GT Premium Front Speakers Replacement
#61
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I replaced the rears this weekend with the Pioneer TSD6802R, drop right in and no speaker adapters required. I did use the Crutchfield connectors. These are the same that I replaced the fronts with.
I have to be honest - was kind of disappointed - the volume level from the rear is pretty low even with the new speakers...
I replaced the factory HU with the DNN991, and am using the factory AMP (which for a 2014 Premium is a 6 channel with built in cross over). I had read other posts that indicated the rears may not be worth the hassle - but - I had to take some of the interior apart anyway to run the cable for a reverse camera that I also installed. So, thought I would go ahead and match the rear speakers to the front.
I am now wondering if I should take the plunge and add an aftermarket AMP to better drive the four Pioneer's and the factory door subs compared to the factory amp.
Will review other posts for some ideas. I assume if this is the approach - one would need a 6 channel AMP such as the JL Audio XD600/6v2 so you can drive the two fronts/rears an door subs - the thought of running speaker wire to all of the speakers is not pleasant though. Getting off topic for this thread so may start another.
At the moment - have to agree with some others that if you stay with the factory AMP - replacing the rears is questionable in terms of any real gain (the fronts do sound pretty good though!).
I have to be honest - was kind of disappointed - the volume level from the rear is pretty low even with the new speakers...
I replaced the factory HU with the DNN991, and am using the factory AMP (which for a 2014 Premium is a 6 channel with built in cross over). I had read other posts that indicated the rears may not be worth the hassle - but - I had to take some of the interior apart anyway to run the cable for a reverse camera that I also installed. So, thought I would go ahead and match the rear speakers to the front.
I am now wondering if I should take the plunge and add an aftermarket AMP to better drive the four Pioneer's and the factory door subs compared to the factory amp.
Will review other posts for some ideas. I assume if this is the approach - one would need a 6 channel AMP such as the JL Audio XD600/6v2 so you can drive the two fronts/rears an door subs - the thought of running speaker wire to all of the speakers is not pleasant though. Getting off topic for this thread so may start another.
At the moment - have to agree with some others that if you stay with the factory AMP - replacing the rears is questionable in terms of any real gain (the fronts do sound pretty good though!).
#62
GT Member
I replaced the rears this weekend with the Pioneer TSD6802R, drop right in and no speaker adapters required. I did use the Crutchfield connectors. These are the same that I replaced the fronts with.
I have to be honest - was kind of disappointed - the volume level from the rear is pretty low even with the new speakers...
I replaced the factory HU with the DNN991, and am using the factory AMP (which for a 2014 Premium is a 6 channel with built in cross over). I had read other posts that indicated the rears may not be worth the hassle - but - I had to take some of the interior apart anyway to run the cable for a reverse camera that I also installed. So, thought I would go ahead and match the rear speakers to the front.
I am now wondering if I should take the plunge and add an aftermarket AMP to better drive the four Pioneer's and the factory door subs compared to the factory amp.
Will review other posts for some ideas. I assume if this is the approach - one would need a 6 channel AMP such as the JL Audio XD600/6v2 so you can drive the two fronts/rears an door subs - the thought of running speaker wire to all of the speakers is not pleasant though. Getting off topic for this thread so may start another.
At the moment - have to agree with some others that if you stay with the factory AMP - replacing the rears is questionable in terms of any real gain (the fronts do sound pretty good though!).
I have to be honest - was kind of disappointed - the volume level from the rear is pretty low even with the new speakers...
I replaced the factory HU with the DNN991, and am using the factory AMP (which for a 2014 Premium is a 6 channel with built in cross over). I had read other posts that indicated the rears may not be worth the hassle - but - I had to take some of the interior apart anyway to run the cable for a reverse camera that I also installed. So, thought I would go ahead and match the rear speakers to the front.
I am now wondering if I should take the plunge and add an aftermarket AMP to better drive the four Pioneer's and the factory door subs compared to the factory amp.
Will review other posts for some ideas. I assume if this is the approach - one would need a 6 channel AMP such as the JL Audio XD600/6v2 so you can drive the two fronts/rears an door subs - the thought of running speaker wire to all of the speakers is not pleasant though. Getting off topic for this thread so may start another.
