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Subwoofer Installation - How to?

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Old 4/17/07, 11:10 AM   #1
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Subwoofer Installation - How to?

I've searched around but can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I have an Infinity Basslink, nothing too crazy, just a powered 10" sub in a box. I had it in my 350Z and it added just enough bass to the car to make it enjoyable. I want to install it in my Mustang, but I'd like to see a how-to to see exactly what body panels I'll need to pull off, and how easy it'll be to do the installation.

Anyone have a link to a how-to for a sub install on an 05+ Mustang?
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Old 4/17/07, 12:38 PM   #2
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Well assuming you have the Shaker 500, the right way to do it is by tapping through the factory amps in the driver side kick panel.

a Metra harness (P/N: 70-5521) is all you need to give you a clean pre-amp output which you can use to drive your after market sub/amp.

you will need to pull the driver side sill plate (just hold and pull up!.. it's held down by some double sided tape and clips),
then remove the driver side kick panel (there's one push pin type retainer you need to yank out.. it's closest to your clutch pedal.. once that's out, you can pull the panel easily)
Finally, you need to remove the rear seat cushion (there are two clips under the seat cushion, one on each side.. push these in and lift the seat.. it'll come right off)

that's mostly it.
you still need a switched power source and a ground.. you can probably get these from the passenger fusebox in the side kick panel (remove the sill plate and kick panel same as you did with the driver side) or you can do it the proper way, straight from the battery, through the firewall grommet, and into the passenger side wiring channel.

wish i had some photos to share, but i hope this gets you going in the right direction!
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Old 4/17/07, 02:14 PM   #3
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I DO have the Shaker 500 system. I just want to make sure I understand what you're saying: basically I can plug that Metra adapter into the factory amp behind the kick panel, run the RCA's from that adapter down the driver's side under the sill plate / seats, then all I need to do is get the power down the passenger side, and I'm good to go. Is that correct?
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Old 4/17/07, 02:26 PM   #4
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sorry bud, i got a bit mixed up here with the part name
What you need isn't the Metra harness (that one is needed to install an after market head unit, and utilize the factory wiring, amps and speakers)

what you need is a SoundGate LOCB.2
you will tap the lines from the LOCB.2 into the lines going to the factory amp in the driver side kick panel
then the RCA cables going to the new aftermarket Amp can be plugged straight into the LOCB.2 unit

you can run the sound signal wires on the driver side under the sill plate
and the power/ground down the passenger side.

This is exactly what i have at the moment in my car.
but i've decided to change head units, and finally found a Metra harness which would allow me to do the swap.. so i had the part stuck in my head
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Old 4/17/07, 02:32 PM   #5
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LOL I see. I know how that is, you get focused on one thing and that's all you can think about!

Thanks for the input. I figured a line converter was going to be the best bet, it's actually how I had the Basslink installed in my Z. I'm one of those people who likes the clean, factory look of the stock headunit as opposed to one that doesn't really match, even if I have to sacrifice a bit of sound quality.

This should be easy enough then. Did you encounter any problems I should look out for when you were running your power wire through the grommet in the firewall? Anything else I should keep in mind?

Thanks for the help by the way, I really appreciate it. I'm more mechanically inclined than electrically I suppose, and I always hate messing around with wiring.
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Old 4/17/07, 02:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titanjc View Post
Did you encounter any problems I should look out for when you were running your power wire through the grommet in the firewall? Anything else I should keep in mind?
since you're more mechanically inclined, jack up your car, remove the front right wheel, and the splash sheilds ( you have to undo a few retaining push pins ), the battery, and battery tray

this will give you access to the other side of the grommet, and you can then easily guide the wire up right under the battery, through a gap in the metal panels, rather than having to take the long way.
once the wires are inside the engine compartment, you can route them under the battery tray and bolt the tray back on, so the wires are between the battery and the fender.

whatever you do, avoid having the wires running close or hanging over the engine, as the heat from your headers could fry the shield or plastic trunking (if any)
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Old 4/17/07, 03:15 PM   #7
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Sounds like removing the battery tray / splash guard will make things much easier, I'll definitely go that route.

One last question: Where do I install the signal wire for the amp? If I remember correctly it goes to the fusebox...
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Old 4/17/07, 03:36 PM   #8
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I assume that signal wire has to be connected to a switched power source, so your amp would power up and shut off with the accessory power of the car.

there are a few unused sockets in the passenger side fuse box (in the kick panel) that you can use to wire that up.

In the pic below, slots "A" and "C" are switched, and slot "B" is constant 12V power. (Pic and description courtesy of Don_W)
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Old 4/17/07, 05:18 PM   #9
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G.T., thanks again. Pictures and everything haha. I'll be running the wires and hooking up the sub tomorrow morning, wish me luck!
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Old 4/18/07, 07:38 AM   #10
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I suggest getting your signal behind the radio instead of from the kickpanel. There's more wire slack in that area. It's a ***** to contort inside that kickpanel if you're over 5'5".
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Old 4/18/07, 10:42 AM   #11
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I was actually thinking about just tapping the line out converter into the wires by the rear speakers themselves, and then using some zip ties to keep it up against the rear tray. That should work okay, right?
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Old 4/18/07, 11:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titanjc View Post
I was actually thinking about just tapping the line out converter into the wires by the rear speakers themselves, and then using some zip ties to keep it up against the rear tray. That should work okay, right?
That's how I installed a Bazooka years ago. All you need is the signal(s) going to the speakers and a power source. I wouldn't remove, alter, or change anything. Slide the power wire on the side of the rear seat, fish it under the carpet to the fuse panel, ground the unit anywhere in the trunk area to any screw or bolt available(or just drill a small hole and us a metal screw. It's not that complicated. Install should take less than 30 minutes with very minimal modification.
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Old 4/18/07, 02:35 PM   #13
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[quote=G.T;894326]since you're more mechanically inclined, jack up your car, remove the front right wheel, and the splash sheilds ( you have to undo a few retaining push pins ), the battery, and battery tray
quote]

+1, your don't even have to remove your wheel, or jack up the car. If you turn the wheel all the way to the side, you can remove the splash shield with the wheels still on.
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Old 4/18/07, 03:56 PM   #14
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I installed the Basslink today, it went very smoothly. That grommet in the wheel well made things very simple, and the passenger kick panel and door sill both pop off very easily. Now I just have to mess around with the settings on the sub and get the sound I'm looking for.

Thanks for all the tips everyone.
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Old 2/29/08, 09:46 AM   #15
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Titanjc what where the color of the wires that you tapped in to .I am doing the same with a sub and I also like the cleanness of the factory head unit!
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