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Old 3/11/10, 03:02 PM   #1
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Check charging system

Just put in a new battery a few days ago and now getting a check charging system warning along with the battery light lit. Its a sears die hard battery. This is on a 06 Gt. I find it ironic that this happens right after I put the battery in. I have not checked the voltage yet on the battery but should it not be 13.2 to 14.5 volts with the car running? This is a low mileage car and I find it hard to believe the alternator has gone south already. Car is totally stock also. Any ideas? I did a search but just found it odd that this happens right after I installed a new battery. Thanks.
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Old 3/11/10, 03:06 PM   #2
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Just went though a similar issue with an 05. Seems these alternators are under powered. If your battery was not fully charged maybe you put to much of a draw on the alternator killing the regulator?
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Old 3/11/10, 03:18 PM   #3
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Just went though a similar issue with an 05. Seems these alternators are under powered. If your battery was not fully charged maybe you put to much of a draw on the alternator killing the regulator?
You may be right. How do I test the alternator? Right now the car starts and runs fine but I am afraid to drive it much. The voltage gauge by the way shows it right in the middle. I suppose its a glorified idiot light like the rest. That just burns me that Ford cant put in a real fricken gauge of any type. Also, there is no excuse for putting in an alternator that is too small. This reminds me of my Gm woes in a lot of ways. I though Ford would do a better job than this. The original battery lasted 6 months and the dealer replaced it and the last one made it about 3 years and that was it.

Hopefully somebody could chime in that knows how to test these things. How much is a new alternator by the way?
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Old 3/11/10, 03:21 PM   #4
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Put your voltage meter on the battery while running. You should have 13.xx to 14.xx voltage that fluctuates with RPM. If you have a steady voltage of anything less then the alt is not charging.
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Old 3/11/10, 04:43 PM   #5
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That's why I've been reluctant to get underdrive pulleys. I hate how my current drops on my older cars when I come to a stoplight with A/C or defrost on w/lights & windshield wipers on.
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Old 3/11/10, 05:28 PM   #6
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Battery had a touch over 12 volts not running and 10.8 to 10.9 running. Must be the alternator. The voltage gauge finally moved just a bit but you really have to pay close attention to notice. **** ford and their glorified idiot lights. Now I am left wondering if the alternator killed the last battery too.
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Old 3/11/10, 06:32 PM   #7
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I would remove the alternator and take it to one of your local auto parts store and have them test it.
You are correct the alternator should charging between 13.8 and 14.2 volts. I can look upthe specifications in the shop manual if you want.
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Old 3/11/10, 08:30 PM   #8
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Get it tested but yeah.... Sounds like the alternator.
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Old 3/11/10, 09:10 PM   #9
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I would remove the alternator and take it to one of your local auto parts store and have them test it.
You are correct the alternator should charging between 13.8 and 14.2 volts. I can look upthe specifications in the shop manual if you want.
Thank you for the offer and I appreciate it but I have a shop manual. Im going to take it off and have it tested. I will keep you posted. I dont know what it is but I have had just rotten luck with alternators in general mostly on Gm cars and trucks. I must be hexed.
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Old 3/11/10, 09:51 PM   #10
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Welcome to the club. I also have an '06 GT. I just had battery #4 installed two days ago. Yes, number four. Battery #3 lasted about 8 months - a new low. The average life of a battery in my car is 15 months. I turn everything off prior to shutting down the engine, and always have. The car is unlocked in the garage at night, and is a daily driver. Go figure. Every time they tell me the system checks out and replace the battery under warranty. I wonder how many free batteries I will get before they decide to find out what is up?
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Old 3/12/10, 12:36 AM   #11
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Welcome to the club. I also have an '06 GT. I just had battery #4 installed two days ago. Yes, number four. Battery #3 lasted about 8 months - a new low. The average life of a battery in my car is 15 months. I turn everything off prior to shutting down the engine, and always have. The car is unlocked in the garage at night, and is a daily driver. Go figure. Every time they tell me the system checks out and replace the battery under warranty. I wonder how many free batteries I will get before they decide to find out what is up?
Seems like these cars are plagued with battery problems and electrical drains from somewhere. I understand the OEM battery is probably not a great battery to begin with but there are lots of complaints about this. Does anybody know who makes the alternators and what the specs are on it off the top of their heads? Like someone mentioned I wonder if the output is too small. I have a feeling Ford cut a corner here on us to save 10 bucks.
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Old 3/12/10, 05:42 AM   #12
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My understanding is it's something to do with the amps in the shaker system not turning off. SOme people say turn your stereo off before turning the car off.
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Old 3/12/10, 10:57 AM   #13
 