At the moment - have to agree with some others that if you stay with the factory AMP - replacing the rears is questionable in terms of any real gain (the fronts do sound pretty good though!).
Last edited by DJ2014; 9/16/14 at 04:57 PM.
#66
Bullitt Member
I replaced the rears this weekend with the Pioneer TSD6802R, drop right in and no speaker adapters required. I did use the Crutchfield connectors. These are the same that I replaced the fronts with.
I have to be honest - was kind of disappointed - the volume level from the rear is pretty low even with the new speakers...
I replaced the factory HU with the DNN991, and am using the factory AMP (which for a 2014 Premium is a 6 channel with built in cross over). I had read other posts that indicated the rears may not be worth the hassle - but - I had to take some of the interior apart anyway to run the cable for a reverse camera that I also installed. So, thought I would go ahead and match the rear speakers to the front.
I am now wondering if I should take the plunge and add an aftermarket AMP to better drive the four Pioneer's and the factory door subs compared to the factory amp.
Will review other posts for some ideas. I assume if this is the approach - one would need a 6 channel AMP such as the JL Audio XD600/6v2 so you can drive the two fronts/rears an door subs - the thought of running speaker wire to all of the speakers is not pleasant though. Getting off topic for this thread so may start another.
At the moment - have to agree with some others that if you stay with the factory AMP - replacing the rears is questionable in terms of any real gain (the fronts do sound pretty good though!).
I have to be honest - was kind of disappointed - the volume level from the rear is pretty low even with the new speakers...
I replaced the factory HU with the DNN991, and am using the factory AMP (which for a 2014 Premium is a 6 channel with built in cross over). I had read other posts that indicated the rears may not be worth the hassle - but - I had to take some of the interior apart anyway to run the cable for a reverse camera that I also installed. So, thought I would go ahead and match the rear speakers to the front.
I am now wondering if I should take the plunge and add an aftermarket AMP to better drive the four Pioneer's and the factory door subs compared to the factory amp.
Will review other posts for some ideas. I assume if this is the approach - one would need a 6 channel AMP such as the JL Audio XD600/6v2 so you can drive the two fronts/rears an door subs - the thought of running speaker wire to all of the speakers is not pleasant though. Getting off topic for this thread so may start another.
At the moment - have to agree with some others that if you stay with the factory AMP - replacing the rears is questionable in terms of any real gain (the fronts do sound pretty good though!).
Although I have spent some serious money in the sound system of my previous cars, I don't think the Mustang is the kind of car I would put 3K worth of stereo equipment.
#67
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Very interesting DJ2014! And thanks for the info and pics!
I was under the impression from other sources that the 2013/2014 with Shaker and Sync had a 6 channel amp with a built in cross-over to drive the door subs.
I have a DNN991 with the Maestro RR - and I wired the front and rear speakers (using RCA) to the preamp side of the Kenwood. I am getting sound from front/rear speakers as well as the door subs. Although, as I mentioned - I do not get a lot of volume from the rears - but - I think the factory set-up was like this as well. I get a lot of sound from the fronts.
Part of this was also based on when others connected the speaker outputs from the Kenwood to the Maestro they were getting some low level hum - and the thought was that the Kenwood was driving the factory amp with an amplified output.
Thanks again for the wiring diagrams - will have to study those...
I was under the impression from other sources that the 2013/2014 with Shaker and Sync had a 6 channel amp with a built in cross-over to drive the door subs.
I have a DNN991 with the Maestro RR - and I wired the front and rear speakers (using RCA) to the preamp side of the Kenwood. I am getting sound from front/rear speakers as well as the door subs. Although, as I mentioned - I do not get a lot of volume from the rears - but - I think the factory set-up was like this as well. I get a lot of sound from the fronts.
Part of this was also based on when others connected the speaker outputs from the Kenwood to the Maestro they were getting some low level hum - and the thought was that the Kenwood was driving the factory amp with an amplified output.
Thanks again for the wiring diagrams - will have to study those...
