Upgraded Gauges for LS
8/20/11, 09:29 AM
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Upgraded Gauges for LS
Some of you have undoubtedly read in other threads where we have upgraded the gauges in the Cool Tech LS. I wanted to start a new thread to focus on the gauge topic and to share what we have learned - so other can do the same - or shorten their learning experience for what they would like to do.
Our gauge journey started with the objective to add a Oil Temperature gauge to validate the effectivity of an oil cooler. We have never been a fan of the g-meter "performance" gauge in the LS and so we chose to replace it. We selected an Auto Meter Elite series gauge since it seemed to be the best match for bezel color and shape, dial, and font matching. The installation of the gauge was pretty straightforward (all 3 of these LS-OEM dash gauges are made by Auto Meter). In the process, however, we really fell for the cool functionality of these new Elite-series gauges. In particular, the gauges can be programmed for a low threshold, a normal area, and a high threshold. For each of these areas, you can choose a unique background color of the gauge. Additionally, if the high threshold is exceeded, the chosen background color will blink. The gauges are bright (more on this in a minute) and I don't think you could miss the blinking even in broad daylight. So, perhaps an example is best. We have programmed 190 degrees as the low oil-temp threshold and kept the default green color. We chose a blue color for the normal range between 190-300. We selected 300 degrees as the high threshold and kept the default red color. When you start the car cold, the oil temperature gauge illuminates in green. As the oil temp is warming up the gauge stays green - potentially reminding you not to go crazy until you oil temp is ready. When the oil touches 190, the gauge face goes blue signifying that we are in the normal range of operation. If/when we are at the track and the oil temp exceeds our programmed 300F high temp, we will be alerted with the flashing red background. Too cool!
Well, we're a sucker for cool things and we went ahead and also replaced both the LS-OEM water temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge with the matching Auto Meter Elite-series gauges. Each gauge has this same level of programming. So, not only do we have some very nice gauges that are easily more legible than the OEM gauges - but we have the ability to be "alerted" if any of our selected parameters are exceeded.
Next post: Installation Considerations
Our gauge journey started with the objective to add a Oil Temperature gauge to validate the effectivity of an oil cooler. We have never been a fan of the g-meter "performance" gauge in the LS and so we chose to replace it. We selected an Auto Meter Elite series gauge since it seemed to be the best match for bezel color and shape, dial, and font matching. The installation of the gauge was pretty straightforward (all 3 of these LS-OEM dash gauges are made by Auto Meter). In the process, however, we really fell for the cool functionality of these new Elite-series gauges. In particular, the gauges can be programmed for a low threshold, a normal area, and a high threshold. For each of these areas, you can choose a unique background color of the gauge. Additionally, if the high threshold is exceeded, the chosen background color will blink. The gauges are bright (more on this in a minute) and I don't think you could miss the blinking even in broad daylight. So, perhaps an example is best. We have programmed 190 degrees as the low oil-temp threshold and kept the default green color. We chose a blue color for the normal range between 190-300. We selected 300 degrees as the high threshold and kept the default red color. When you start the car cold, the oil temperature gauge illuminates in green. As the oil temp is warming up the gauge stays green - potentially reminding you not to go crazy until you oil temp is ready. When the oil touches 190, the gauge face goes blue signifying that we are in the normal range of operation. If/when we are at the track and the oil temp exceeds our programmed 300F high temp, we will be alerted with the flashing red background. Too cool!
Well, we're a sucker for cool things and we went ahead and also replaced both the LS-OEM water temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge with the matching Auto Meter Elite-series gauges. Each gauge has this same level of programming. So, not only do we have some very nice gauges that are easily more legible than the OEM gauges - but we have the ability to be "alerted" if any of our selected parameters are exceeded.
Next post: Installation Considerations
Last edited by nota4re; 8/20/11 at 09:37 AM.
8/20/11, 10:13 AM
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Gauge Installation Considerations (Our experiences.)
Unfortunately, we were not able to re-use any of the OEM sending units for the new gauges we installed (Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp). The good news is that on the Coyote engine all 3 of the sensors that you need to install are on the driver's side of the block, low and just forward of the engine mount. In this area you will find the OEM oil pressure sending unit (1/4" NPT) and the 7/16" hex plug in the block where the block heater could be added. You can remove the Oil Pressure sending Unit and you can install a T in this location to add an Oil Temp sending unit. You could also choose to replace the OEM Pressure sending unit with an aftermarket one if you are replacing the OEM gauge. (Note: If you do this on a Boss LS, you will need to ground the gray wire on the harness for the gauge cluster in the car - as the ECU needs a ground signal to confirm that oil pressure is present.)
I hope this info may help others. It has been a collabortive effort to do what we did and I'd like to thank Chris, PTRocks for his very helpful input and suggestions.
