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So with my car at 103,000 miles, I figured it was finally time to change the spark plugs for the 1st time, though it was still getting stellar mileage and not having any stumbling, misfiring, etc. - totally preventative maintenance.
Here's how the plugs looked when they came out:
The job was surprisingly easy, having never done plugs before (only car I ever had to do it on had sideways-mounted V6 so I paid to have it done) and I had it all done in <2 hours. However, while I remembered the di-electric grease for the ignition coils, I didn't remember the copper anti-seize compound.
So my question is: how bad will those be to get out when I hit 200K and is it worth going back and redoing the job? Considering it'll probably take me 60 minutes max, I'm guessing yes but wanted to see what anybody thought.
It's not a 4.6 where the spark plug's gonna crumble and seize into the head but, I'd take 'em out and do it right when you are looking at high mileages between changes. It only takes one to get stuck and your life's a living hell.
It's not a 4.6 where the spark plug's gonna crumble and seize into the head but, I'd take 'em out and do it right when you are looking at high mileages between changes. It only takes one to get stuck and your life's a living hell.
Originally Posted by SplitSecond
I would go back and do it. With every heat cycle those go through they will be getting harder and harder to take out.
It may be overly catious to do so, but it will be quick and easy to pop them out and back in again
Originally Posted by SpectreH
I'd pull them and add the anti seize for the peace of mind.
All right, you guys convinced me. Will do it over again!
That's why auto parts stores sell the $1 packets of anti seize at the checkout. I've been using anti seize on my plugs since 1969. My first car was a VW bug
That's why auto parts stores sell the $1 packets of anti seize at the checkout. I've been using anti seize on my plugs since 1969. My first car was a VW bug
Just an FYI, I had mine in for a rare trip to the dealer...needed an emissions test and the driver airbag recall, so I went ahead and let them do the plugs. Set me back $80 for the plugs and $150 for the labor...so you saved yourself some decent $ and have the satisfaction of doing the work yourself.
I can live with it, as I have 5 cars I do the majority of work on. Two girls in college, wife runs a courier route, etc. Sometimes I just have to write the check or I'd spend all my time in a the garage.
Kyle - you rookie you! Were you worried about KC Bbq while you were doing these plugs so that's why you forgot?
But yeah, pop those out and get that anti-s added. I would say maybe you'll sell it or trade it before your next plug change, so then just have it be the issue of the next owner. But........ if you ever had to remove your plugs between now and then, for whatever reason, that will be a PITA for you.
I'm going to go against the grain of the pack here. While anti-seize would probably not hurt anything, it likely isn't necessary since those Motorcraft plugs have a nickel plated shell. In effect, this would do the same thing thing as nickel anti-seize as far as preventing galvanic corrosion. There's a lot of spark plug manufacturers that recommend against using anti-seize for that reason.
FYI ! Ford recommends using nickel anti-seize in it's TSB spark plug removal procedure.. However the TSB addresses the high thread 16mm 2 piece design plugs that were known for separating inside the 2005-early 08 3v heads..
I'm also certain the 3v plugs also had nickel plated shells as well, but never the less it wasn't enough to prevent galvanic corrosion from causing them to separate inside the heads..
As for the standard one piece 12mm plugs used in the re-designed late 08-10 3v heads and 11-14 Coyote 4v heads, IIRC I believe that Ford still recommends using nickel anti-seize to help prevent galvanic corrosion
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 8/17/16 at 02:44 PM.
I'm going to go against the grain of the pack here. While anti-seize would probably not hurt anything, it likely isn't necessary since those Motorcraft plugs have a nickel plated shell. In effect, this would do the same thing thing as nickel anti-seize as far as preventing galvanic corrosion. There's a lot of spark plug manufacturers that recommend against using anti-seize for that reason.
Originally Posted by m05fastbackGT
FYI ! Ford recommends using nickel anti-seize in it's TSB spark plug removal procedure.. However the TSB addresses the high thread 16mm 2 piece design plugs that were known for separating inside the 2005-early 08 3v heads..
I'm also certain the 3v plugs also had nickel plated shells as well, but never the less it wasn't enough to prevent galvanic corrosion from causing them to separate inside the heads..
As for the standard one piece 12mm plugs used in the re-designed late 08-10 3v heads and 11-14 Coyote 4v heads, IIRC I believe that Ford still recommends using nickel anti-seize to help prevent galvanic corrosion
You guys have got me curious now. The Ford-issued workshop manual says nothing about anti-seize (http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=878&viewfile=Spark%20Plugs.pdf), while it does mention needing the dielectric grease on the ignition coils. That makes me think anti-seize isn't needed though it's weird they wouldn't actually say that in writing to remove the confusion for techs that are very used to anti-seize on plugs.
FWIW, the Haynes manual for our cars does suggest anti-seize but doesn't say whether nickel or copper should be used.
8/15/16, 03:46 PM
My first car was a VW bug 
