MRGTX

By now, we all know that the 5.0L Coyotes in any form take boost extremely well, with the Roadrunner (Boss 302--not Plymouth!) version and the '15+ S550 versions having significantly more potential on stock components. I honestly don't know how the F-150 variants fare here...

So looking at the version of the motor that most of us on this forum have, how far can we push it with a bolt on supercharger (or turbo) and still expect to have a long life out of the motor?

Most information suggests that replacing the stock oil pump gears is a necessity. What's the next weak link?

Does anyone here have a boosted '11-'14 Coyote with lots of miles? How's it holding up? Any regrets?

Stage_3

Sounds like you are getting ready to pull the trigger! lol
Oil pump gears and crank sprocket are must do's. Only if you really push the car all the way up the RMP range. I would say most supercharged cars last a long time when cared for. (If I build my car, I am having them done.)
As far as pushing the stock Coyote engine, I have heard and read anywhere from 650RWHP-700RWHP. The 700RWHP being on the way risky side, of course. It all depends on how the car is driven as well. I baby mine, but I do get on it once in a while.
Good luck!!!

MRGTX

Thanks! This is great information and very encouraging.
I had been hearing about the oil pump gears but the crank sprocket is a new one to me. I will definitely look into this!

I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger but I'm heading in that direction. I have to make a decision about upgrading the stock/original suspension components in my 44 year old Dodge or making adding a bunch of power to the Mustang.

These are good problems to have.

Stage_3

HA HAAAAA
Good problems to have indeed. Good luck!!

CSM198 GT/SC

need to change the oil pump gear and the lower chain sprocket if pushing over 650 WRH. The lower end as a forged crankshaft, but the rods and pistons will be the next weak spot.

I have a 2014 that from day one the lower block was redone with all forged parts and ARP hardware on the rods and the main caps. CNC ported heads with ARP stud kit and stage 3 cams. I run about 20psi boost from the S/C. Engine is tune for the street (daily driver) for over 2 1/2 years with 53000 miles. Still killing Chevy ZO6, Dodge 397 Hemi and other Mustangs.

change the oil at 3000 miles and you will not have any problems

sqidd

There is a TON of incorrect information in here. That is because people parrot the bad information they have read somewhere else.

Oil pump gears (OPG) do not break from HP..........................period. There is no difference between 400 and 1000hp as far as they're concerned. OPG's break because of two things. Harmonics and crap belt tensioner design.

High RPM's create exponentially more harmonics in the motor. Putting billet OPG's in is an effective Band Aid most of the time, but they're just that, a Band Aid. The real solution to the problem is a good quality harmonic balancer like ATI. Ford Racing did a balancer test when they built the first Coyote Cobra Jet. Only one balancer out of I think it was 9 had less harmonics than the stock one. It was the ATI. That's why the Cobra Jets have ATI balancers.

If you're running a belt driven blower a bad tensioner design will murder OPG's. When the tensioners bottom out they slam the crank snout just as hard as hitting it with a hammer. I have seen some of the bad designs out there shatter billet OPG's.

Blown CS

Yes and bouncing off the rev limiter is hard on the gears.

Blown CS

Back to the real question; as long as you're running a good tune, stay within reason on the pulley size and running quality gas you should be good on mileage.
OPG's can be done for piece of mind, but I know of several that dont run them and have not had an issue. Most of these guys run the strip regularly and push the motor beyond what Im comfortable with on my SC motor without an issue.

slow.stang

Thank you for saving me the time, HP has absolutely no bearing on the OPGs, this gets repeated so many times I get tired of arguing it.

SpectreH

Yep, Sqidd's comments make perfect sense to me. I always wondered how HP was supposed to affect the OPG's (it can't). I figured raising the redline could do it (I was right), and I never guessed about a crappy tensioner, but it makes sense to me.

Stage_3

Yes, I agree the "proper" way to do this is to do the ATI balancer as well, but most, (on mustang6g.com, Probably 65%), are getting away with the "band-aid" OPGs and crank sprocket. But, that's their choice/call. LOL
I would do all 3 as well just to be sure and have peace of mind.

5.M0NSTER

What is it about higher RPM that can cause OPGs to break? Is it that if you bounce off the rev limiter at 7200 vs 6800 there is more energy that the OPGs have to absorb?

SpectreH

Stress induced by higher RPM harmonics is what causes them to fail. You'd get the same result if you left the engine unboosted and retuned for a higher redline.

5.M0NSTER

This is why I'm asking. The Steeda tune, among many others increases the redline. My tune from Steeda changes is from 6800 to 7200 RPM.

Does that mean I have to worry about OPG failure? I don't think so. At least I hope not. I'm sure lots of people with Bama or Steeda and other tunes would have run into this already.

Does 400 RPM increase the harmonics past the point of no return? I would guess not. So it it the RPM itself that leads to OPG failure, or is it bouncing off the rev limiter at highter RPM...

slow.stang

unless you're speaking of a turbo, you have to consider the crank is now turning a supercharger which will introduce more vibration.

sqidd

Both

sqidd

That is incorrect. You will have the same or less vibration.

Crank snout loading is a different subject.

FromZto5

Wow... looks like I read this thread right on time, as it's getting "juicy".

Mike - you and your threads. They're always a thinker. I like that.

I think most of the experts have chimed in on here already, so that's good. I'm not an expert by any means, but I've been running my setup for a few years now, and she's healthy as a horse. That could be due to the low miles and me never ever drag stripping or racing it - but hey, either way, she pulls strong.

She runs at about 9 psi, and puts down about 600 at the wheels. And it has the crappy stock OPG's, crank sprocket, you name it. But she runs excellent - has about 16k miles now I think.

LOL Tony... I am laughing at your comment about babying your ride. With you having only 1000 miles (or is it 3000? I don't remember)... either way, I think your data point for source of failure is flawed, because it is in perfect shape At that pace, your car will last FOREVER!

Stage_3

HA HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
I have a little over 3k on the green machine. She is babied, but I do get on the "GO" pedal every once in a while. You have to!!

FromZto5

Getting on the "GO" pedal means mashing it, Tony. I can almost guarantee you have never mashed it. Maybe gradually depressing it to reach 1/2 throttle. Am I right?

But yeah, if everyone drove it like you or I did, technically, our stock blocks could have 2000hp.