Roush Splitter installed without hacking OEM piece...
3/18/14, 10:18 AM
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Roush Splitter installed without hacking OEM piece...
Installed the Roush chin and side splitters last weekend (no good pics yet, just a phone pic). After spending about 30 minutes just looking at the disassembled pieces and the splitter itself, I decided there was no way I was going to cut up my OEM splitter for the install. If the splitter ever catches on anything, I can just remove it and go back to stock.
Given the construction of the splitter, I can see why Roush recommends hacking the OEM (plus, I'm sure that's what they do on the cars they modify, so its SOP for them). However, it is simply not necessary. The main area where the OEM piece provides support is at the ends (where the OEM splitter wraps around to connect to the inner fender). The Roush splitter does not have these brackets molded in (it should). However, this can be remedied by finding a strong piece of plastic and modifying it into a bracket (see pic).
In this case, I used two room keys from the Parker Meridien (my favorite hotel in the world). Carefully locate the holes to be drilled, drill them, then flip another key over and use the first as a template. The ends of the splitter and the inner fender are very solidly together. This weekend, I will mask off and plasti-dip the cards to provide a factory appearance.
The Roush splitter IS quite flimsy (just a few molded in braces would have resolved that perfectly and would have cost maybe $0.02 of production cost), but the day after install we drove 400 miles (often at 90+mph), and no problems. You will want to reuse as many of the original screws (with their larger washers) as possible across the front. The only other bracing I may add is a small piece of thin aluminum bar that bolts to the center bolt and extends to the underside tip of the spoiler- but that's just extra protection against downward deflection.
I have gotten numerous compliments on the splitters already, and they really do look quite nice (the side ones make the car's stance appear at least 2" lower than it is). One coworker came in today and asked "what was different" about my car (said it looked good, just "meaner"). It would have been nice if Roush would have beefed the products up just a little bit (and would it have killed their budget to put a little logo'd stick in with either of the pieces for me to stick on my tool chest).
BTW, I travel quite a bit and make a habit of keeping the plastic key cards when I check out. They are incredibly handy in the garage and around the house (for removing trim, as shims, as spackle appliers, or in this case to form a bracket).
Given the construction of the splitter, I can see why Roush recommends hacking the OEM (plus, I'm sure that's what they do on the cars they modify, so its SOP for them). However, it is simply not necessary. The main area where the OEM piece provides support is at the ends (where the OEM splitter wraps around to connect to the inner fender). The Roush splitter does not have these brackets molded in (it should). However, this can be remedied by finding a strong piece of plastic and modifying it into a bracket (see pic).
In this case, I used two room keys from the Parker Meridien (my favorite hotel in the world). Carefully locate the holes to be drilled, drill them, then flip another key over and use the first as a template. The ends of the splitter and the inner fender are very solidly together. This weekend, I will mask off and plasti-dip the cards to provide a factory appearance.
The Roush splitter IS quite flimsy (just a few molded in braces would have resolved that perfectly and would have cost maybe $0.02 of production cost), but the day after install we drove 400 miles (often at 90+mph), and no problems. You will want to reuse as many of the original screws (with their larger washers) as possible across the front. The only other bracing I may add is a small piece of thin aluminum bar that bolts to the center bolt and extends to the underside tip of the spoiler- but that's just extra protection against downward deflection.
I have gotten numerous compliments on the splitters already, and they really do look quite nice (the side ones make the car's stance appear at least 2" lower than it is). One coworker came in today and asked "what was different" about my car (said it looked good, just "meaner"). It would have been nice if Roush would have beefed the products up just a little bit (and would it have killed their budget to put a little logo'd stick in with either of the pieces for me to stick on my tool chest).
BTW, I travel quite a bit and make a habit of keeping the plastic key cards when I check out. They are incredibly handy in the garage and around the house (for removing trim, as shims, as spackle appliers, or in this case to form a bracket).
3/18/14, 12:42 PM
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The stock spoiler has "wings" that extend up into the wheel well. They serve to secure the inner wheel well and the fender in front of the wheel opening (without them, you can easily wobble the front edge of the wheel opening back and forth). The plastic cards secure the the fender/inner well to the front of the car (firms everything up- no wobble).
I believe this is the main reason Roush needs an installer to reuse part of the OEM spoiler. The only remaining area of potential weakness is the center point of the spoiler (I haven't noticed any deformation yet, but it is not inconceivable that- in the summer temps with high speeds you could get some downward deflection/deformation).
As mentioned, the easy fix could be a thin bar of aluminum drilled to mount over the center screw and extending under the spoiler. It wouldn't take much support to make things very solid.
