KBONSIG

On the right side - back towards the passanger door - it plugs into some round thing - can we get some sort of plug in this harness for RCA output to the shaker 500???

Infinity

I'll check my harnesses tonight to get the pinout information. I knew it was way too easy to find what I THOUGHT you needed. I do know that there are 2 pre-out channels, both mono low-passed signals. You may have to tap into the pre-amp signal to the 500 (doors) as the head unit may not put any signal to the 1000 pins without the actual 1000 head.

Infinity

If I had the harness in my car, I could find out the plug. It isn't in mine. The harness stops somewhere before the trunk in my car.

G.T

so where should i look to find this elusive harness? i've taken the door sills, the rear seat and the trunk carpetting out, and found nothing

if anyone can tell me exactly where to look i'd be more than happy to take my car apart yet again.

then again, assuming i found this harness, then what do i do with it? which sort of adapter/convertor do i need to use to plug that harness into my aftermarket amp?

theedge67

The harness/plug thing is in the trunk on the pass. side behind the carpeted trim stuff. It is right behind where the sub on the 1000 system would go if you had it. It is a small black plug that is plugged into a round thing that doesn't appear to serve any purpose. The wires to the harness run up to the trunk deck lid and into a wiring bundle. Other wires in that bundle look like they are for the interior lights of the trunk and the trunk mounted brake light. If your GT was built late in 06 it may not have it. Mine was built in early Aug. 05.

KevinS

This is not good. You say you tapped pin 1 & 2... My Motorcraft wiring diagram shows that is brown/orange and is the Aux aud out + line. Pin 2 is red/black and is the aux aud out - line. That gave you a steady (non volume controlled) output? I was targeting those two wires to hook up the Soundgate adapter. Based on what you've seen, the Soundgate wouldn't work with that kind of signal either. Unfortunately Soundgate doesn't provide any wiring support according to their FAQ. I think I'll try and e-mail them anyway maybe I'll get lucky and they will respond.

G.T

mine is an 06 that's built in September 2005. and i still can't find the harness!
where does this harness connect to in the back of the Shaker head unit?
cuz i've seen the Subwoofer connection behind the Shaker, had pins 4-8 left unused, although the wiring diagram showed them as Subwoofer low +, low -, sheild and Sub mute.

Please send me the motorcraft diagrams.. i've got the service manuals but none of these showed the actual wiring colors and details.

pin 1 and 2 surely gave me a non volume controlled output.. although i followed the wires and tapped through right before the amplifier by the clutch.

while pins 4 and 5 which were designated as Subwoofer Low + and - ( which i figured are non-amplified signals ) gave me a steady frequency sample that made my subwoofer hum, but that's about it.

i'm sure soundgate will reply immediately..
some guy named Chester always replied my emails within minutes

Infinity

I don't know the pin #'s as they're described here, but I'll explain what the pins are.

::::

That is the connector pins looking dead into them. The bottom-left pin is the audio + for the Shaker 1000, the - is the next pin to the right. The Shaker 500 is the 2 pins directly above, with the upper-left as + and the next one negative. The upper AND lower right hand pins are the outputs for the remote turn-on leads. I assume they correspond top/bottom with the 500/1000, but IDK.

FWIW, my car has wires running from the dash that carry the 1000 preamp signal SOMEWHERE, but I have no idea where it ends. The harness is not in my trunk, and I have a VERY early '06 (first week).

G.T

:::: is how my connector looks too.
according to the diagrams i found, the top row of pins carries the Sub high +, -, sheild, and mute
the lower row of pins carries the sub low +, -, sheild and mute.

only in my case, only the upper row of pins is actually wired.
the lower row is left empty, and that's where i experiemented with connecting my amplifier when i got a steady low frequency that drove my sub into producing a solid bass hum.

what's next? i'm assuming there's some product that could tap right into the lower row of pins, probably the SoundGate LOCB.2?

KevinS

I gotta believe that the lower row of pins is inactive/non-functional on the 500. Theoretically, the LOCB.2 can be tapped into the upper row, and continue to allow signal to go to the door subs, while providing an additional set of RCA's for your rear subs. When I hear back from the Soundgate tech (probably tonight), if he has good news, I will try it asap and post the results to put this issue to rest.

KevinS

Here's what I sent to Soundgate:

----------

Hello, I recently purchased the LOCB.2 adapter from your web site. Before purchase I inquired via e-mail as to whether or not it would work with the new "Shaker 500" factory radio system found in 2005+ Ford Mustangs, and was told that it would.

