Ajcruz1

Yes I am referring to the spacers and the Pioneers will fit with them.

Varilux

Great- thanks! Have the speakers coming from Amazon ($63 for the pair), and will check with my dealer for the spacers (see they're available for about $15 a side on-line, but if they have them locally and for a price that's close, I'll just pick em up in person.

Thanks again- along with some sound deadener to get rid of the door rattles, I'm hoping this will improve the sound of my Shaker 500...

Ajcruz1

Yea I did the same. Got some dynomat and put it behind the speakers. Its a pretty good improvement and to get more you could do the rears but they are a pita to change out but also offered a noticeable improvement but not as much as doing the fronts.

Matt's 95 Stang

Thank you so much for the link; it helped alot with mismantle of the doors. For anyone interested in seeing the differnce between the OEM speakers and the Pioneers here you go:
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Again I bought mine off ebay for cheaper than Amazon or Crutchfield.

Matthew

Lothar

You're very welcome, Matt, I'm glad it helped.

So how do those Pioneers sound, assuming you're all done with the install?

Matt's 95 Stang

Yeah I am all done (very easy to install) but I will have to wait till I go to work tomorrow to really hear them. I turned the radio on after install, ya know to make sure I didnt screw something up, and they sounded great. Very clean, pure, no static or cracking.

choate

Can someone clarify if the 11-12 Premium's need the brackets as well? I think I'm gonna order some of these door speakers you all are bragging about. And what are the pigtails you all mention...

Also, the subs seem kind of a cool upgrade but I'm wondering if w/out an aftermarket amp if it would really be much of an improvement? Does anybody have the Shelby Kickers sub replacements in the door?

Matt's 95 Stang

You don't need any bracket. I have a "11 premium and these fit perfect.

NoSlo5oH

Do all of the mounting holes on the Pioneers line up precisely with the factory mounting holes in the doors? Are any mods necessary to install them. Lastly, how much better is the sound quality over stock?

kingofsting

If I remember correctly, each Pioneer speaker will have an extra mounting tab or two that will need to be broken off. No biggie, there's already a crease in the metal to make it easier. Otherwise the speakers bolt right up

Sound is far superior. I installed an X920BT with mine and had to zero out everything and drop the EQ allllll the way down because these speakers get LOUD but stay clear! I have mine cutoff at 100hz

Matt's 95 Stang

I didnt have to cut anything, the holes all lined up fine and I was able to reuse the stock/OEM bolts as I didnt like the ones that came with the new speakers.

Matthew

Shipey

I have two pairs of the Pioneer TS-D6802R that I used in my car for a short time and will sell them (by the pair) for any reasonable offer, plus shipping. They are like new. I do not have the original boxes.

Shipey

From everything I've read, the stock amp doesn't have enough power to drive these well. A tech from Kicker confirmed it for me, as I worked on something to replace the 8" subs and work with the stock amp for about a year. I do have two sets of replacements for that make an improvement in a 2005-12 car, but NOT in a 2013-14 car. Ford changed the amp and speakers in those cars and my testing with an SPL meter confirmed that they put out more bass than a 2005-12 car.

Varilux

Grateful for all the info on this thread, so thought I would "pay it forward" with some info/pics taken while replacing the left door speaker in my '14 GT with Shaker 500 premium system (right one will go in at halftime ).

I've replaced a number of speakers over the years- and I have to say this was the easiest I've seen (if you are on the fence and haven't replaced speakers before, it doesn't get easier than this).

The steps are laid out in the pics...
1) Prepare the door panel for removal...

• Pull the mirror control panel straight out (remove plug)
• Pop out the panel behind the door lever (I use a paint can opener with a plastic hotel key card- those plastic cards are gold for working on all sorts of stuff)
• Pop out the panel behind the door handle
• Pop up the window control panel (pull up on the front of the panel & remove plug)
• Pop up the door lock surround

2) Remove the door panel (you really don't have to detach the latch cable)...

• Remove bolts from door (7mm)
• Remove Torx nuts (T30)
• Pull the panel up and out

3) Remove the speaker...