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Seems like these cars are plagued with battery problems and electrical drains from somewhere. I understand the OEM battery is probably not a great battery to begin with but there are lots of complaints about this. Does anybody know who makes the alternators and what the specs are on it off the top of their heads? Like someone mentioned I wonder if the output is too small. I have a feeling Ford cut a corner here on us to save 10 bucks.
Output is 130A max, which is when your engine is turning at 2000-2500 rpm. At idle, it's something like 70-80A.

Before I upgraded to a PA Performance 200A alternator (which puts out like 130A at idle, 200A @ cruise), I used to always turn my stereo down if I was stopped at a red light for any significant amount of time. ESPECIALLY if I had my headlights + other accessories running.
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Old 3/12/10, 11:02 AM   #14
 
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Comparison between the stock alternator and the PA Performance 200A alternator: see graph

Note that alternator RPM is 2.5x engine RPM. When the engine is at 1000rpm, the alternator is at 2500rpm.



Full review/article:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2.../6GAlternator/
Attached Thumbnails
Check charging system-graph.gif  
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Old 3/12/10, 07:56 PM   #15
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Got a new alternator and put it on and all is well again. I still dont think it should have failed so early. It was not putting out the amps it should have and just went south. I probably should have got a bigger one but thought maybe I just got a bad one. Car is totally stock so I dont have any excess drain on anything. Hopefully, this one will last a lot longer.
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Old 3/16/10, 02:23 PM   #16
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Just checking back in. I am back on the road with my new alternator. Everything seems fine and all is good 300 dollars later. There is no excuse for an alternator going bad as quickly as mine did and I hope Ford reads this. I love them to death but this is why I swore off of GM. Its stuff like this that gets under my skin. Ford, you failed this time and I hope to God you have or will address things like this. I know you can be everything to everybody but when an alternator fails at 20K mile that is not right and not fair to the custormer. GM put junk alternaters on cars and trucks for years. I know this for a fact. I owned a bunch of them and replaced them all the time but they at least lasted about 40K miles. I hated those days. I could not take a trip without worrying about something going wrong. Please step up your game Ford. YOu are better than this.

I am venting in hopes somebody at Ford will read this. Please quit cutting corners and give us a good alternator to begin with!!!!!!!! Remember that saying that quauity is JOB 1? Live up to it and put out better products. I love Ford but sometimes I get frustrated.

I want this to land on Alan Mulallys desk. This is the sort of thing that made people to got to Toyota and nISSAN. Remember that?? I bet Ford does or do they need to be reminded?? Please step up up your game Ford. I have a lot of convidence in you. Lets kill them with world class. You can do it. Give it your b est shot. I am with you and behind you despite my troubles. Go for it. Please just wake up. I know you have and that is my frustration for my prev ious comment. Sorry.

Lets go get them FOMOCO.

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Old 3/16/10, 02:41 PM   #17
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I did a test today and when my car is completely off it's drawing .14 amps and apparently should only be drawing .0somthing at the most. Going to start pulling fuses to find out what's causing it.
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Old 3/17/10, 11:21 AM   #18
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I did a test today and when my car is completely off it's drawing .14 amps and apparently should only be drawing .0somthing at the most. Going to start pulling fuses to find out what's causing it.

Please keep us up to date on this.
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Old 3/17/10, 11:29 AM   #19
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This is the sort of thing that made people to got to Toyota and nISSAN. Remember that?? .
Toyotas issues- accelerate issues, steering issues and suspension and braking issues on all models.

I guess I can live with my alternator which is completely fine after 5+ years. It seems to me you got a faulty alternator.
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Old 3/17/10, 09:59 PM   #20
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Toyotas issues- accelerate issues, steering issues and suspension and braking issues on all models.

I guess I can live with my alternator which is completely fine after 5+ years. It seems to me you got a faulty alternator.
Yeah, I think I just got a bad one. It happens and from what I can tell its not the norm. I had a bunch of chevrolets that the alternators would go out every 40K like clockwork. lol They would never quite charging but the bearings would go out and spit metal shavings everywhere under the hood. Then, they would just lock up. It was quite a site to see when the metal started flying. **** Gm junk. Been there and done that.

I hope this one lasts a long time.
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