in front and no tire rub on the rear passenger tire. However there was a little tire rub on rear driver side tire but nothing to right home about. In the beginning when I first used this setup (stock shocks, struts, quad shocks and lowering springs) there was no rub at all it started happening gradually, at first I thought I was hitting the corners to hard. But heard the tire rub when I first start off or drive up on a raised entrance. After doing an inspection underneath my car I realized my shocks, struts and quad shocks were done, you can see they were all moist and greasy looking from the inside escaping out. I put on Strange Engineering adjustable shocks / struts and KYB quad shocks. The front no tire rub and no tire rub on rear passenger tire however, the rear driver tire went from little rub to finder slicing into my tire and cutting off long large chucks of rubber right were the tread meets the sidewall. The finder is not resting on the rear tire but only makes contact when I make a hard right turn, drive up on a raised entrance (but now really loud and grinding) or do a WOT acceleration, if I make a hard left turn there is no tire rub on driver side and no tire rub on passenger side. Plus my car looks lopsided, meaning there is a slight lean on the driver side compared to the passenger side and my rear driver tire looks like it almost flush with the fender when before it wasn't, until I added the new suspension parts and the passenger rear tire looks normal as far as spacing next to the finder. Has this happened to anyone or did someone have the same problems as me, you would think I was in a bad accident or went sideways and hit a curb, when neither of it has never occurred. When I go forward or backward the car drives a in a straight line, meaning no crabbing and there is no vibration as if something is out of line. Plus the tread wear on both rear tires are even from inside to outside of the tire, rear tires looks better than my front tires where the tread is wearing down more on the inside than on the outside unevenly due to me lowering it and not using castor and camber plates. But once again no tire rub in the front what so ever, only on the rear driver side tire. Please help I thought I was going to make right better, but wounded up making worse. Just to let you know the shocks and strut work, no more extreme bouncing, however finder is now cutting into tire and car looks lopsided as if a very large person was sitting on the driver seat or I had a bunch weight in my truck but only on the driver side making it look lopsided. I apologize if I am over descriptive, trying my best to describe what is going and what it looks like, please help.

StangMahn

Rear end might need to be moved a hair to the passenger side.

This thread may be a jump off point
https://www.svtperformance.com/forum...r-axle.922315/

PDOGG74

LAST UPDATE, UNLESS SOMEONE HAS A QUESTION OR DIFFERENT SOLUTION:
I conducted extensive research scouring other forums, Google and found my answer. This has always been a problem with the SN95, I found out that a lot of Mustang owners during the SN95 era has the same exact problem and when you using certain lowering springs made it worst. In short, Ford knows about this problem and stated the car is still within tolerance and safe. The best three solutions to fix this problem is using a spacer in the springs (like what I am doing), putting an air ride system suspension and last but not least (I don't recommend it) cutting the springs by 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch on the taller side to help even it out. Now some SN95 do not have the problem and pretty much even Steven all the way around, however the majority of SN 95 does have it, save your money because its not the springs, quad shocks, shocks, upper and lower control arms and torque box. I am not saying don't check out your suspension, please do I have a 170,000 miles on my car and this problem forced me to put in all new shocks, struts, springs (put them on around the 115,000 mile mark and they were used), and quad shocks. I have to admit the ride is better and I have to get used to it, if you have as many miles as me and you daily drive it, do yourself a favor and change out the stock suspension parts. Oh if you go with strange shocks and KYB quad shocks, you are going to have a little rub either get thinner quad shocks or put on new OEM quad shocks they have thinner bar that gives you more clearance. Thank you everyone for your help, appreciate and Happy Holidays.

cntchds

I'd seriously recommend reconsidering your tire size. Unless you need 315's because you are putting down massively higher power than stock, your ride is likely worse because of the tires. Tramlining or understeer is also probably a lot worse with the super wide rear tires.

As for the other problem, you're right. It probably isn't the end of the world to have one side slightly higher than the other. A spacer (spring isolator) likely would help you out. I'd definitely recommend something poly urethane instead of rubber to make sure it lasts a long time.

Recentering the axle could potentially help as well, but, despite Dave's best efforts, the link above is for a newer Mustang with a panhard bar. There is no adjustment with the stock compliance four-link straight axle.

EF1

I am not familiar with the SN95, but can you use an adjustable pan hard bar to recenter the rear axle like on the S197 cars?

cntchds

Yes, you can. It's just fairly expensive if you want to install it. The S197 came stock with a three link and panhard bar. Its main purpose was to control the lateral movement of the axle, and it can also be used to center the axle to the car.

In the SN95 the four link controlled the centering using two upper control arms that are mounted wide on the body and triangulate down to mounts on the differential housing. This is not adjustable. Instead, it is purposefully overconstrained to ensure the axle can't move laterally which would induce bind due to the geometry of the upper control arms. This was mitigated slightly by very soft compliance bushings which ate up a lot of that stress to improve fatigue life of the control arms.

To change from the four link to a three link you need to install not just a panhard bar, but also a torque arm. The upper control arms control two degrees of freedom - lateral movement and rotation about the Y axis (imagine a line through the hubs going through the differential). If you want to install a panhard bar, it would control the lateral (side to side) movement, but you would also need something to control rotation. That is left up to the torque arm. From MM this setup would cost $840. After these two components are installed you are left with a three link rear suspension, and the upper two control arms are completely removed.

PDOGG74

UPDATE 02 FEB 2018: okay I fixed a lot of problems took my car to JPC Racing in MD and they did a wonderful job. They put in caster / camber plates, inner / outer tie rods, wheel alignment, upper / lower control arms, brake hardware, drive shaft seal / bearing and last but not least 4.10 gears. Now there is no rubbing at all and my suspension is tight and solid. I pretty much have a new suspension minus new antiroll bars hmmm that might be next lol. My car still has that lean to the left but not as pronounce and for good measure left in the spring spacer. The car has no lean and straight all the way around, now lets talk about the 4.10 gears OMG. If you are on the fence get them get them get them. It really wakes up the car and brings the low end torque out. My car exhaust is already loud and barking, the 4.10 make it bark longer and snap more. 4.6 DOHC loves the 4.10 so please do your car a favor and get some new rear gears for it and make the car smile. Okay my next project will be fixed race seats and down the road I will put in long tube headers and hi-flow catted H pipe. Let me know what you think and please comment.