sort of a miss or stutter
8/6/16, 12:15 PM
#1
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sort of a miss or stutter
Hi just hoping someone can help me diagnose a problem.
Under hard acceleration I seem to be getting a miss or stuttering.
My 05 GT has about 50K miles is basically stock with Steeda CAI
I did the plugs about 2K miles ago, changed to champions and I cleaned the throttle body.
A few weeks ago I did get the P2106 & P2135 codes. I figured it might even be bad connections to the TPS and Actuator motor.
So I plugged and unplugged them a few times and reset the codes, all has been well.
Now I am getting this stuttering under hard acceleration. It idles fine, runs fine until you really giver.
I thought maybe a bad plug, but it idles/runs nice with no miss.
It doesn't show any codes. I suspect maybe the TPS problem is back, but why no codes.
Just for the hell of it yesterday I reloaded the Steeda tune, but still get the stuttering.
Oh and another thing I didn't check the price for a TPS sensor up here, but is it likely to cure both those codes.
Is it just advisable to just get a whole new Ford Racing throttle body for around $175 versus TPS sensor and maybe a Actuator motor.
Under hard acceleration I seem to be getting a miss or stuttering.
My 05 GT has about 50K miles is basically stock with Steeda CAI
I did the plugs about 2K miles ago, changed to champions and I cleaned the throttle body.
A few weeks ago I did get the P2106 & P2135 codes. I figured it might even be bad connections to the TPS and Actuator motor.
So I plugged and unplugged them a few times and reset the codes, all has been well.
Now I am getting this stuttering under hard acceleration. It idles fine, runs fine until you really giver.
I thought maybe a bad plug, but it idles/runs nice with no miss.
It doesn't show any codes. I suspect maybe the TPS problem is back, but why no codes.
Just for the hell of it yesterday I reloaded the Steeda tune, but still get the stuttering.
Oh and another thing I didn't check the price for a TPS sensor up here, but is it likely to cure both those codes.
Is it just advisable to just get a whole new Ford Racing throttle body for around $175 versus TPS sensor and maybe a Actuator motor.
8/6/16, 02:12 PM
#2
Legacy TMS Member
I'd be finding a complete throttle body. As much as they want for them used, I'd probably just get a new one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FORD-RACING-THROTTLE-BODY-ASSEMBLY-55MM-4-6L-V8-2005-10-MUSTANG-GT/231915536079?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D49af66b3abd9475083e761c34718d7dd%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D381721851691
Or just get the two pieces straight up and pop them on:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...t-pBoCNKzw_wcB
http://www.partsgeek.com/j2c9g7d-for...tle+Body+Motor
(All are but examples)
When you consider the replacement motor and sensor is about half the whole thing, might as well get the whole thing new, actually, IMO, but what do I know.
I'd be also considering replacing the champion sparks with the stock ones. Yeah, I know, the split plugs, but I've seen posts about those champions. Some have good luck, some don't. I went stock, and nickle anti-seize, and I have the extractor and know how to use it, so it don't bother me as much.
Unless you're gonna go tune it, don't go 'not stock', IMO, on the throttle body, or anything, really. If you go outside of the envelope, you get to chase stuff. If you're into that kind of thing, hey, go for it, but if you want a driver, well... stock is best on these computer cars.
Oh, and I always disconnect the negative terminal before I clean the throttle body, or anything that changes from what it 'knows' currently (sparks, COP, MAF, anything it senses) then relearn the computer. Makes a big difference, ya ask me. First time I didn't do that, the car ran like *crap.*.
Finally, did ya do the throttle relearn trick? Turn the key on, but do not start, depress pedal slowly to the floor board within about 5 seconds, release completely, then start car? It does work, I wouldn't say it if I didn't have experience with it.
Dunno if any of that helps, but either way, good luck, hope you find it!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FORD-RACING-THROTTLE-BODY-ASSEMBLY-55MM-4-6L-V8-2005-10-MUSTANG-GT/231915536079?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D49af66b3abd9475083e761c34718d7dd%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D381721851691
Or just get the two pieces straight up and pop them on:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...t-pBoCNKzw_wcB
http://www.partsgeek.com/j2c9g7d-for...tle+Body+Motor
(All are but examples)
When you consider the replacement motor and sensor is about half the whole thing, might as well get the whole thing new, actually, IMO, but what do I know.
