2014 5.0 tick - engine being ripped apart
10/29/14, 09:35 PM
#62
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I'll be asking about that tomorrow. The phone conversation today was about the car being ready, my body panels issue and the trans issue. They refused to take care of my body panels issue but they said they would ride with me about my 2-1 downshift thud.
10/30/14, 06:56 AM
#63
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You’re welcome, pminri. Trust me; I understand where you’re coming from. I wish I could make everyone’s concerns go away in an instant.
Glad they’re done with that part, jc46002003. Keep me posted.
Deysha
Alright, they told me today that my car is ready and "purring like a kitten". I'll be the judge of that!
I'm going to go test it for myself tomorrow and will update you guys. I asked them if they could clean/detail the car and they said they already did that. So that sounds pretty good.
We'll see!!
I'm going to go test it for myself tomorrow and will update you guys. I asked them if they could clean/detail the car and they said they already did that. So that sounds pretty good.
We'll see!!
Deysha
10/30/14, 07:08 AM
#64
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I had my shortblock replaced due to the ignitor tick back in August. I have a 2014 Track Pack Mustang with manual bone stock engine. It had 10,000 miles at the time.
Here is the work order from it.
Here is the work order from it.
10/30/14, 09:05 AM
#65
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Wow dude. Where tha heck are these low end issues coming from? This has got to be one hell of a cost for Ford.
10/30/14, 10:10 AM
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10/30/14, 02:49 PM
#67
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10/30/14, 03:05 PM
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10/30/14, 05:11 PM
#69
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Thanks!
I have the car.
The motor does run very smoothly and overall, so far so good. I do see some very light scratches, a lot of them, in my clear coat on the front part of the front vendors, where like one would lean over to work on the engine. I don't like that. I told the service advisor about it, he didn't really seem very interested. They obviously didn't use fender covers, or use them correctly if they did.
Here's what the repair order said: removed oil pan and inspected #1 connecting rod bearing, light marks found.
On page 2 it also says: measured #1 connecting rod-journey on crank run, out of spec c-52.983-53.003 reading-52.9mm.
A different section of page 2 says: replaced #1 connecting rod and all rod bearings and crankshaft bearings and crankshaft assembly.
WOW BAD CRANK!
The 2-1 downshift issue doesn't really seam bad so I'm good with that right now.
Also here's some more work: removed drive shaft and axel cover checked backlash-carrier moving too freely to measure-checked pinion preload-5 LB to loose-reset preload to 23 IN LB rechecked backlash set at .011.
In other words, sounds like the selling dealership who repaired my decel vibrations f-ed that up too.
It's driving pretty quietly now. I'll just have to find some way to cope with the clear coat scratches. I'll go to a third party if my escalation on the doors panels doesn't work out.
Still need more time with the car to see if the coast is clear.
Thank you everyone for reading my post and for your helpful words of support.
Last edited by jc46002003; 10/30/14 at 05:12 PM.
10/30/14, 05:29 PM
#70
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Thanks! I have the car. The motor does run very smoothly and overall, so far so good. I do see some very light scratches, a lot of them, in my clear coat on the front part of the front vendors, where like one would lean over to work on the engine. I don't like that. I told the service advisor about it, he didn't really seem very interested. They obviously didn't use fender covers, or use them correctly if they did. Here's what the repair order said: removed oil pan and inspected #1 connecting rod bearing, light marks found. On page 2 it also says: measured #1 connecting rod-journey on crank run, out of spec c-52.983-53.003 reading-52.9mm. A different section of page 2 says: replaced #1 connecting rod and all rod bearings and crankshaft bearings and crankshaft assembly. WOW BAD CRANK! The 2-1 downshift issue doesn't really seam bad so I'm good with that right now. Also here's some more work: removed drive shaft and axel cover checked backlash-carrier moving too freely to measure-checked pinion preload-5 LB to loose-reset preload to 23 IN LB rechecked backlash set at .011. In other words, sounds like the selling dealership who repaired my decel vibrations f-ed that up too. It's driving pretty quietly now. I'll just have to find some way to cope with the clear coat scratches. I'll go to a third party if my escalation on the doors panels doesn't work out. Still need more time with the car to see if the coast is clear. Thank you everyone for reading my post and for your helpful words of support.
Now go enjoy it!!
10/30/14, 06:16 PM
#71
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10/30/14, 08:19 PM
#72
Wowww JC!!! im not gonna quote the whole work order picture but daymmm thats some long work, guys this will change history..!!!
like pminri said can you quickly do an oil change to see if it does anything? preferably motorcrafts 5w-20? i have a track pack as well..
like pminri said can you quickly do an oil change to see if it does anything? preferably motorcrafts 5w-20? i have a track pack as well..
10/30/14, 08:21 PM
#73
10/30/14, 08:28 PM
#74
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That explanation about the connecting rods - could that be the explanation in the ticking from the rest of the Coyotes? I have never actually read any explanation as to why the tick happens.
10/30/14, 09:07 PM
#75
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My situation is a little different. Trying to uncover the tick with an oil change in a factory motor vs my rebuilt-by-hand motor has different variables. It's highly unlikely my noise will come back. I consider it more likely for the tick to come back for cars that have had a long block or short block, since the issues seem to be coming from factory built motors. My motor is no longer a built-at-the-factory motor, per say.
Last edited by jc46002003; 10/30/14 at 09:19 PM.
10/30/14, 09:12 PM
#76
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This is a very important topic. We have to be extremely careful. Each engine will likely be troubleshot individually. Solutions will not be based off other motors. I'll give you an example of why this is important.
The 2014 mustang gt I had that got totaled in a car crash had the exact-same-tick and happened under the exact same conditions. Those conditions being that the tick started to happen when the heads reached 194 degrees. The causes of the tick for my previous car was actually found as coming from between the engine and transmission. They pulled the tranny, inspected flywheel and torque converter and didn't find any problems. They put it back together and the tick was gone. I kid you not, it was the exact same sound. Tap tap..tap...tap...tap tap tap, tap tap tap. Only when warm.
Last edited by jc46002003; 10/30/14 at 09:14 PM.
10/31/14, 01:20 AM
#78
My situation is a little different. Trying to uncover the tick with an oil change in a factory motor vs my rebuilt-by-hand motor has different variables. It's highly unlikely my noise will come back. I consider it more likely for the tick to come back for cars that have had a long block or short block, since the issues seem to be coming from factory built motors. My motor is no longer a built-at-the-factory motor, per say.
10/31/14, 08:42 AM
#79
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10/31/14, 10:40 AM
#80
I showed the inspection sheet to my ford just now and his reaction was.. "we did check your engine and compared, the tick is normal"... Ohh Canadaaaaa....
then a tech walks by and gives the most advice I've had all morning he says "put thicker oil".. is that a valid point?
then a tech walks by and gives the most advice I've had all morning he says "put thicker oil".. is that a valid point?