#68
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I was getting my info on the factory AMP configuration from here:
http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/view...12063&start=30
(5th post on this page)
http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/view...12063&start=30
(5th post on this page)
#69
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I was getting my info on the factory AMP configuration from here:
http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/view...12063&start=30
(5th post on this page)
http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/view...12063&start=30
(5th post on this page)
I didn't have issues with mine because I had used this http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28 interface to go directly to the aftermarket EQ and amp I had installed. The EQ only had one main input so I used the front speaker RCA's to go into that. I did run new speaker wires to all four speakers from the amp in the trunk. It was a fairly easy setup to do, but it was a pain getting new speaker wires thru the door Molex connectors.
I am able to use the fader function on the EQ to adjust the sound instead of the OEM radio fader function. Once I had everything adjusted to way I like it, I am very happy with how it turned out.
I'm glad I came across this thread and was corrected by your more thorough research.
Thanks, David
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David -
thanks for the confirmation! This has been a quite a journey - as I have not dived into car audio in a long, long time. Have learned a lot from others here as well!
Would you mind sharing the diagram of the Shaker/Shaker Pro you found? Just to satisfy my curiosity and for those that come along - always helps to get a schematic view to see what is really going on.
Thanks!
thanks for the confirmation! This has been a quite a journey - as I have not dived into car audio in a long, long time. Have learned a lot from others here as well!
Would you mind sharing the diagram of the Shaker/Shaker Pro you found? Just to satisfy my curiosity and for those that come along - always helps to get a schematic view to see what is really going on.
Thanks!
#72
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Thanks!
That definitely confirms it - there are 4 channels (Front L/R and Rear L/R - 8 audio wires) coming into the Amp, and then 8 channels coming out (Front/Rear and two door subs with dual voice coils - 16 wires) for 2014 Shaker. This would also confirm the factory amp has the cross-over built-in to drive the door subs.
The good news is - I do not have to tear back into my set-up - it is wired correctly! The bad news is - I cannot really adjust those door subs with the Kenwood HU.
Now - if I ever get ambitious - I can put in an aftermarket AMP and run wire to the main speakers - although most have also suggested to replace the door subs also due to the very low impedance of the factory DVC subs. Not sure I want to get that involved at this point - think I will enjoy the current set-up for a while and move onto the performance mods.
Great stuff - thanks again for the diagrams!
That definitely confirms it - there are 4 channels (Front L/R and Rear L/R - 8 audio wires) coming into the Amp, and then 8 channels coming out (Front/Rear and two door subs with dual voice coils - 16 wires) for 2014 Shaker. This would also confirm the factory amp has the cross-over built-in to drive the door subs.
The good news is - I do not have to tear back into my set-up - it is wired correctly! The bad news is - I cannot really adjust those door subs with the Kenwood HU.
Now - if I ever get ambitious - I can put in an aftermarket AMP and run wire to the main speakers - although most have also suggested to replace the door subs also due to the very low impedance of the factory DVC subs. Not sure I want to get that involved at this point - think I will enjoy the current set-up for a while and move onto the performance mods.
Great stuff - thanks again for the diagrams!
#74
Bullitt Member
I just got done replacing the front speakers with Pioneer TSD6802r(?). I cannot believe how so much little cash outlay can improve the stock Shaker 500 Premium system. Calling the Ford speakers Premium is a sin. My alarm clock has better speakers than that garbage. I was ready to shell out some money for a JL Audio mono amp and a JL Audio subwoofer. I think I am going to hold on that thought.
For those who are thinking of doing this, go to Amazon dot com now and get a pair of your favorite 5x7 or 6x8 speakers. Anything is better than the Ford (not so)Premium speakers. I also put some Dynamat behind the replacement speakers and I am sure it helps a little bit.
For those who are thinking of doing this, go to Amazon dot com now and get a pair of your favorite 5x7 or 6x8 speakers. Anything is better than the Ford (not so)Premium speakers. I also put some Dynamat behind the replacement speakers and I am sure it helps a little bit.
#75
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I hope you don't mind me asking this here since I think most guys who've seen the front speakers would know...
I have the '13 Shaker system, the one without a trunk sub, but with the 2-driver front speakers, that comes with the Premium. I've never seen these speakers in person, want to have a plan and gather materials before I start tearing the car apart (I'm terrible at that, the first time on a car).
I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the stock drivers from the plastic frames/mountings. The next step would be to maybe replace them with something else, but that's my prob. So I'm essentially just wondering if the originals can be taken out and the frames re-used. Edit: it's mostly the tweeter that I can't tell from photos I've seen, kinda looks like it's "built-in".