Before I attempt installation I just wanted to try and verify the wiring method as it is rather unclear. I realize that your FAQ indicates that you do not provide this kind of support, but I thought I'd try anyway. I am assuming that the LOCB.2 should be wired to pins 1(+ brown/orange) and 2 (- red/black) of the C290B connector. However, this appears to be a mono output. So I am wondering if I can just connect both left and right LOCB2 leads to these two wires or if that would cause problems. Not sure, but I have also heard that pin 4 (enable/mute) plays a role in the volume control of the pre-amp signal, and without it, pins 1 & 2 provide only a constant non-variable volume signal. Is the LOCB.2 really compatible with this system? Any further information you could provide would be appreciated. Thanks.

----------

Here's the reply:

----------

Use pins 1 and 2 for both channels you will be fine whoever told you that there no volume control without pin 4 is incorrect.
Best Regards
Joe Hobart
Technical Support Coordinator, SoundGate

----------

I'll be trying this out this weekend.

G.T

let's see how this turns out..
this is one time i'd be so happy to be incorrect

please keep us posted with the installation process (take pics!) and the results

KevinS

Ok, I did most of my install today (still need to solidly mount the sub enclosure in the trunk, clean up wiring under the hood, and find a home for the remote bass controller). I can say with certainty that the LOCB.2 works as the Soundgate tech described. I can't say how long but so far so good. Also, so far I didn't get any alternator noise/whine or any of that either, but in time I'll have a better idea of any problems.

The brown/orange (+) and red/black (-) pre-amp level Shaker wires can be tapped right at the amp (I tapped into the passenger side ones, not sure it makes a diff). Both + wires on the LOCB.2 can connect to brown/orange and both - wires on the LOCB.2 can connect to red/black. You get a clean pre-amp volume controlled signal. Also, you don't lose the existing door subs, they continue to function normally despite tapping into their signal with this adapter.

My biggest problem now is RATTLING of the trunk, it really, really sucks. Tomorrow I'll be installing some Dynamat before I mount the sub enclosure in the trunk. Hopefully that will do the trick, but the rattling is pretty bad, worst I've seen on any vehicle.

I've been taking pics as I go along, and am putting together a web site to describe the install process. My setup is basically a RF 6001BD amp, a pair of Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1, and a 1 farad RF cap.

Infinity

A lot of your rattling will be the vents that relieve pressure when you shut the doors/trunk. You'll find them deep in the rear corners. They have a rubber baffle that keeps water from getting in also. I stuffed a piece of sponge into them (you'll see when you find them). This allows them to still function, but they don't fart when the bass hits. Also, the rear plastic panel (around the trunk latch). Mat the hell out of it, cuz it rattles and buzzes alot. If you can get some rubber/silicone washers on your spoiler (if applicable) it will help. Also, the rear deck cover (not the metal, but the carpet cover on the inside) will need some attention. I suggest removing your rear speakers and allowing your bass to vent into the cabin through those existing holes.

Good job on getting that hooked up. I had done 2 of them in that manner, but I was looking hard for some plugs to make a harness to allow easy hookup. No way. They're Chinese-manufactured and only sold 10,000 minimum.

G.T

can anyone tell me what exactly is the LOCB.2 and how different is it from standard High-Low convertors found all over the net?

KevinS, i'd appreciate it if you could be bothered to post more details on your install once done.

what amplifier and subwoofer did you use?
also what's the sound quality like? cuz my limited success with a high-low convertor tapping into the rear speaker lines, have produced some results, although the BASS quality is bad, missing most of the mid range bass.. which i related to the lack of an equalizer.

Infinity

What subwoofer are you using, and in what enclosure?

G.T

Rockford Fosgate Power 1015S ( 1015 watts RMS )
Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 3 12" Subwoofer Dual 2-ohm voice coils
in a custom MDF wooden enclosure (tried with and without a vent)
the plan was to put 2 subs, but i didn't yet get to that stage..

and just like Kevin mentioned, i'm having some REDICULOUS rattling in the rear, which is 10 times louder than any car i've had (i had 4 subs fitted in my old Hyundai Tiburon running a deafening 2000 watts RMS.. still the BASS was always louder than the rattling noise.. here with the mustang it's the other way around )

Infinity

Mine doesn't rattle that bad, if at all. But, I deadened the **** out of it before I installed. I have one layer of mat over the entire trunk, and 2 thick coats of liquid atop that. Best bet is to start a real bassy song- I'd suggest something like Linkin Park since it has actual drums and synthed rap bass at the same time. Then start pressing on panels to see when the rattling stops. The only rattle I get is from the large plastic panels in the rear around the 1/4 windows, because I haven't deadened them yet. I got lazy since it was 100*+ while I was doing it.

KBONSIG

Can the LOCB2 be tapped into the trunk harness for the shaker? FYI my car was built 4/20/06 and I do have the harness.

KevinS

I'll probably have the web site done in a couple days. Anyway, I finished up the install today, noticed that most of the rattle was coming from the rear plastic trunk latch panel as Infinity described. I still need to do some matting to get rid of some of the rattles but I have it to a minimum.

You can find details on the LOCB.2 at http://www.soundgate.com/index.php?r...&productid=431