I'd be also considering replacing the champion sparks with the stock ones. Yeah, I know, the split plugs, but I've seen posts about those champions. Some have good luck, some don't. I went stock, and nickle anti-seize, and I have the extractor and know how to use it, so it don't bother me as much.
Unless you're gonna go tune it, don't go 'not stock', IMO, on the throttle body, or anything, really. If you go outside of the envelope, you get to chase stuff. If you're into that kind of thing, hey, go for it, but if you want a driver, well... stock is best on these computer cars.
Oh, and I always disconnect the negative terminal before I clean the throttle body, or anything that changes from what it 'knows' currently (sparks, COP, MAF, anything it senses) then relearn the computer. Makes a big difference, ya ask me. First time I didn't do that, the car ran like *crap.*.
Finally, did ya do the throttle relearn trick? Turn the key on, but do not start, depress pedal slowly to the floor board within about 5 seconds, release completely, then start car? It does work, I wouldn't say it if I didn't have experience with it.
Dunno if any of that helps, but either way, good luck, hope you find it!
Last edited by houtex; 8/6/16 at 02:13 PM.
8/6/16, 08:07 PM
#3
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Hey Houtex that's what I was thinking with the throttle body, by the time you get the TPS sensor and get the Actuator you might as well get the Ford Racing throttle body and you are all new.
Since I reset the codes I'm not going into limp mode or getting the codes, but it could very well be something to do with the TPS/Actuator.
I thought maybe crappy Champions right away, but it idles nice and seems to run real good until high rpm so I don't think it is a plug issue.
I was thinking a bad COP, but wouldnt that throw a code?
When I cleaned the throttle body I did disconnect the battery and do the throttle relearn thing and car ran great afterwards.
My friend said a simple thing might be a fuel filter...or
A bad champion that craps out at high rpm or a TPS/Throttle Actuator/Throttle body issue.
Since I reset the codes I'm not going into limp mode or getting the codes, but it could very well be something to do with the TPS/Actuator.
I thought maybe crappy Champions right away, but it idles nice and seems to run real good until high rpm so I don't think it is a plug issue.
I was thinking a bad COP, but wouldnt that throw a code?
When I cleaned the throttle body I did disconnect the battery and do the throttle relearn thing and car ran great afterwards.
My friend said a simple thing might be a fuel filter...or
A bad champion that craps out at high rpm or a TPS/Throttle Actuator/Throttle body issue.
8/6/16, 09:45 PM
#4
Legacy TMS Member
COP should throw a code, yes.
Possible on the Champions, why I mentioned it.
Fuel filter's a good idea.
After that...
Might need a scan tool at that point. Not just a reader.
Possible on the Champions, why I mentioned it.
Fuel filter's a good idea.
After that...
Might need a scan tool at that point. Not just a reader.
11/3/16, 05:11 PM
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UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE
Ok here goes....sort of a miss was sort of a pain in the a$$
I had and cleared the TPS and TP actuator trouble codes...they never did come back
but I figured it was only a matter time from what I have read, so I ordered one of those Ford Racing throttle bodies from AM. Oh and I did the fuel filter too.
Well that didn't cure my sort of a miss under heavy load problem. I wondered maybe it is those Champion 7989 that I put in. I kept my old Motocraft plugs when I put the Champions in. I put the Motocraft plugs back in....miss went away rrrrrrrrrrrrr stupid Champions.
Ok so now what, there isn't a whole lot of choice for plugs. I didn't really want to put new Motocraps in just because of the whole 2 piece issue, you never know if they are going to cause you a problem.
I decided to give the E3 3.70 plugs a try. They are a one piece design, not platinum though. I noticed that Canadian Tire stores in Canada carries them. The E3s are about $80 for 8, the Champions in Canada are about $200 for 8. I had about $65 in Canadian Tire points so I figured what the hell, the plugs were only about $15 then.
I did read where somebody on a forum said that the E3 quality control isn't that great being made in China. I picked through a bunch of packs at the store to make sure I got good ones.