I have some sets of car 2 separate driver speaker systems, some quite small, so one type is bound to fit with some minor "adjustment". They are pretty expensive and I like them, so this has been in the back of my mind instead of getting the Pio TSD6802Rs and the brackets.
Probably somebody has done this already, if it's doable, but an awkward thing to google on. Thanks.
I have the '13 Shaker system, the one without a trunk sub, but with the 2-driver front speakers, that comes with the Premium. I've never seen these speakers in person, want to have a plan and gather materials before I start tearing the car apart (I'm terrible at that, the first time on a car).
I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the stock drivers from the plastic frames/mountings. The next step would be to maybe replace them with something else, but that's my prob. So I'm essentially just wondering if the originals can be taken out and the frames re-used. Edit: it's mostly the tweeter that I can't tell from photos I've seen, kinda looks like it's "built-in".
I have some sets of car 2 separate driver speaker systems, some quite small, so one type is bound to fit with some minor "adjustment". They are pretty expensive and I like them, so this has been in the back of my mind instead of getting the Pio TSD6802Rs and the brackets.
Probably somebody has done this already, if it's doable, but an awkward thing to google on. Thanks.
Last edited by cfraser; 9/21/14 at 12:29 PM.
#76
Bullitt Member
I hope you don't mind me asking this here since I think most guys who've seen the front speakers would know...
I have the '13 Shaker system, the one without a trunk sub, but with the 2-driver front speakers, that comes with the Premium. I've never seen these speakers in person, want to have a plan and gather materials before I start tearing the car apart (I'm terrible at that, the first time on a car).
I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the stock drivers from the plastic frames/mountings. The next step would be to maybe replace them with something else, but that's my prob. So I'm essentially just wondering if the originals can be taken out and the frames re-used. Edit: it's mostly the tweeter that I can't tell from photos I've seen, kinda looks like it's "built-in".
I have some sets of car 2 separate driver speaker systems, some quite small, so one type is bound to fit with some minor "adjustment". They are pretty expensive and I like them, so this has been in the back of my mind instead of getting the Pio TSD6802Rs and the brackets.
Probably somebody has done this already, if it's doable, but an awkward thing to google on. Thanks.
I have the '13 Shaker system, the one without a trunk sub, but with the 2-driver front speakers, that comes with the Premium. I've never seen these speakers in person, want to have a plan and gather materials before I start tearing the car apart (I'm terrible at that, the first time on a car).
I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the stock drivers from the plastic frames/mountings. The next step would be to maybe replace them with something else, but that's my prob. So I'm essentially just wondering if the originals can be taken out and the frames re-used. Edit: it's mostly the tweeter that I can't tell from photos I've seen, kinda looks like it's "built-in".
I have some sets of car 2 separate driver speaker systems, some quite small, so one type is bound to fit with some minor "adjustment". They are pretty expensive and I like them, so this has been in the back of my mind instead of getting the Pio TSD6802Rs and the brackets.
Probably somebody has done this already, if it's doable, but an awkward thing to google on. Thanks.
I am not sure what speaker system you have. The Pioneer speakers that everybody talks about in here is pretty good. And this is coming from a guy who is using a $350 front speaker system in my BMW.
#77
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I have seen somebody do it. I am just not sure from this forum or from somewhere else. The easier path is just to buy an aftermarket mounting plate where you can mount your component speakers. I am not sure what speaker system you have. The Pioneer speakers that everybody talks about in here is pretty good. And this is coming from a guy who is using a $350 front speaker system in my BMW.
I've looked at Polk audio on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?R=32...160_em_1p_0_ti
http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?R=32...160_em_1p_1_ti
I don't really understand enough about it to know what the best option is.
Music choice: Rock, Metal, country and pop stuff. Mostly rap or electronic/dance for the bass notes.
Budget: under $300 for the pair of front speakers.
I've heard good things about the pioneers. They will save me money and headaches because they are a component speaker versus these Polk audios, which are seperates and will require me to mount the tweeter somewhere.
I'm prepared to do that IF the extra labour AND the extra costs outweigh the pioneer speakers.
