Hytek

Where's a good place to run the power wire for an amp through the firewall? I'm thinking 8 guage would be sufficient. I don't want to drill a hole. I found a spot on the driver side where there's already a grommet and something going through it. It's to the left of the brake master cylinder. Has anyone went through this or know where it goes?

watchdevil

You can use that just fine!

RobDis

This thread shows a good place. You have to remove the wheel and the wheel well plastic cover. But its an excellent write in on installing amp and how to removed the interior!

Hytek

Ok cool thanks guys! I'm going to start messing around with it this weekend. I'll post back what I end up doing.

RobDis

Man I forgot the link. https://themustangsource.com/f803/ho...s-pics-494868/

Hytek

No worries! I actually found that after your post so I figured that's what you were referring to.

RobDis

I think I posted that late at night after working 12 hours and going home the next morning. Needless to say my mind was not running on all 8 cylinders!

Hytek

That write up really helped! I ended up running the power wire through the passenger front wheel well in through the firewall. The step by step instructions made it super simple. Hardest part today was finding a fuse to tap into for the remote wire. You'd think the radio fuse would work but it kept constant power to the amp even with the key off. I used fuse #35 which was a spare and only supplied power with the key on.

RobDis

That post is one of the best Ive seen for this type of mod. The PAC AOEM-FRD24 I purchased has a remote wire that you can use as well. Once I have it installed and it works like I hope it will I'll use that to turn on the amps. Right now im using a fuse in the fuse box as well. Its kind of good because it turns off the amps when I turn the key off even though the radio stays on till I open the door. Gonna try to install that tomorrow once I get my RCA's. Waiting on the UPS man!

Hytek

Let me know how that goes. I might consider doing that afterall. Not sure how safe the the fuse box route is, but it'll work for now. I tried a fuse tap but no signal for some reason.

RobDis

Ok so I stopped at Best Buy on my way home from work and they had a Kicker ZX400.1 marked down to $75. Guess it was a display or something. I was needing a new amp so I can drop my big one off for repair.

My Stinger 4 channel RCA's came in so I installed the AOEM-FRD24 as well and ran the RCA's. First I will review the PAC AOEM-FRD24. This thing is a must have for your interior speakers! Though to install it was a PITA due to the radio plug have very little slack in them and if you have big hands it will be hard to get to them to unplug them. Also the area behind the radio isnt very accomodating to the extended wires and box for the FRD24. But it went in and works awesome. I had everything running through my Kicker KX3 and the rear 6x9's sounded horrible at the highest volume I listen to my music at! So I removed the KX3 from the equation and voila! Sounded awesome again! I dont know if the crossover is defective or its a conflict with the amp or what. So I turned the high pass crossover on the amp on and tuned it to my liking. Oh and if you bought the FRD24 dont turn the gain controls on it all the way up, each channel has one. I have the gain all the way down on my amplifier and its still louder than the front speakers, way louder! Gonna do some balancing tomorrow. I also removed the ZX400.1 from the KX3 and Im relying on the crossover in the amp to give a clean bass signal. After alot of tuning I have it sounding very nice just running off the LOC tied into my rear speaker wires. But the "roll off" is still there but not as pronounced as it was on the KX3 crossover. Tomorrow I will dig around and find the front door speaker amps and tie my LOC into it and run an RCA for the subwoofer and get a good bass signal that way and maybe the "roll off" problem will be fixed.

So the short review is this. The AOEM-FRD24 is a must have. Much cleaner than tapping into the rear speaker wires. Its plug and play. The Kicker KX3 was a waste of money for me. Still not sure if its broken or Im not tuning it right. Ill do a little more research on that. I was going to buy a stronger 12 inch sub and run my 800 watt Kicker amp but with the 400 watt monoblock it is jamming my CVR pretty well. If i get a better bass signal from the factory amplifier I think the system will be perfect.

Hytek

I think I will try that next. I have time this weekend to mess around with it more. Where'd you end up getting that harness from?

Btw that's a heck a deal on that amp!

RobDis

I got it off Ebay. I dont think these are the guys i bought from but this is about what I paid.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAC-F...Q5fAccessories

Yes the amp was a killer deal. They had an Alpine 1000 watt RMS Monoblock amp as well for $129 but 1000 watts was going to be too much for my 400 watt CVR to handle. Plus i already had a bass **** for the kicker. Its a strong small amp, less than half the lenth of my 800 watt and I was able to move all my amps inside the car so now when you look in the trunk all you see is the amp rack with looks like a carpeted wall between the trunk and cabin of the car.