So now I'm ready to change the plugs AGAIN!!! You will laugh at this part. Just a bit of my mechanical background. I have worked on cars of my own for 30 years. I am not working in the field anymore, but I am an aircraft maintenance engineer (structures) you get the idea I am not a total idiot anyways.
When I do the plugs I just change one out at a time, so you don't have a bunch of open holes. So I swap out the first plug. I go to put the cop back on...hmmm that's odd its a little tight. I just figured I guess the boot is a little tighter on the E3. Ok so now I go to swap out the 2nd plug. The E3s have a 5/8 nut....why is the plug all loose. LOL..light bulb goes on...ok so I left the 5/8 spark plug socket rubber behind on the first plug. WTF well no wonder why the cop was tight going on the first E3 plug, there was a small rubber boot on it already!!!!! I pulled the first cop off again. I had to laugh the spark plug rubber was pushed inside the cop, it looked like it was made that way LOL.
I just grabbed another 5/8 spark plug socket and changed them all out. When I fired the car up there was definitely a miss. I thought WTF not again. The miss went away I guess the computer had to learn the new plugs for whatever reason.
Well anyways the E3s are running great, maybe even a little better than the Motocraft, but the E3s are new and don't have 45k on them.
So maybe my dumba$$ experience can help someone else out. The Champions from what I have read are real hit and (pardon the pun) miss. Maybe the Champions work better in a totally stock motor, no CAI. The weird thing with the Champions was upon initial fire up they ran great, idle was always smooth, nothing showed up until I really gaver...go figure.
Ok here goes....sort of a miss was sort of a pain in the a$$
I had and cleared the TPS and TP actuator trouble codes...they never did come back
but I figured it was only a matter time from what I have read, so I ordered one of those Ford Racing throttle bodies from AM. Oh and I did the fuel filter too.
Well that didn't cure my sort of a miss under heavy load problem. I wondered maybe it is those Champion 7989 that I put in. I kept my old Motocraft plugs when I put the Champions in. I put the Motocraft plugs back in....miss went away rrrrrrrrrrrrr stupid Champions.
Ok so now what, there isn't a whole lot of choice for plugs. I didn't really want to put new Motocraps in just because of the whole 2 piece issue, you never know if they are going to cause you a problem.
I decided to give the E3 3.70 plugs a try. They are a one piece design, not platinum though. I noticed that Canadian Tire stores in Canada carries them. The E3s are about $80 for 8, the Champions in Canada are about $200 for 8. I had about $65 in Canadian Tire points so I figured what the hell, the plugs were only about $15 then.
I did read where somebody on a forum said that the E3 quality control isn't that great being made in China. I picked through a bunch of packs at the store to make sure I got good ones.
So now I'm ready to change the plugs AGAIN!!! You will laugh at this part. Just a bit of my mechanical background. I have worked on cars of my own for 30 years. I am not working in the field anymore, but I am an aircraft maintenance engineer (structures) you get the idea I am not a total idiot anyways.
When I do the plugs I just change one out at a time, so you don't have a bunch of open holes. So I swap out the first plug. I go to put the cop back on...hmmm that's odd its a little tight. I just figured I guess the boot is a little tighter on the E3. Ok so now I go to swap out the 2nd plug. The E3s have a 5/8 nut....why is the plug all loose. LOL..light bulb goes on...ok so I left the 5/8 spark plug socket rubber behind on the first plug. WTF well no wonder why the cop was tight going on the first E3 plug, there was a small rubber boot on it already!!!!! I pulled the first cop off again. I had to laugh the spark plug rubber was pushed inside the cop, it looked like it was made that way LOL.
I just grabbed another 5/8 spark plug socket and changed them all out. When I fired the car up there was definitely a miss. I thought WTF not again. The miss went away I guess the computer had to learn the new plugs for whatever reason.
Well anyways the E3s are running great, maybe even a little better than the Motocraft, but the E3s are new and don't have 45k on them.
So maybe my dumba$$ experience can help someone else out. The Champions from what I have read are real hit and (pardon the pun) miss. Maybe the Champions work better in a totally stock motor, no CAI. The weird thing with the Champions was upon initial fire up they ran great, idle was always smooth, nothing showed up until I really gaver...go figure.
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