• Remove 3 bolts (6mm, which I didn't have- used 1/4" socket)
• Snip the white plastic pop-on connector
• Disconnect plug

4) Install the new speaker. You can use a Metra 72-5600 connector, but my local BestBuy was out of them. Fortunately, the young man in the audio department was able to tell me the wire colors:
Left door speaker = (+) White (-) White/Brown (or Green/Gray)
Right door speaker = (+) White/Purple (-) White/Orange (or Purple/Yellow)

• Snip two parts off new speaker
• Mount into Ford speaker brackets (avail online) with 4 provided screws
• Install speaker/bracket

I'll admit the new speaker bracket didn't go in easily (two posts would line up, but not the third). On the right speaker, I'm going to try mounting the bracket first- then the speaker.

5) Enjoy dramatically better sound! Really, I've never noticed such an improvement with a single pair of aftermarket speakers... Stock speakers are usually crap- but Ford really cheaped out on these.

Varilux

Installed the right speaker over halftime (well, they were one minute into the 2nd half when I was back in my chair- but that included 5 minutes of just listening to the speakers )...

A couple more observations...
1.) Its MUCH easier to install the speaker bracket first- then install the speaker in the bracket.
2.) Its easiest to pry the panel behind the door release handle from the back edge and the panel behind the door handle pull from the bottom (work the can opener into the back edge, then slide it around to the bottom and yank).
3.) You don't have to snip the white plastic rivet when removing the stock speaker- just cut the tape holding the speaker wire to the white rivet.

Also, I can now crank the volume all the way up with no vibrations in the door. The only places I put DynaMat was on the back of the "woofer" housing (which seems to have improved the lower end too), and the back of the door panel (on my door, where the red leather is with the pony emblem). Ford actually seems to have done a pretty good job of deadening the door itself (but man, those speakers are cheap- I usually keep the factory speakers... these went straight into the garbage).

For the places you need to put DynaMat, one box (4 square ft.) was enough for me.

choate

Just curious, what are the two sets you have?

Awesome write up man. Thanks! Quick dumb question, so what is the benefit of using the harnass you said they were out of? I'm just wondering what all I would need to get this set up

Varilux

What is the benefit of using the harnass you said they were out of? I'm just wondering what all I would need to get this set up.

If you get 2 of the Metra 72-5600 connectors, you can plug into the factory socket for the speaker (the main benefit being the ability to easily retain correct polarity). As I mentioned, I went into BestBuy hoping to get the connectors, but the fellow had done a couple of F150 installs that day and used all his up.

Fortunately, he was able to give me the color codes for the wires- so really its pretty easy to hook the speakers up without the harness (you just use the wires that come with the speakers, snip the factory socket, and connect the wires).

Good luck with your install... On my drive to work and back today I realized these speakers really shine if you turn the fader a couple clicks towards the front (at that point, the rear speakers are just filling in some mid-range and it really sets the sound stage up nicely).

Shipey

[QUOTE=choate;6710275]Just curious, what are the two sets you have?


I have two sets of Bazooka WF621.5DV that are mounted to CNC machined aluminum adapters. They sound better than stock in my car, although they are 6.5" instead of 8.0". They are made to fit the stock hole, behind the stock speaker grill and trim ring. I worked on this project for many months, as I was looking for something that would work with the stock door sub amp. The magnets on these speakers are huge compared to stock.

At one point I considered trying to start a small business to put these together and sell them, but it's cost prohibitive.

choate

Interesting w/ your comment about polarity. From everything I'm reading now, it says the Metra Harness has it backwards and the only correct one is from Crutchfield. I did buy one from Amazon, and I went by Best Buy and both are "backwards" according to this thread. Post #41. Any thoughts on that?

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ocedure-3.html

choate

Alright guys, I went w/ the Pioneers and installed them this morning! Sound improvement is unreal!! Couple tips from my experience.....First of all, this was pretty easy - just took some time. I had a little difficulty getting the ends of the metra harness on the metal prongs of the speaker. Maybe I'm just a noobie but I thought it would just slide on there. Nope, I had to get pliers and squeeze the hard plastic tips that surround the M shaped ends of the harness so that they would go on the speaker metal + - ends. Other than that, the only other minor hang up I had was the panel where you pull the door shut. It would seem that you pull it off from the bottom b/c that it where it's "loose". Not the case, you have to go in from the top and it will pop right off. Also, my speakers where held in place by 15T screws, not 6mm like the OP. Luckily I had a torx set. It would have sucked if I didn't and would have had to stop and go to the hardware store. Just might want to have that handy in case. Other than that, this thread made it very easy and I'm super happy w/ the sound!!