I just finished painting and clear coating and wet sanding a fiberglass speaker enclosure for my mustang!!! It's now grabber blue and matches my car perfectly, but the iphone app won't let me upload pics. Maybe when I get on the computer I'll throw them on.
#78
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I did find a thread here where the guy re-used the original front 2-driver speakers as mounting brackets. He has some good pics, but what he did was cut out the front face where the speakers are, then use the frames to mount the Pio speakers everyone's talking about. Looks fine, and it's not like anyone's going to want to put the originals back anyway.
Ah, found it again: https://themustangsource.com/forums/...-heavy-520015/
I wanted to do something slightly different than that, and actually wanted to mount the drivers to the original mounts without cutting the faces out; it's theoretically doable with my separate driver speakers, but I'd likely have to destroy the stock tweeter. I guess I'll never know for sure without the speaker in hand. Probably not worth the effort, but these mounts are pretty expensive in Canada compared to the U.S. and I'm not keen on "rewarding" Ford for this crap...I probably will.
Here's the thing: tweeters that are mounted behind a "grille" like they are in our Mustangs will never sound great: too much diffusion and badly aimed in stock locations. You have to get them up and out and more pointed at your ears, and that is why a separate driver setup is better re tweeters. You can leave the mids/woofers/"subs" where they are, that's OK. This would require cutting up your Mustang's plastic a bit, and I know most would never do that. I won't either, but I'm just saying if you really want way better sound, gotta mount the speakers in more appropriate places. Pointless doing this more "serious" speaker stuff without first replacing the head and the amps and the...
I was thinking of using my separate driver speakers in roughly the stock locations, just because I have so much decent spare car audio stuff, and wouldn't need to buy anything including mounts. Work vs $$; 30 or maybe even 20 years ago I'd think nothing of tearing a car apart to get decent sound, nowadays I really like the sound of easy and throwing a few bucks at a prob better.
Ah, found it again: https://themustangsource.com/forums/...-heavy-520015/
I wanted to do something slightly different than that, and actually wanted to mount the drivers to the original mounts without cutting the faces out; it's theoretically doable with my separate driver speakers, but I'd likely have to destroy the stock tweeter. I guess I'll never know for sure without the speaker in hand. Probably not worth the effort, but these mounts are pretty expensive in Canada compared to the U.S. and I'm not keen on "rewarding" Ford for this crap...I probably will.
Here's the thing: tweeters that are mounted behind a "grille" like they are in our Mustangs will never sound great: too much diffusion and badly aimed in stock locations. You have to get them up and out and more pointed at your ears, and that is why a separate driver setup is better re tweeters. You can leave the mids/woofers/"subs" where they are, that's OK. This would require cutting up your Mustang's plastic a bit, and I know most would never do that. I won't either, but I'm just saying if you really want way better sound, gotta mount the speakers in more appropriate places. Pointless doing this more "serious" speaker stuff without first replacing the head and the amps and the...
I was thinking of using my separate driver speakers in roughly the stock locations, just because I have so much decent spare car audio stuff, and wouldn't need to buy anything including mounts. Work vs $$; 30 or maybe even 20 years ago I'd think nothing of tearing a car apart to get decent sound, nowadays I really like the sound of easy and throwing a few bucks at a prob better.
Last edited by cfraser; 9/22/14 at 01:03 PM.
#79
Originally Posted by DJ2014 View Post
Yes, you do need the adapters for the premium cars. I have a 2014 premium V6 and had to use the adapters when I replaced my speakers. Made a world of difference.
"The '13 has a modular component set up which can't be used with aftermarket speakers. The Ford part nbrs for the spacers are;
4R3Z18B947AA - Right Side Door
4R3Z18B947BA - Left Side (Driver) Door"
Would these spacers fit a 2014 Ford Mustang GT Premium? Thanks!!
-Jeffrey
#80
GT Member
Originally Posted by DJ2014 View Post
Yes, you do need the adapters for the premium cars. I have a 2014 premium V6 and had to use the adapters when I replaced my speakers. Made a world of difference.
"The '13 has a modular component set up which can't be used with aftermarket speakers. The Ford part nbrs for the spacers are;
4R3Z18B947AA - Right Side Door
4R3Z18B947BA - Left Side (Driver) Door"
Would these spacers fit a 2014 Ford Mustang GT Premium? Thanks!!
-Jeffrey
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