I believe this is the main reason Roush needs an installer to reuse part of the OEM spoiler. The only remaining area of potential weakness is the center point of the spoiler (I haven't noticed any deformation yet, but it is not inconceivable that- in the summer temps with high speeds you could get some downward deflection/deformation).
As mentioned, the easy fix could be a thin bar of aluminum drilled to mount over the center screw and extending under the spoiler. It wouldn't take much support to make things very solid.
3/18/14, 01:29 PM
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I just couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger on $90 for two really small pieces of plastic, so I didn't go with the rear splitters. However, I hope to see them in person on some cars next month in Charlotte- with a mind that if I like them I'll take the plunge.
Without a doubt, the margin on these parts for Roush must be spectacular. It probably cost <$5 to produce a splitter they are charging close to $200 for... Not complaining (since I work in an industry where we take little circles of plastic that cost $2 in materials and sell them for $300-400
).
The other part I'm considering is the Boss brake ducts to replace the panels in the front bumper (which are also expensive for what they are).
Without a doubt, the margin on these parts for Roush must be spectacular. It probably cost <$5 to produce a splitter they are charging close to $200 for... Not complaining (since I work in an industry where we take little circles of plastic that cost $2 in materials and sell them for $300-400
).The other part I'm considering is the Boss brake ducts to replace the panels in the front bumper (which are also expensive for what they are).
3/18/14, 02:05 PM
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funny you post this because I've had my Roush splitter sitting around waiting for warmer weather, and I too see zero point in hacking up the stock splitter. I was also going to find a solution for the corners as well, but not hotel room cards. :-P
3/18/14, 02:20 PM
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Yes, but they are Parker Meridien hotel key cards...
I work in technical marketing for a company that manufactures product from plastic monomers. On a whim, I decided to have these key cards tested for tensile strength (ability to resist tearing). Typically, the average key card has ridiculously high tensile strength- if you do not fatigue it (bending it back and forth on itself) it will withstand a huge amount of pulling force.
So, while they may not look good pre-finishing, they will probably hold up longer than the resin used for the chin spoiler.
Good luck with the install- I'm sure there are plenty of other classier brace options out there!
I work in technical marketing for a company that manufactures product from plastic monomers. On a whim, I decided to have these key cards tested for tensile strength (ability to resist tearing). Typically, the average key card has ridiculously high tensile strength- if you do not fatigue it (bending it back and forth on itself) it will withstand a huge amount of pulling force.
So, while they may not look good pre-finishing, they will probably hold up longer than the resin used for the chin spoiler.
Good luck with the install- I'm sure there are plenty of other classier brace options out there!
3/18/14, 06:48 PM
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The purpose of retaining and modifying the stock piece is to fully support the splash guard underneath, as well as what you noted. The splash guard installs in between the new splitter and the modified stock piece. There are no fasteners towards the outsides of the guard. In your picture, it didn't look like you reused the splash guard. Did you?
3/18/14, 08:42 PM
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I took the pic before reinstalling the splash guard. The splash guard actually covers the bottom end of the brace.
Not modifying/re-installing the original splitter had nothing to do with saving time- its not hard to modify the OEM piece at all. If the Roush splitter catches a blown semi tire (lost a spoiler on a 9-3 Aero that way) or a curb- or if I ever want to return to stock- my uncut OEM piece is in the attic.
Here are some better pics (the tilt of our driveway and the shadows always make the car look like it's sitting wonky- the '06 we picked up for our daughter is sitting in the background):
Not modifying/re-installing the original splitter had nothing to do with saving time- its not hard to modify the OEM piece at all. If the Roush splitter catches a blown semi tire (lost a spoiler on a 9-3 Aero that way) or a curb- or if I ever want to return to stock- my uncut OEM piece is in the attic.
Here are some better pics (the tilt of our driveway and the shadows always make the car look like it's sitting wonky- the '06 we picked up for our daughter is sitting in the background):
3/19/14, 04:31 PM
#13
Looks good. Going off topic but what color are your stripes and where did you get them? I love the looks of yours and I have the same color car and have been looking at different stripe setups and colors. Did you install them or did you have them done? Thanks.
Wayne
Wayne
3/19/14, 08:38 PM
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Thanks! I purchased the stripes from Big Worm Graphix (www.bigwormgraphix.com). I had them installed there as well. Total for the stripes, install, and replacement black "5.0" emblems was something around $260. They have the colors on the site- I believe its called light silver metallic.
