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Autometer Nexus Gauge Install

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Old 6/20/06, 02:12 PM   #1
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Autometer Nexus Gauge Install

How difficult are these to install? I have a Fuel and Oil Pressure gauge on order.
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Old 6/20/06, 03:54 PM   #2
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extremely easy i did it myself in about an hour. how are you mounting the gauges? the SOS A pillar? also do you have a Manual or Automatic tranny?
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Old 6/20/06, 06:31 PM   #3
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SOS pilllar pod, manuel transmission
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Old 6/20/06, 07:49 PM   #4
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Here are the instructions:
  • Remove the door sill plate on driver’s side. Just pull up on it. It is held in with clips and tape.
  • Remove the driver’s side kick panel. There is a plastic screw towards the back near the fuel pump reset switch. Other than that it just snaps out.
  • Remove the stock A Pillar. Start from the roofline behind the driver’s seat and keep pulling it down while you move forward. It will just snap out.
  • Run the Nexus network cable through the rear of the SOS pillar pod and through the 2 cups where the gauges sit. You can connect the 2 gauges now if you like. It will keep the wire from falling back through.
  • install the A pillar the opposite way you removed the stock one, running the Nexus network wire down the side between the door and dash, where the drivers side kick panel was.
  • run the wire under the steering column and let it hang for now
  • Grab the nexus sensor module (black box as I call it) and the wiring harness it comes with.
  • Plug the wire harness into the nexus unit and rest it on the floor.
  • Take the Black wire (ground) and run it to the driver’s side of the car. There is a ground screw already there. Use a socket and remove the screw. You can ground it here. Get those clips at AutoZone that connect to the wire on one side and have a ring on the other so you can thread the screw through it.
  • You can replace the driver’s side door kick panel and door sill now.
  • Run the Red and yellow wires across the car to the passenger side kick panel. Remove the panel and fuse box cover. Refer to Don_w's wiring diagram I enclosed to see where to put them. Get 2 add a circuit things from AutoZone for this. Yellow is switched 12v and red is Constant 12v. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT or gauges won’t zero properly on startup of the car.
  • If you look at the firewall near the clutch you will see a rubber grommet with the stock wire harness running through it already. Just to the right of the stock harness still in the rubber grommet there appears to be a hole but it’s sealed inside. Not a problem.
  • Jack up the driver’s side front of the car and remove your Wheel.
  • Remove the Wheel well closest to the firewall. Wheel well is in 2 pieces but only this one needs to be removed.
  • Once done you will see the stock wires coming through the grommet and to the left of them is a rubber nipple. That is the hole we saw on the inside.
  • Cut the nipple off with a razor and now you can see into your car through the hole. We can run many wires through here for an infinite number of gauges.
  • I would suggest using wire loom to run the gauge wire harnesses through the firewall it seals the hole better. I would run the gauge wire harness through wire loom first then push the loom through the hole in the grommet from the inside of the car.
  • Time to hook up gauges. For the fuel pressure you need an adapter as the stock fuel rail does not have a service port or a diagnostic port. Motoblue makes one and you can get it for $50 here. Run the wire up alongside the firewall and to the fuel rail. You may need to lengthen the wires. If so be careful and solder and heat shrink them.
  • I didn’t use an oil pressure gauge but Follow the instructions for it. You would run the wire through the grommet and down to the stock oil pressure sender. I do believe you need to ground out the stock oil pressure sensor or the car will think something’s wrong.
  • Once the sending units are hooked up you can use some silicone around the rubber grommet on both sides to create a better seal.
  • Reinstall the wheel well and wheel and lower the car.
  • Back inside the car, now you can hook up the sending unit wires to the sensor module. I placed the module above the main wire harness and below the steering column and zip tied it there.
  • You are basically done. I zip tied all loose wires to existing wires so nothing showed. Start the car and everything should be set and ready to go
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Old 6/20/06, 07:51 PM   #5
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There are three open slots where you can use an "Add-a-Circuit" thingy. In the pic below, slots "A" and "C" are switched, and slot "B" is constant 12V power. Pic and description courtesy of Don_W

