Enabling the Subwoofer control on a Shaker 500
8/13/06, 07:21 PM
#41
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The LOCB.2 could also be used to tap the trunk harness. But if you have the Shaker 500, and the trunk harness, I think your biggest concern would be whether or not those trunk wires are active. They probably are not, so your best bet is tap the front amp lines and run RCA's back to the trunk. Running cables from the driver's side front to the trunk takes only like a few minutes, the cables tuck right under the plastic trim and the rear seat pops right out to make it easier.
8/13/06, 08:44 PM
#43
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I think tapping the factory pre-outs gives a cleaner signal then post-amp speaker leads, no? But it definitely would be easier to tap those rear speaker leads.
Anyway, I threw together the rest of my web page on the install. BEWARE, right now it's one big page with about 25MB worth of pics so it might take a while to load. I am going to break it up later into smaller pages. Here's the link: http://savkomedia.com/kevin
Anyway, I threw together the rest of my web page on the install. BEWARE, right now it's one big page with about 25MB worth of pics so it might take a while to load. I am going to break it up later into smaller pages. Here's the link: http://savkomedia.com/kevin
8/13/06, 10:29 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by KBONSIG
Can the LOCB2 be tapped into the trunk harness for the shaker? FYI my car was built 4/20/06 and I do have the harness.
Originally Posted by KevinS
noticed that most of the rattle was coming from the rear plastic trunk latch panel as Infinity described. I still need to do some matting to get rid of some of the rattles but I have it to a minimum.
i've never dynamatted a car, so i don't even know where to start
p.s: thanks for the site with the pics!
9/17/06, 03:00 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by KevinS
I think tapping the factory pre-outs gives a cleaner signal then post-amp speaker leads, no? But it definitely would be easier to tap those rear speaker leads.
Anyway, I threw together the rest of my web page on the install. BEWARE, right now it's one big page with about 25MB worth of pics so it might take a while to load. I am going to break it up later into smaller pages. Here's the link: http://savkomedia.com/kevin
Anyway, I threw together the rest of my web page on the install. BEWARE, right now it's one big page with about 25MB worth of pics so it might take a while to load. I am going to break it up later into smaller pages. Here's the link: http://savkomedia.com/kevin
one thing though, did you change the DIP Switch settings on yours?
mine came with only 2 and 7 on..
i noticed that having 1 and 8 on instead gave a higher output which was needed for my Rockford Fosgate 1051S amp (1100 RMS)
finally.. could you please send me the measurements of your subs enclosure?
i've had a platform made to fit right behind the rear seats and hold on to the sides of the trunk without the need for screws.
that is used to hold my amp and capacitor.
then i applied two stripes of velcro to the bottom of my sub enclosure, hoping that'd hold it in place, till i took a sharp corner and my sub went tumbling across the trunk.
now that's fixed with a metal braket in place, but not for long..
i wanna clean up and regain my trunk space!
9/17/06, 03:58 PM
#46
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I currently have all switches off on the Soundgate (highest input sensitivity). Also I have since added a Kicker KX2 crossover between the Soundgate and the amplifier. This gives me three points of gain control, the Soundgate, the KX2, and the amplifier. I have yet to spend enough time tweaking to find the best combination of all three. Right now the amp is at about 3/4 gain, and the KX2 is also at about 3/4.
The amp/cap rack looks cool. I'll dig up the exact measurements of my enclosure, and follow-up once I get that together. Although, if you plan to use my enclosure plan I am unsure if it will work with the Punch Stage 3's. The depth and dimensions of the Infinity 12.1 just barely fit, I'm talking probably a quarter inch of play.
The amp/cap rack looks cool. I'll dig up the exact measurements of my enclosure, and follow-up once I get that together. Although, if you plan to use my enclosure plan I am unsure if it will work with the Punch Stage 3's. The depth and dimensions of the Infinity 12.1 just barely fit, I'm talking probably a quarter inch of play.
9/18/06, 06:33 PM
#47
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Try to find a balance where your gains are set as low as possible to get full output. That will give you your cleanest signal, and therefore, your best sound. An amp with the gains at 3/4 makes me cringe.
2/29/08, 12:08 PM
#49
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The LOCB.2 is a line output converter that can take a line level signal ("before" the amplifier) and output the same line level signal without noticably reducing the signal strength of the line you're tapping into.
If you were to just tap into the same line w/o using the LOCB.2, you could feed your amp that signal, but you would lose more or less half of the signal strength in the process - in both your aftermarket amp and your stock amp.