The Boss and LS models DO NOT read coolant temperature directly - rather the ECU derives it from Cylinder Head Temperatures (CHT). If you think about it, CHT is really what the ECU would like to know from a perspective of protecting the engine and ECT's have been "one step removed". In other words, historically manufacturers have looked at ECT's as a means to determine CHT's and now they can do this directly. But, all of us are conditioned for ECT's so now Ford has to do the derivation the other way around. Ha! Anyway, by removing the 7/16" Hex, 3/4" NPT plug from the side of the block, you can easily add a sensor here for measuring engine coolant temps (ECTs). We sourced a brass 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT reducer from Home Depot and the gauge kit came with the needed 1/2" NPT to 1/8" NPT for the sending unit. In summary, each of oil pressure, oil temp, and coolant temp can be "tapped" relatively close to each other, the wires combined into a single harness (2 wires for each temp sensor and 3 wires for the pressure sensor) and routed into the car. Grounding of the gray wire for LS owners is the only "trick" that you'll need to know.
OK, so maybe a few words on gauge illumination. The Auto Meter Elite gauges can be programmed to be full-on or, alternatively, to be controlled by the car's dimmer. Neither way is perfect... but there's a solution. The full-on mode is very nice for daytime operation and it would be mu preference (I have old eyes). However, at night full-on is just too bright. If you use dimmer mode the really cool part is that probably 99% of cars out there can't control the gauge's LED backlighting but the Boss can since IT has dimmable LED illumination as well. But the problem with this mode is that while it is great for night time operation (where you can adjust the intensity), the gauge backlighting is off during the day when the Boss' headlights are off. Ahhh, but Auto Meter will sell you a solution! It is the Auto Meter 9114 LED Gauge Dimmer module. (What's anther $30 bucks when you've spent $600 already! LOL)
Unfortunately, we were not able to re-use any of the OEM sending units for the new gauges we installed (Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp). The good news is that on the Coyote engine all 3 of the sensors that you need to install are on the driver's side of the block, low and just forward of the engine mount. In this area you will find the OEM oil pressure sending unit (1/4" NPT) and the 7/16" hex plug in the block where the block heater could be added. You can remove the Oil Pressure sending Unit and you can install a T in this location to add an Oil Temp sending unit. You could also choose to replace the OEM Pressure sending unit with an aftermarket one if you are replacing the OEM gauge. (Note: If you do this on a Boss LS, you will need to ground the gray wire on the harness for the gauge cluster in the car - as the ECU needs a ground signal to confirm that oil pressure is present.)
I hope this info may help others. It has been a collabortive effort to do what we did and I'd like to thank Chris, PTRocks for his very helpful input and suggestions.
The Boss and LS models DO NOT read coolant temperature directly - rather the ECU derives it from Cylinder Head Temperatures (CHT). If you think about it, CHT is really what the ECU would like to know from a perspective of protecting the engine and ECT's have been "one step removed". In other words, historically manufacturers have looked at ECT's as a means to determine CHT's and now they can do this directly. But, all of us are conditioned for ECT's so now Ford has to do the derivation the other way around. Ha! Anyway, by removing the 7/16" Hex, 3/4" NPT plug from the side of the block, you can easily add a sensor here for measuring engine coolant temps (ECTs). We sourced a brass 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT reducer from Home Depot and the gauge kit came with the needed 1/2" NPT to 1/8" NPT for the sending unit. In summary, each of oil pressure, oil temp, and coolant temp can be "tapped" relatively close to each other, the wires combined into a single harness (2 wires for each temp sensor and 3 wires for the pressure sensor) and routed into the car. Grounding of the gray wire for LS owners is the only "trick" that you'll need to know.
OK, so maybe a few words on gauge illumination. The Auto Meter Elite gauges can be programmed to be full-on or, alternatively, to be controlled by the car's dimmer. Neither way is perfect... but there's a solution. The full-on mode is very nice for daytime operation and it would be mu preference (I have old eyes). However, at night full-on is just too bright. If you use dimmer mode the really cool part is that probably 99% of cars out there can't control the gauge's LED backlighting but the Boss can since IT has dimmable LED illumination as well. But the problem with this mode is that while it is great for night time operation (where you can adjust the intensity), the gauge backlighting is off during the day when the Boss' headlights are off. Ahhh, but Auto Meter will sell you a solution! It is the Auto Meter 9114 LED Gauge Dimmer module. (What's anther $30 bucks when you've spent $600 already! LOL)
8/20/11, 04:26 PM
#5
Very cool
8/21/11, 08:14 AM
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Sweet. My guess is that the setup you have installed would cost approximately the same as the LS gauge pack kit Ford Racing sells. For us non LS owners we could buy the gauge pod and then purchase the Auto Meter gauges separately. Will you offer this as a kit?
Looks like a drive to Santa Clarita will be in order for a gauge pack install and maybe an oil cooler kit. Are rides in your TT FGT included?
Looks like a drive to Santa Clarita will be in order for a gauge pack install and maybe an oil cooler kit. Are rides in your TT FGT included?
8/21/11, 08:38 AM
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Are rides in your TT FGT included?