The metallic pretty much matches the metallic in the Sterling Gray. I considered going with a pearl white metallic, but chickened out at the last moment. They get a lot of comments. You can have the top of the side stripe (where mine says "GT") personalized. I was thinking of going with "S-197," but again decided to leave well enough alone and go for "GT."
I just visited the site, and they have a pic of my car as one of the examples:
The metallic pretty much matches the metallic in the Sterling Gray. I considered going with a pearl white metallic, but chickened out at the last moment. They get a lot of comments. You can have the top of the side stripe (where mine says "GT") personalized. I was thinking of going with "S-197," but again decided to leave well enough alone and go for "GT."
I just visited the site, and they have a pic of my car as one of the examples:
Last edited by Varilux; 3/19/14 at 08:52 PM.
3/21/14, 11:42 AM
#17
Thanks! I purchased the stripes from Big Worm Graphix (www.bigwormgraphix.com). I had them installed there as well. Total for the stripes, install, and replacement black "5.0" emblems was something around $260. They have the colors on the site- I believe its called light silver metallic.
The metallic pretty much matches the metallic in the Sterling Gray. I considered going with a pearl white metallic, but chickened out at the last moment. They get a lot of comments. You can have the top of the side stripe (where mine says "GT") personalized. I was thinking of going with "S-197," but again decided to leave well enough alone and go for "GT."
I just visited the site, and they have a pic of my car as one of the examples:
The metallic pretty much matches the metallic in the Sterling Gray. I considered going with a pearl white metallic, but chickened out at the last moment. They get a lot of comments. You can have the top of the side stripe (where mine says "GT") personalized. I was thinking of going with "S-197," but again decided to leave well enough alone and go for "GT."
I just visited the site, and they have a pic of my car as one of the examples:
thanks for the link and information. I can't tell for sure, but did you have the stripe put on the trunk lid?
Wayne
3/21/14, 12:51 PM
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No problem... nothing on the trunk lid or rear deck. Just a hood stripe (they have regular and wide- I went with the wide) and the hockey stripes running down the side.
Took them about 1 hour to get them installed. The only issue has been a tiny amount of tiger striping in the metallic on the hood stripe (no one else has ever mentioned seeing it, but in the right light I notice it sometimes).
Took them about 1 hour to get them installed. The only issue has been a tiny amount of tiger striping in the metallic on the hood stripe (no one else has ever mentioned seeing it, but in the right light I notice it sometimes).
3/21/14, 04:05 PM
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The stock splitter is installed under the Roush for structural support. You have defeated the integrity of the fascia.
Just make sure you inspect it. There is a thread around here about one self destructing.
I removed mine, its in the pile of Mustang parts I'm not using anymore lol.
Just make sure you inspect it. There is a thread around here about one self destructing.
I removed mine, its in the pile of Mustang parts I'm not using anymore lol.
3/22/14, 10:08 PM
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I had a chance to "finish" the install today...
The cards / end-braces have been plasti-dipped, and 3 aluminum bar braces have been installed as extra support for the spoiler.
To make the braces, I just measured from the mounting bolts to the structural element under the spoiler (the ones on the side are about 1/4" shorter than the center one). Then just drill a 1/4" hole at the appropriate place and install. Took maybe 15 minutes.
The end result is a spoiler which is quite stiff. I suppose if I tried to stand on it I could break it, but- short of that- it is really quite well supported. The braces contact the spoiler further out than the remnant of the stock splitter would have, and the spoiler definitely shouldn't deflect downward at high speeds.
This project is officially done, and I'm happy to have my un-spoiled stock spoiler as a back-up. In conclusion, I'd say the Roush splitter looks great- but, for $189 it shouldn't require the destruction of the original spoiler (and, for about $3 in extra parts, it doesn't need to).
The cards / end-braces have been plasti-dipped, and 3 aluminum bar braces have been installed as extra support for the spoiler.
To make the braces, I just measured from the mounting bolts to the structural element under the spoiler (the ones on the side are about 1/4" shorter than the center one). Then just drill a 1/4" hole at the appropriate place and install. Took maybe 15 minutes.
The end result is a spoiler which is quite stiff. I suppose if I tried to stand on it I could break it, but- short of that- it is really quite well supported. The braces contact the spoiler further out than the remnant of the stock splitter would have, and the spoiler definitely shouldn't deflect downward at high speeds.
This project is officially done, and I'm happy to have my un-spoiled stock spoiler as a back-up. In conclusion, I'd say the Roush splitter looks great- but, for $189 it shouldn't require the destruction of the original spoiler (and, for about $3 in extra parts, it doesn't need to).