I now have the MustangSteve clutch cable kit and I'm now shopping for headers. I'd like to avoid the melted cable problem from the start. I've heard that the Flowtech headers are great, especially for the price, but I haven't heard any testimonials on fit with the clutch cable set up.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...00FLT&x=16&y=15

I've had Hedman shortys reccomended to me on Steve's message board, but full length headers would be nice. I know they say there's a bit of low end power loss with shortys.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...88400&x=16&y=11

While we're on the T-5 subject, any idea what is the best constructed/priced crossmember for the swap?

I used the Ron Morris crossmember because it (supposedly) has the best exhaust clearance of any. My exhaust still ended up being pretty tight. I will say that my driveline angles came out perfect with the RM X-member - just something to watch with some. I know several have fabbed their own as well.

With the cable clutches, shorties are the best way for trouble-free fit. I've heard of some people using Hooker Super Comps and passing the cable between tubes - but they aren't cheap and hang low... :dunno:

http://a2.cpimg.com/image/20/A6/2893...-028001E0-.jpg

Good stuff cloney. I would feel pretty uneasy trying to pass the cable between tubes. Sounds like a recipe for a replacement cable to me.

I had noticed the exhaust clearance benefit to the RMP unit. Seems that $140 is the magic number for these things.

EDIT: does the RMP unit use the vintage or latemodel tranny mount?

It uses the vintage mount. :nice:

$140 seems to be the street price - they used to be $130, but with steel prices this year..... :shame:

The original E-brake setup hooked up OK after a little minor bending, although clearance was pretty tight with my X-pipe.

http://a9.cpimg.com/image/D9/C4/3090...-028001E0-.jpg

Cool, thanks Bob. I'm ditching my out-of-whack parking brake and putting a floor mounted brake from the '85 GT I parted out. Not sure how I'll pull that one off, but I'll figure it out and probably make a thread about it, lol.

There were some tests posted somewhere (lots of help I know) that put the JBA midlengths as putting more power overall than the shorties or LTs. They should clear well too.

Always interesting when test results show something contrary to the commonly held belief.
I suppose it really shouldn't matter. I don't know that I'll be making enough power to notice a difference. :dunno:

In my 66 with a T5, I am using the RMP crossmember, too. It's light (~3lbs)and well constructed. I think it has more clearance than some of the other models out there because of its reverse curves that curve around the exhaust (see Cloney's pic).
Good luck with the header question... I'm still trying to find ones that work with my cable, too. For now I'm using the stock (log) manifolds :( but have some hi-po manifolds ready to go if I can return my settled shock towers to normal... the k manifolds were rubbing on the passenger side.:scratch:
Daniel

Always interesting when test results show something contrary to the commonly held belief.
I suppose it really shouldn't matter. I don't know that I'll be making enough power to notice a difference. :dunno: [/b][/quote]
I guess the real question is why should long tubes make more power than a set of shorties today with a large mandrel exhaust behind it? Is it because the tight bends of the headers are more constricted? :scratch:

Jay,

I agree with BOB that a good set of shorties would be the BEST way to go for clearance with a cable clutch setup.

However, it IS possible to run the Mustang Steve cable set-up with Try-Y's. As long as you plan the cable routing carefully and take extra steps like adding a heat shield to the cable and making sure it cant wiggle loose and come in contact with the header (Easy 1+" clearance here)

Here's a few pics of my Mustang Steve Cable Clutch install with Try-Y's and Lakewood Scatter shield (I am also running the RM Cross member :nice: )

I used an extra Heavy Duty Clutch Cable and routed it down the forward indent in shock tower and used a large washer and jamb nut on the UCA bolt to hold the cable in place and keep it from comming in contact with the headers.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...5_107_full.jpg

Down below the cable runs along the side of the block and is held in place by a couple pan bolts and padded clips. The rearward one is located as close to the bell housing as possible while still allowing the cable to make a gentle "S" bend into the bell housing. It's hard to see in this pic, but there's at least an 1" or better of clearance from the header.

Pitman arm caused dent in header :rolleyes:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...5_108_full.jpg

hedman long tubes dont really work, I have mine wriggled in between the header tubes covered in heat wrap but I doubt its going to last. I am going to attempt to switch to mid lengths after everything is said and done. They also hang really low and I dont like the fact that you can see them from the side of the car.

...thought you were talking about me for a sec.... :banana: :lol:
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I guess the real question is why should long tubes make more power than a set of shorties today with a large mandrel exhaust behind it? Is it because the tight bends of the headers are more constricted? :scratch: [/b][/quote]
its my opinion that you cant tell the diff in the two in your rump....might be a nanosecond at the strip, but LTs arent worth the hassle over shorties for the street.
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I use a DHP crossmember, fulllength headers, and a homebrew cable clutch. I beat the heat problem by moving one of the header primaries, with the able help of Emberglo, Master Welder :banana:

Working fine for 18 months now....
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Wow! Great feedback guys. ThankYouThankYouThankYou!

Ken, great pics, that helps a ton.

Lman, I don't care who ya' are, that's funny right there. :lol:
Unless emberglow wants to go on a road trip, it looks like a good set of shortys is the way to go for me.

This is really good stuff. I think this thread is gonna get referenced in the T-5 FAQ, and I'll slap a link at MustangSteve's forum as well.

:nice:

Your situation is typical of what most of us experience with the T5 swap - you can either have longtube headers OR a cable clutch... When you try to do both, it gets REAL tricky! That's why you see so many guys with hydraulic linkage and so many guys with shorty headers - either one solves the problem, with either a slight performance or cost "compromise"... :dunno:

The reason long tube headers make more power is because the length of the tubes can be designed to produce a scavenging effect, ie. the exhaust pulses of the individual cylinders work synergistically at the collector to create a suction and draw spent gasses out of the cylinders. The main benefit of shorty headers vs. stock manifolds as far as power is concerned is the fact that the tubes are larger diameter with less acute angles. Also, the tubing retains less heat than cast iron which assists in speeding exhaust flow. However, shorties provide minimal scavenging effect because the tube lengths are all different. Shorties reduce restriction but good long tubes actually help evacuate the cylinders. That being said, the milder the state of tune of the engine the less of a difference one will notice between the two designs.

You all have said in other threads that it will cost around 1200 max if you do your own work, but I priced out trans, clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, and driveshaft, and it is around 1500-1800 dollars?
so where do you all save money?

Used parts deals. I parted out a friend's recently totalled 85 GT and got the whole running gear (engine, transmission, and clutch, flywheel, bellhousing) for about $200 when it's all said and done. Those kinds of deals are out there if you look hard enough and are willing to do a little work.

I priced out my swap (C4-to-T5) here one time in detail, and it came to ~820.00 complete, IIRC. That was with parts scrounging, some welding, fabbing, etc.....you can save significantly if you are willing to work at it.