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Old 6/20/06, 07:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94tbird
Here are the instructions:
  • Remove the door sill plate on driver’s side. Just pull up on it. It is held in with clips and tape.
  • Remove the driver’s side kick panel. There is a plastic screw towards the back near the fuel pump reset switch. Other than that it just snaps out.
  • Remove the stock A Pillar. Start from the roofline behind the driver’s seat and keep pulling it down while you move forward. It will just snap out.
  • Run the Nexus network cable through the rear of the SOS pillar pod and through the 2 cups where the gauges sit. You can connect the 2 gauges now if you like. It will keep the wire from falling back through.
  • install the A pillar the opposite way you removed the stock one, running the Nexus network wire down the side between the door and dash, where the drivers side kick panel was.
  • run the wire under the steering column and let it hang for now
  • Grab the nexus sensor module (black box as I call it) and the wiring harness it comes with.
  • Plug the wire harness into the nexus unit and rest it on the floor.
  • Take the Black wire (ground) and run it to the driver’s side of the car. There is a ground screw already there. Use a socket and remove the screw. You can ground it here. Get those clips at AutoZone that connect to the wire on one side and have a ring on the other so you can thread the screw through it.
  • You can replace the driver’s side door kick panel and door sill now.
  • Run the Red and yellow wires across the car to the passenger side kick panel. Remove the panel and fuse box cover. Refer to Don_w's wiring diagram I enclosed to see where to put them. Get 2 add a circuit things from AutoZone for this. Yellow is switched 12v and red is Constant 12v. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT or gauges won’t zero properly on startup of the car.
  • If you look at the firewall near the clutch you will see a rubber grommet with the stock wire harness running through it already. Just to the right of the stock harness still in the rubber grommet there appears to be a hole but it’s sealed inside. Not a problem.
  • Jack up the driver’s side front of the car and remove your Wheel.
  • Remove the Wheel well closest to the firewall. Wheel well is in 2 pieces but only this one needs to be removed.
  • Once done you will see the stock wires coming through the grommet and to the left of them is a rubber nipple. That is the hole we saw on the inside.
  • Cut the nipple off with a razor and now you can see into your car through the hole. We can run many wires through here for an infinite number of gauges.
  • I would suggest using wire loom to run the gauge wire harnesses through the firewall it seals the hole better. I would run the gauge wire harness through wire loom first then push the loom through the hole in the grommet from the inside of the car.
  • Time to hook up gauges. For the fuel pressure you need an adapter as the stock fuel rail does not have a service port or a diagnostic port. Motoblue makes one and you can get it for $50 here. Run the wire up alongside the firewall and to the fuel rail. You may need to lengthen the wires. If so be careful and solder and heat shrink them.
  • I didn’t use an oil pressure gauge but Follow the instructions for it. You would run the wire through the grommet and down to the stock oil pressure sender. I do believe you need to ground out the stock oil pressure sensor or the car will think something’s wrong.
  • Once the sending units are hooked up you can use some silicone around the rubber grommet on both sides to create a better seal.
  • Reinstall the wheel well and wheel and lower the car.
  • Back inside the car, now you can hook up the sending unit wires to the sensor module. I placed the module above the main wire harness and below the steering column and zip tied it there.
  • You are basically done. I zip tied all loose wires to existing wires so nothing showed. Start the car and everything should be set and ready to go

