After seeing Gary break a wheel stud I ordered a set for my car. The factory ones are just not made for constant wheel swaps and I have been doing many. I called CJ's since they were not listed on the site but got the M1107A, M1107B Ford Racing kits special ordered $93 each shipped. Each contains 10 studs for the front and rear. You also need 4 sets of M1012G lugs.

There is a right way and the other way to do almost anything and the right way to install these is with a press. Pounding these out you take the risk of hurting the wheel bearing. I was going to do this at the dealer but after they arrived the box was staring at me for over a half hour, I could not control myself any longer. So I went to pull just one wheel to see how hard they would be to remove.

I was shocked how easy the old studs popped out, I used little force and the first one popped out first try. It did not even damage the old wheel studs, in fact not one all the way around. You do have to be careful to not hit it too hard and hit them straight on, if not it can contact the ABS sensor ring and damage them, especially on the rear wheels.

I used old lugs loosely installed at the end of the stud with the flat side out. One medium blow to loosen it and then lightly tap the rest out.





Then just replace with the new stud, turn the lug nut around so the flat side is facing in and use an air gun to seat them. I also gave each one an extra check with a 1/2 breaker bar.




All in all fairly simple job to do using few tools anyone can do. One less thing to worry about now at the track Most time consuming part was lifting the car and pulling the wheels, oh and finding more space to store more spare parts



Going to run the car on the street and check wheel torque a few times before Daytona.

 

Very nice tutorial Scott!

 

...and the rear?

 

Whatyamean, I did both front and rears. The only difference is the front has clearance behind the hub and the back has a special hole cut toward the front of the hub to remove them without pulling the axles out. So you need to line those up.

 

Going to be doing this in 2012

 

OK so real quick--you did not need to remove the rotor or duct backing plate to put these in?

 

You do need to pull the rotor, but not the brake duct backing plate. Well at least I did it that way, but looks like Scott left them on. I would think it might be harder to line it up not to damage the ABS sensor though.

 

It is very easy to do with the rotor on. The head of both the OEM stud AND the ARP stud has a flat side just to insure that you don't hit the ABS sensor.

 

Come to think of it, I was doing a rotor and pad swap at the same time

 

10-4!
Heh, I was going to wait until next week when I swap on my track rotors and pads, but I have nothing to do tonight, so time to mod!

 

At first I did not know what the flat spot was for, I figured it was there for the ABS ring but the factory studs are installed with the flat spots at all different angles. That is why I said not to hit them too hard on the removal, one light to medium blow and they will loosen up, then light taps to get them all the way out. You will only damage the ring if you pound on it so hard it flies out. Putting them in is easy and just use the flat side toward the ring.

I did leave the backing plate on and removed the stud facing the rear of the car then rotate the rotor for the next. If you are going to pull the rotors for a different job you could wait. Having the rotor off minimizes the chance of any wheel bearing damage. I continued with my job while they were still on the car only because they came out so easy. Once you are doing the rear you will see the hole to line up to one stud at a time.

 

I do think that the flat spot is there to get the stud clear of the ABS ring but the ABS ring is ~1" behind the rotor. In other words, as soon as you have oriented the stud head to clear the ABS ring, then it is free to be pulled in at any orientation - hence the random orientation of the OEM studs.

Good advice from Scott.

 

As far as damaging the ring, if you thread your sacrifical lugnut down, leaving only about 1/2" of thread exposed between the lug and rotor, you can pound to your heart's delight with no risk of damage. The lug will stop the stud from hitting the WSS when it releases.

I used a couple of the factory ford wheel nuts for this. Little 4lb mini-sledge took the stock studs out no problem.

 

That is a real good idea, this is why I love the forums!

 

I too am replacing the studs to the 190.000 yeild like ARP but I am going to use the double sided lug nuts. I have had grear luck in the past and you don't need to look at the for the taper. Just a thought.

 

Finished FRPP/ARP stud swap tonight. Got them from CJ Pony for about $185. They don't keep them in stock, but shipped 6 days after I ordered.

I used Drew's trick to knock them out. Hardware store trip for sacrificial nut and lug nut. Spun nut on w/in ~1/2" of hub, put on sacrificial lug nut, grabbed 3 lb dead blow BFH, and smacked them out. Most popped out with 1 or 2 strikes. Some took more. The rear stud heads are much closer to the ABS ring than fronts, so adjust stop nut accordingly.
Here's pics:


Front stud out.


To pull new studs in, I went to the hardware store and got a 5/8" inside diameter by 1" long steel collar and a washer (1" long water pipe nipple may work also). Slid those over the stud, then used the impact to pull them in. I don't have a long impact socket, so I used a spark plug socket, and needed the steel collar for the long studs.
Here's the rear hub showing collar, washer, nut:


Done:



Yep, look like everyone's photos

 

Was that for front, rear, & lugs?

 

CJ is $92.75 for front set, same price for rear.
I had already ordered Gorilla lug nuts off amazon.
If you want to use FRPP lug nuts, CoolTech sells the complete setup for $209.
http://www.cooltechllc.com/Boss/Boss_ARP_Stud_Kit.shtml

 

Crap, I paid $93 per set !!! guess I will on the phone first thing in the morning

 

If Gary is monitoring, and didn't weigh his before install, here's the info:
Factory: front/rear studs/lug nuts: 1.38/1.30/2.6=5.28 pounds
FRPP front/rear studs/Gorilla lug nuts: 1.96/1.82/2.06=5.84 lb

So net increase of .56 lb of unsprung mass.

Scott, sorry to hear you blew your upgrade budget purchasing from the wrong place.
But I did get a $30 gift card that expires in 30 days.