Regarding the gauge pack for Boss owners, yes, I like your thinking. Probably for the same or even less cost you could get the gauges I have referenced instead of the LS gauges. The un-known is in cutting the first Boss dash! I suppose we could create a template from one of the LS's in order to know where the hole and 4 slots for the feet are.
Not sure about making a kit for that. Frankly, doesn't seem to be any margin we could create and have it be worthwhile for us and owners. That's my first guess.
8/21/11, 11:04 AM
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Gauge Parts List and More
I second the request for a Parts List.
Also, from an earlier thread by 4pipes on the gauge pod installation, he linked the Install Instructions from Ford Racing Parts, which includes a dash template on the last page
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...structions.pdf
Also, from an earlier thread by 4pipes on the gauge pod installation, he linked the Install Instructions from Ford Racing Parts, which includes a dash template on the last page
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...structions.pdf
8/21/11, 11:26 AM
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Can you please put a gauge pack parts list together?
Here's the gauges and dimmer control I purchased from Summit Racing. (Great company, in my opinion.)
Here's some installation tips:
It will be easier if you remove the bezel around the radio and HVAC controls. To do so, you will need to first lift up the bezel around the shifter and turn it sideways, more or less out of your way - but revealing the two screws at the bottom of the radio bezel.
Each gauge needs switched power and ground. Also, the white wire from each gauge is the variable illumination signal. These should also be combined as they will all go to the 9114 gauge illumination switch. (Note: The gauges have more capabilities than what I have described already. Each gauge has a data-logging out wire. Additionally, each gauge has hi and low signal out wires. So, in addition to the programmable thresholds changing the face color of the gauge, you could also program a fan on/off, for example using these trigger wires. I didn't exploit any of these - but just know that they are there.)
LS Owners: As mentioned previously, if you replace the OEM pressure sensor, make sure to connect the gray wire in the gauge harness to ground to tell the ECU that there's oil pressure.
Non-LS Owners: If you replace your oil pressure switch, make sure you connect the two wires going to the existing sensor - as the function of the existing sensor is to "close" with oil pressure.
As I final note - if you have even a fractionally small concern about how to get from your dash into the engine compartment (through the firewall) - DON'T FRET!! We will have a inexpensive, simple product to enable this - while simultaneously cleaning up the engine appearance and saving about a pound of weight.
8/21/11, 01:37 PM
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The sensors all are included with the gauges. The water and oil temperature sensors are both 2-wire (there's a connector on the sensor) and use an 1/8" NPT. The oil pressure sending unit is a 3-wire (also with a connector on the sensor itself). Plenty of wire is included with each gauge as well.
Note: I know and appreciate that there are many other good gauges out there - so my write up only discusses my experience with the Auto Meter Elite series. Other owners may choose to pursue other alternatives and that's great and I would do my best to help in any way possible.
Note: I know and appreciate that there are many other good gauges out there - so my write up only discusses my experience with the Auto Meter Elite series. Other owners may choose to pursue other alternatives and that's great and I would do my best to help in any way possible.
8/21/11, 06:46 PM
#15
Kendall, simply outstanding 
I too will have to spend more money, lol.
I have been undecided on doing pillar gauges or the LS gauge pod, where do you think (or other trackrats) is a better position for them on the track?
I too will have to spend more money, lol. I have been undecided on doing pillar gauges or the LS gauge pod, where do you think (or other trackrats) is a better position for them on the track?
8/21/11, 07:19 PM
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IMHO....
The LS gauge pod is too far out of the drivers view and is pointed to the rear, not the driver. While it might offer a cool factor to the car and it's rider's, it's not very functional for the track. I need something large and immediately in front of me for the track. Gauges at the track have to compete for attention with other cars, apexes, and flag stations....no time to look over at the center of the dash.
8/21/11, 07:25 PM
#17
The LS gauge pod is too far out of the drivers view and is pointed to the rear, not the driver. While it might offer a cool factor to the car and it's rider's, it's not very functional for the track. I need something large and immediately in front of me for the track. Gauges at the track have to compete for attention with other cars, apexes, and flag stations....no time to look over at the center of the dash.
That is what I have been thinking and now I am using a OBD II gauge stuck to the windshield right in front of my face. I was looking into some pillar gauges, love the oil temp gauge and the temp gauge is needed, I could live without the pressure gauge, it does me no good out there, would rather have a trans or rear temp gauge.
8/21/11, 07:31 PM
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If you think about it, oil temperature can get very high without causing engine damage, probably north of 135*c. We already have an idiot light for low oil pressure, and limp mode if coolant temp. gets out of shape. That's all you need for the track. My Cobra, has a big red light for low oil pressure (external oil pump), that is the only concern I had when I tracked it.
8/21/11, 08:13 PM
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The LS gauge pod is too far out of the drivers view and is pointed to the rear, not the driver. While it might offer a cool factor to the car and it's rider's, it's not very functional for the track. I need something large and immediately in front of me for the track. Gauges at the track have to compete for attention with other cars, apexes, and flag stations....no time to look over at the center of the dash.
