Coyote Down!
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Coyote Down!
Took my 2014 GT (11000 miles) to the dealership for a knocking sound from idle to 900rpm. They got back to me and said they have to take the block apart. Stinks because I just ordered new exhaust to put on before my trip to SC for performance driving school. Now, all I have is the exhaust and no car. Bummed!!
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On the other hand, I had a positive experience both times my car went into the service dept. at Salerno Duane Ford in NJ.
OP - Tasca is a reputable place so hopefully you should be OK. They have a long race history as well so maybe their techs know their stuff.
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It varies. I have been to a Ford dealer that was totally incompetent - from the mechanics to the manager. Dana Ford in Staten Island. Stay away from that place. On the other hand, I had a positive experience both times my car went into the service dept. at Salerno Duane Ford in NJ. OP - Tasca is a reputable place so hopefully you should be OK. They have a long race history as well so maybe their techs know their stuff.
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I agreed to a replacement short block. The create arrived there Friday so we'll see how long until finished. I don't think they will have it in time for my track days in South Carolina (That are paid for with no refund) but on the other hand I don't want them to rush and have something else go wrong.
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They called me late Monday to tell me the warranty work had been finished. Then it was off to the Mod Shop to have the track key and Ford racing low expansion clutch line installed. At this point I thought it would be possible to get the car back in time to take it with me on vacation in SC to the performance driving school. Well, Tuesday came and went and my wife and I left for vacation on Wednesday as planned. Of course I got the call half way to SC that Dennis was finished with it... ( Murphy's Law or something like that). So seeing that I'll be on vacation for a couple weeks, I decided to let Dennis make a few more mods while I'm on vacation. Ford Racing : Lowering springs Boss Adj. Struts /Shocks Adj. Pan hard bar SVT upper Strut mounts And I had them put on my Corsa Extreme axel backs. When I get back I think I'm going to put on the Blowfish trans bracket. I think I'm done for now. My wife's got that look in her face now. Lmao! Should be pretty awesome when I get it back. I don't recommend to anyone to leave there car with Dennis and the Mod shop for a extended period of time. WAY to dangerous for your wallet.. Lol Actually they have been excellent, great communication and pretty quick at getting the job done. If I could post pics on this forum I could show the job from soup to nuts. I kept driving down to get pictures along the entire process. (That is until I left for vacation). Lol I'll update again as soon as I get it back as to the motors performance. Stay Tuned!!!
Last edited by pminri; 10/3/14 at 02:59 PM.
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Well, I got my car back last night and drove it for a while and then again today. So far the the engine is performing perfectly, no knocking anymore, no tics, just perfect. An added bonus was ordering the track key, I highly recommend picking on up if you can. I did suspension mods as well and with the new engine the car is awesome.
I took pictures of the car with the engine out and I was a bit nervous the car might not be the same as when the factory built it but all doubt is gone. Tasca Ford did an awesome job all around. As an added bonus, somehow when they put it back together I no longer have the 1-2 shift grinding either. No idea what they may have done but I'm certainly not complaining.
I have noticed the car runs hotter by about 10 to 15 degrees but that may be because of the track key tune. I'll try the standard key by this weekend to see if the temp runs around 210 and not 220.
I hope it now stays this way for a long time.
I'll keep posting as time goes on.
I took pictures of the car with the engine out and I was a bit nervous the car might not be the same as when the factory built it but all doubt is gone. Tasca Ford did an awesome job all around. As an added bonus, somehow when they put it back together I no longer have the 1-2 shift grinding either. No idea what they may have done but I'm certainly not complaining.
I have noticed the car runs hotter by about 10 to 15 degrees but that may be because of the track key tune. I'll try the standard key by this weekend to see if the temp runs around 210 and not 220.
I hope it now stays this way for a long time.
I'll keep posting as time goes on.
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"11260 19.1 koeo pass codes. Road test and bring engine to temperature. Raise on lift and isolate noise to oil pan area. Extra time to remove serpentine belt to make certain noise not being transmitted from water pump fead belt system. Run oasis and perform job aid ssm. Cut open oil filter to inspect bearing material in filter no visible signs. Contact hotline for assistance. Ck oil pressure within spec 50psi. Inspect and determine engine condition lower oil pan Ck connecting rod clearance excessive and wear to shaft. Also crankshaft end play on high end of clearance spec .011 with visible signs of damage to bearing and block face. Reclaim a/c remove engine Assy replace short block assy transfer cyl heads and timing components to new block. Charge a/c to proper level add oil prime engine assy. Road test ok".
When I talked with the tech doing the job he told me the crank shaft end play was causing the knock. Finding the rod clearance issue was not the knocking sound but I'm sure was not helping the situation and would have been s failure at some point.
#20
This is exactly what is on my invoice when I picked it up.
"11260 19.1 koeo pass codes. Road test and bring engine to temperature. Raise on lift and isolate noise to oil pan area. Extra time to remove serpentine belt to make certain noise not being transmitted from water pump fead belt system. Run oasis and perform job aid ssm. Cut open oil filter to inspect bearing material in filter no visible signs. Contact hotline for assistance. Ck oil pressure within spec 50psi. Inspect and determine engine condition lower oil pan Ck connecting rod clearance excessive and wear to shaft. Also crankshaft end play on high end of clearance spec .011 with visible signs of damage to bearing and block face. Reclaim a/c remove engine Assy replace short block assy transfer cyl heads and timing components to new block. Charge a/c to proper level add oil prime engine assy. Road test ok".
When I talked with the tech doing the job he told me the crank shaft end play was causing the knock. Finding the rod clearance issue was not the knocking sound but I'm sure was not helping the situation and would have been s failure at some point.
"11260 19.1 koeo pass codes. Road test and bring engine to temperature. Raise on lift and isolate noise to oil pan area. Extra time to remove serpentine belt to make certain noise not being transmitted from water pump fead belt system. Run oasis and perform job aid ssm. Cut open oil filter to inspect bearing material in filter no visible signs. Contact hotline for assistance. Ck oil pressure within spec 50psi. Inspect and determine engine condition lower oil pan Ck connecting rod clearance excessive and wear to shaft. Also crankshaft end play on high end of clearance spec .011 with visible signs of damage to bearing and block face. Reclaim a/c remove engine Assy replace short block assy transfer cyl heads and timing components to new block. Charge a/c to proper level add oil prime engine assy. Road test ok".
When I talked with the tech doing the job he told me the crank shaft end play was causing the knock. Finding the rod clearance issue was not the knocking sound but I'm sure was not helping the situation and would have been s failure at some point.
now it makes perfect sense...whenever we try to record this knock its always coming from lower end under the engine...
Last edited by HizliBullet; 10/20/14 at 12:17 AM.