**** dude, have you ever done this before?? j/k lol!

Good instructions, thanks for taking the time.
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Old 6/20/06, 08:03 PM   #7
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no problem guys. ive only done it once and it worked so im either lucky or good haha. my second attempt is in Blackhat's car on Saturday lol
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Old 6/20/06, 09:15 PM   #8
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Thats whats so great about TMS...thanks.
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Old 6/20/06, 09:20 PM   #9
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im about to order the sos pod.what would be the two most important gauges to get for n/a car?should i get a wideband?id also like to get one of those raptor shift lights installed on it.are those simple to install as well?are the nexus gauges the ones with blue backlighting?
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Old 6/20/06, 10:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06tungstenstang
im about to order the sos pod.what would be the two most important gauges to get for n/a car?should i get a wideband?id also like to get one of those raptor shift lights installed on it.are those simple to install as well?are the nexus gauges the ones with blue backlighting?
for a N/A car i guess maybe oil pressure and water temp i guess. you dont need boost/vac or fuel pressure as those are still stock. you dotn really need an air/fuel unless u have aftermarket intake. and if you do get air/fuel u want wideband. the SOS comes with a provision for raptor shift light built in if you order it that way. the nexus gauges are black backing and can change to seven different colors
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Old 6/20/06, 10:17 PM   #11
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Excuse me I have a V6 not that that matters but Im installing a procharger in the future and I need to install 2 gauges. Airfuel wideband and vacum boost. I want to use the dash pod , would that be harder to install?
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Old 6/20/06, 10:24 PM   #12
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thanks tbird,yeh i have demolet cai and sct tuner.thats why i was thinking i may need a/f.and i will be going with an power adder eventually.but i will use the cdc three gauge pod for those gauges when the time comes.do you agree i should get the a/f and which other would you recomend?also which wideband is everyone using?and are they reliable?
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Old 6/20/06, 10:29 PM   #13
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Well im going with AEM's new wideband its going for like $275.00 free shipping at RPM outlet. Its a lot but its your engine and thats a lot! LOL especially when going FI'd. Im going with a autometer vaccum/boost gauge.
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Old 6/20/06, 10:40 PM   #14
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the aem sounds cheap for an a/f.i was thinking more around 4-500.
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Old 6/20/06, 10:56 PM   #15
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WOW thats really too much!!!! Especially for a NA'd motor. I've never even seen a gauge that much for our cars LOL where and what brand? What will $225 more get you? Rygens running the AEM wideband on his powerhouse turbo so I know it aint to cheap.
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Old 6/20/06, 11:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricklmesa@***.net
Well im going with AEM's new wideband its going for like $275.00 free shipping at RPM outlet. Its a lot but its your engine and thats a lot! LOL especially when going FI'd. Im going with a autometer vaccum/boost gauge.
No the Dash pod is easy if you go with the CDC/MRT one. it covers one of the 2 rows of windsheild defroster vents and the wires get routed through there. no drilling necessary but you would have to remove center dash piece and radio to make it easy to do.
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Old 6/20/06, 11:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06tungstenstang
thanks tbird,yeh i have demolet cai and sct tuner.thats why i was thinking i may need a/f.and i will be going with an power adder eventually.but i will use the cdc three gauge pod for those gauges when the time comes.do you agree i should get the a/f and which other would you recomend?also which wideband is everyone using?and are they reliable?
You dont technically need it. i had a CAI and tune for over a year with no gauges. as long as you have a good tune you will have no problems.

if your going to add a power adder like a S/C or turbo then go for broke and make sure you get a wideband A/F gauge. AEM is like $300 and the Nexus one, if it ever releases, is $400. Most peopel i beleive are using the AEM only because it is avalible over the Nexus at the moment. I think Don_W is switching to the nexus one when it releases so they all match. the gauges themselves are reliable yes. The wideband gives you more accurate readings and liek it was stated above its a lot but so is replaceing an engine.

Its hard to pick for a N/A car as they really dont need gauges but i would say water temp and air/fuel. If you go with a procharger where it taps the stock oil pan i say oil pressure as well but if you g owith a Kenne Bell or similar it has a self contained oil supply and you dont need the oil pressure.
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Old 6/20/06, 11:08 PM   #18
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you have to rememebr also the nexus gauges give you warning levels, peak levels, record functions, playback, color change similar to mycolor on your cars and they are a full sweep electric gauge. all controled by one simple remote control. feature for feature they cant be topped right now
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Old 6/20/06, 11:18 PM   #19
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more then likely ill be going with the whipple setup.the nexus a/f at $400 sounds good,its a wideband?where is everyone buying the raptor shift lights,sos pods,and nexus?looking for the best price.thanks guys
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Old 6/21/06, 05:26 AM   #20
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TBIRD is turning into the technical wizard.
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