I'm not familiar with the line adapter from Scosche, but my guess is that it accepts speaker level inputs and outputs a line level output, as in you could tap into your rear deck speakers for the signal so you won't have to run a cable all the way back. I dunno, link me to it.
If you were to just tap into the same line w/o using the LOCB.2, you could feed your amp that signal, but you would lose more or less half of the signal strength in the process - in both your aftermarket amp and your stock amp.
I'm not familiar with the line adapter from Scosche, but my guess is that it accepts speaker level inputs and outputs a line level output, as in you could tap into your rear deck speakers for the signal so you won't have to run a cable all the way back. I dunno, link me to it.
3/1/08, 08:51 AM
#50
Just the person to answer this question. I have already upgraded from the Shaker 500 to the Shaker 1000. My Dad is an electrician and worked for Toyota a few years ago as maintenance . fixed robots and etc. So he knows his stuff.
It took us 10-12 hours to install the shaker subs in the trunk correctly. We didn't want to splice so the car i got the subs out of i also got the head unit connector and removed and crimped the pins into my head unit connector. We then had to run wires from the connector to the fuse box, and had to fill in the spot for the fuses, the whole thing not just the fuse.
So we ran a wire with the tail lights up to the front. it went under the rear seat, down by the door sills.
Shaker Control, after buying the shaker 1000 head unit we had to swap cd changers in it and we noticed a module that was in the shaker 1000 that wasn't in the shaker 500. So the shaker control is completely removed from the head unit. You will have to find a shaker 1000 head unit for your system to work properly.
It took us 10-12 hours to install the shaker subs in the trunk correctly. We didn't want to splice so the car i got the subs out of i also got the head unit connector and removed and crimped the pins into my head unit connector. We then had to run wires from the connector to the fuse box, and had to fill in the spot for the fuses, the whole thing not just the fuse.
So we ran a wire with the tail lights up to the front. it went under the rear seat, down by the door sills.
Shaker Control, after buying the shaker 1000 head unit we had to swap cd changers in it and we noticed a module that was in the shaker 1000 that wasn't in the shaker 500. So the shaker control is completely removed from the head unit. You will have to find a shaker 1000 head unit for your system to work properly.
3/1/08, 09:40 PM
#52
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The LOCB.2 is a line output converter that can take a line level signal ("before" the amplifier) and output the same line level signal without noticably reducing the signal strength of the line you're tapping into.
If you were to just tap into the same line w/o using the LOCB.2, you could feed your amp that signal, but you would lose more or less half of the signal strength in the process - in both your aftermarket amp and your stock amp.
I'm not familiar with the line adapter from Scosche, but my guess is that it accepts speaker level inputs and outputs a line level output, as in you could tap into your rear deck speakers for the signal so you won't have to run a cable all the way back. I dunno, link me to it.
If you were to just tap into the same line w/o using the LOCB.2, you could feed your amp that signal, but you would lose more or less half of the signal strength in the process - in both your aftermarket amp and your stock amp.
I'm not familiar with the line adapter from Scosche, but my guess is that it accepts speaker level inputs and outputs a line level output, as in you could tap into your rear deck speakers for the signal so you won't have to run a cable all the way back. I dunno, link me to it.
Tell me what you think?
5/6/08, 12:17 PM
#53
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Wow you guys did lots of reserch.
I also updated to the shaker 1000 I bought all the stuff on craigs list. I only received part of the harness. I had to install a toggle switch to power on the woffers. I use it a lot due to listing to am for ball games and so on. does anyone now how i can wire it to the back of the radio so it can work on the menu side of the radio so i can lose the chessy togle switch.
Thanks Saverio
I also updated to the shaker 1000 I bought all the stuff on craigs list. I only received part of the harness. I had to install a toggle switch to power on the woffers. I use it a lot due to listing to am for ball games and so on. does anyone now how i can wire it to the back of the radio so it can work on the menu side of the radio so i can lose the chessy togle switch.
Thanks Saverio
5/19/08, 12:33 PM
#54
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LOC?
This is just the info I was looking for, by the way Kevin nice write up and pics on your page, found it the other day. This is my first post so sorry about asking a question first off. I understand your setup with the LOCB2 but I called Soundgate and they recommended using the LOCX for this setup. I said ok great until I looked up the wiring diagram, they say the LOCX is supposed to go after the amp. I have not looked under the dash at the amps yet but I would assume this means to go to the wires coming out of the amp to one of the door subs? Is there enough room in here to do this? The reason he said use the LOCX was for better sound and less distortion and it does not require any power. Sorry for the long post just trying to gather info before I order one or the other. Thanks.
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