berzerk_1980

Glad to hear it and thanks for the confirmation.

Shorti Reed

The same thing as others. Seat will not go forward. I took the car to North Side Ford in San Antonio Texas. They called and said the service manual said the cushion side shield would break when removed to fix the switch and would need to be replaced? At cost to me.... Well I have a Ford shop manual part# FCS1219306 section 501-10-45 shows how to remove and replace the part. It has no mention of the part breaking. Is this normal? Or am I being taken for a ride to pay for there mess up?

Getportfolio

That's silly! North side ford is wrong. I had my seats taken completely apart to repair and instal new leather covers.

Shorti Reed

Thanks.. That's what I thought... I also had a check engine light. I ask North Side Ford to check.. They said it needs all new fuel rails and sensors. $1,500 ? It only has 27,000 miles and is a garage kept Sunday driver. It was running fine when I took it in? As you know you cant get the number of a zone rep. what can you do, I need the car. They have had it for three days.

houtex

They are not wrong. I have proof, my left side cushion cover is broken. I've just not fixed it yet. A: they are not exactly cheap. B: I'm going to recover the things soon enough, and I know how to fix it without buying one... or even repairing it, which I do not believe to be a possible... I think... we'll see. If there's enough meat on the broken tab, I have a Plan(tm). Includes a hole and a ziptie. I'll let y'all know. Heh.

To the meat of the discussion: There *is* a flaw in the '05-09 seats where the tabs that secure the cover will break off rather than let go. It's a really dumb design, you ask me. Same as those ones in the trunk. Alligator retainer clips of spring metal capturing and grabbing in like a pitcher plant, coupled with the thin, relatively weak and not very well reinforced plastic tab. Well. You can tell I think it's a not-so-great idea overall.

I mean, sure, it's *great* for assembly, and as long as you don't mess with it, it'll last for dang near ever. But you so much as pull or push down (like maybe misstep when trying to wipe down the center of your top, maybe?) or some other unfortunate situation... *SNAP!* And then it is broken.



There is another problem. It's that by pulling that tab outta the clips, you're 'going the wrong way'. Two things happen. The tines dig in to the plastic, gouging it really deeply. That pretty much ruins the ability of the clips to retain the tab, as there's no more tab to grab there. Moving the clips might work... Also, the clips get bent up and damaged in the process too, so... yeah. It's not ideal, really. I'd rather a couple of screws, m'self.

So get this: The clips *are not* available. They come with the panel new as replacement. I have already done the work to try to get them, so don't try. You'd have to buy the panel anyway. Or get them outta a junk car. I wound up struggling to extract my trunk ones (that's a fun time), then bending the tabs so they'd grip again, then attempting to reposition them so they'd grab 'new' plastic of the trunk light panel.

So. Fun. I hate the design. Oh, and I sorta dare y'all to fix the tabs. They just won't fix. Not worth a darn, not grabbable by the tines, and they'll just break off if they're already broken. I have repaired plastics. A Honda PC800 Pacific Coast has to sorta be done that way. And if it's the right plastic, thick enough, it might fix here... but it's soft, and that just won't.

All that to say this: It may or may not happen. They may pull the thing and it go back on and nobody would know. Or they touch it and it never goes back on right afterwards, and now they have an angry customer. Forget that noise, advise new panel and go on with life.

And as the plastic ages, the chances go up as it becomes brittle. Hence they will hedge their bet. But they should have said "it *might* break... might not. Want to prepare you for that... you cool with us touching it? Or do you want to try to remove it yourself?"

Anyway. Wanted to clarify their reason on this. It's a real thing(tm).

Getportfolio

My cars were 11 and 12 model. I was referring to those. My bad. Didn't realize his was and 05-09 body,

houtex

Cool.

It's fun keeping tabs on who's got what car, right?

/HA! I'm punny!

StrykerXM

Great thread guys!

I inherited a 2009 V6 with the wife and sure enough...same problem, power seat does not move forward but it does go up/down and back.

Pulled the seat out and then got the switch in question out. However when I google the part number it comes up as a Milan switch.

5F9T-14B709-AA

Is that correct?

Rob B

2010 mustang with 55K miles, seat would do everything but move forward. Opened up the switch and used a small piece of sandpaper and contact cleaner and it works great.... for now. Will see how long it lasts. Will be going to junkyard eventually for backups .

texascoder

I have a 2013 5.0 GT with about 70k miles. The drivers power seat will go forward/backward just fine, but will not raise or lower. I can hear the motor sound when I try to raise/lower the seat but no movement. Perhaps something has become dis-engaged? Would this be something that a reasonably handy person (but not a car mechanic) might be able to tackle themselves or should I just take it to a shop and save myself the time and grief?

houtex

If you hear the motor working but the seat is not moving in both directions, the worm gear assembly for that movement has been sheared off and it will have to be replaced. And you *might* can fix it, there's a particular part... as long as it's that part. If it's the other 'side' of the gear assembly, you're done, it's an entire power seat assembly. I want to say it's the worm gear that can't be replaced, only the 'straight' gear.

In any event, I'd advise acquiring a known good power seat assembly, swapping it out with the broken one, and then figuring out if you can fix that broken one.

And no, do NOT try to use metal gears where there's plastic ones. The plastic ones are there for this exact reason: to shear if forces exceed tolerance levels. If they didn't, there'd be more damage than just some gear on the tracks or such.

For the 'how': The seat has to be removed, partially uncovered on the seat, along with the side panel and handles removed, and then four nuts hold the seat track on. Once the seat track is removed, you can assess things, and even use a 12V source to move the motors for testing. You can find the pinouts for the switch wiring here:

http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Seating.pdf

Hope that helps, good luck! And welcome to the forums!

Tammy Schnurr

SAME ISSUE. I AM THINKING A GEAR INSTEAD OF MOTOR. MY RESOLUTION, REPLACE THE WHOLE SYSTEM. IT IS SO INEXPENSIVE TO REPLACE. IT WILL PREVENT FUTURE PROBLEMS WITH THE SEAT.

CuJo23

Do you have the part number for what you replacereplaced?

05stangkc

The Op Posted only One Time Two Years ago So I Doubt You are Going to Get an Answer. The Kit For the Tracks is Available Here. Other Sources Show Backordered. If That is What You Need.

Be Advised if You Go Used Seat Track The Wiring is Different on Early Vs Later Tracks So You Need to Get One With Matching Wiring.

Some New Seat Tracks Are Still Available Depending on Year But are Not Cheap!

ER3Z-78617D66-A

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pow...2014/p/PSTRK1/

KC

CuJo23

Thank you!

05stangkc

You Are Welcome!

Good Luck With the Repair!

KC