NOLAGT

I ordered my GT with out the 500/1000 but still plan to mount door subs. Is this a mistake?? I dont really need he factory look thats why I didnt order the 500/1000. Can is still be done...has anyone done it...is it a huge PITA with out the ford 8 being there first? Should I try to change my order?

Thanks

Infinity

The car will not have the enclosure in the door, nor will it have the grill opening cut in the lower panel. It can be done, but this time, I think that the fiberglass work involved will cost more than the required Shaker 500 upgrade would have cost.

SRQ05GT

Its kind of a personal choice. I have the 500 and its ok. The sound is exceptable for a stock system. If you are really into sound then neiter the 500 or 1000 will be good enough. Go to a dealer and listen to both. And if you are not impressed be prepared to spend big bucks to get a really good system....

NOLAGT

I am definetly changing the system and I have had several in other cars I have had so I am used to the cost lol. I just wasnt sure about the baskets for the 8's so I decided not to get them and was just going to get someing else made. Even if it cost the same as the 500 system it would look better and I wouldnt have spent that money twice ya know. There is still the hole in the actual door (not door panel) where the basket should go if you dont get the 500 system right?

Can you just oder the basket from ford like it was a replacement part or something?? I just didnt want to shell out the money for the 500 knowing that it was coming out.

NOLAGT

Another thing is if I do fiberglss It wont be painted...just wraped in some leather or something like that. That should be much cheeper right? Never had fiberglss work done...thought about doing some myself but im not sure about that just yet. I do know the work involved in getting it paint ready is much more than getting it to the point to get it covered in something...so it should be less...I hope

thestoogeo

I am going to be replacing all my speakers. I ordered the shaker 500 specifically for the sub mounts. Everything is going to be torn out the day after I get it. I'm not sure having subs in the doors is a great idea to begin with.

If I were in your shoes I would consider adding your subs in the trunk and replacing the mid/tweeters in the doors. See how you like it, if it's still not good enough you might look into the Q-Logic forms. I'm not sure if they have sub encolsures, but they replace the kicker panels under the dash.

In my current car I have free-air subs mounted to the rear deck. I can feel the bass in the front seat just like they were underneath me. Let us know what you decide.

Jon

P.S. I will be posting a full how to on my site below in the next week or so. It will be for the shaker 500, but it might give you a better idea what you will have to do to get the subs up front.

withinavoid

I think subs in the door isn't much sense, but a good mid-bass driver is. I ordered mine with the base sound system. So far I've just replaced the headunit and speakers. Next up is sub+amp. The mustang cabin is so small I may leave it how it is. It will depend on how much of a gap there is between the sub and midranges, and also if the upper bass does not blend well. If that's the case I plan to install a 6 inch mid-bass in the lower doors on a custom pod. The problem is the stock door subs are very shallow so in order to put your own you would need to build out the enclosure pretty far and/or cut deep into the door if nothing is behind it. Pioneer has a shallow sub but it's only 12 inch, maybe they'll put an 8 inch out later.

NOLAGT

I am wanting some chest pounding midbass in the doors not actual "subs"....I will have a pair of 10's or 12's in the trunk for real sub duty A 7" or 8" in the door and a 4" or 5 1/4" mid and tweeter in a kick. Something light on the back deck like some 6.5" two ways for some rear fill...thats the plan at least.

Like this




Has anyone ran new speaker wire to the doors...is it hard to get to??

Infinity

Actually, from a sound quality standpoint, the door-mounted subs make complete sense. It places the full range of reproduction in front of you- just like a concert. In application, though, it is tough. First, it's difficult to fit the large drivers, and mostly, they rattle everything. I'll personally be using a wide-ranged midbass driver, along with the separate subwoofer(s) in the trunk, but most people would be very happy with a good replacement in the door, and more power.

Infinity

BTW, withinavoid, I've found quite a few 8" drivers that will work well in the enclosure as-is, with several more that will work with slight modification of the enclosure. I am waiting for the Dayton RS 4 ohm drivers to release (dual 4 and dual 2- I think). They will fit, and it's impossible to beat the value of Dayton drivers.

withinavoid

Mark, sounds like you've got it all planned out. That will sound kick hiney I'm sure, and as you know, getting those drivers into the kick panels will get you better imaging. I think we all agree getting a good mid-bass driver in the door would be nice. Low frequencies from subs are much less directional and if blended well with a front mid should sound great without putting the sound stage behind you.

Aaron, if you don't mind, can you post a few links to some good door mid-bass drivers that will fit? I'm sure it would be helpfull. Thanks.

Infinity

http://www.cdtaudio.com/EF_review_1.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3020.html
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=293-280
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=293-280 (wait for the car model due out soon- should be awesome)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=297-040
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=297-310
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi....11025&pid=1706
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi...9.11025&pid=827

That's a few links to get started. I don't have my notebook where I figured out EVERY driver I could find that would both fit, and work well in .41 cubic feet sealed. I did find that you'll want a good 5" or larger components because most 8's dont play the higher end very well (with a few exceptions of course). Most of the "car audio" drivers are made with deep cast Al baskets that simply won't fit, or they use huge magnets that are unneeded, but it sells because "OMG LOOOK AT THAT MAGNET> I BET IT'LL HANDLE A BAJILLION WATTS!!!!!!ELEVENTYONONEONE!!!111

NOLAGT

I was looking at that CDT 8 as one option. I have some HD's in my last car and liked them pretty much. There is also some from http://www.reaudio.com/html/ called the RE8 that I have heard is pretty good. I wont know till I get the car and see what kind of actual room I have. Think the kickpods would get in the way of a 5spd? When are the kicks supposed to be out?

Infinity

I have actually talked to the owner of RE, and he is e-mailing me a specification sheet with exact dimensions. That is a nice driver if it will fit- and the price is right on it also. Yes, I think the kickpods would get in the way, but I have a size 14 foot. heck, the car gets in the way of my big hooves.

NOLAGT

LOL yeah I gess there isnt much room for you down there. Once I get the car and see what pods come out/ would fit I will determin what I will do. I have one of RE's subs the XXX...pounds pretty good for a single 12. I might do a pair of 10's like that but they weigh so darn much

Infinity

I am taking measurements for Phil Salisbury of Woodlawn Cabinetry to see what he can do for us. I'm hoping he can build a sturdy MDF replica of the Shaker 1000 enclosure. I have a pair of Elemental 10K's (flat cone) that I REALLY like using.

BatNastard

Aaron,

the peerless csc-x is disco. and if dayton really comes out with a dual 2 after all i did with my 8 ohm seas drivers, i'm gonna cry. or just hang on to my factory amps :P

NOLAGT, best I can tell you is the factory baskets are worth something, but if you're going to get your own made, you have more options.

cspruill

Why wait? Here is a link to another forum which shows how to convert the current Dayton RS to unshielded without damaging the driver. The net result is:

Depth: 2 7/8" to the bottom of the flange
Width at base: 3 7/8"

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...read.php?t=675

Infinity

I'm a member there, as is BatNastard. Derek from Dayton Audio/PartsExpress has said there will be 4ohm car drivers, but noone will say when