Cavero

I just took my car through the hurricane this weekend (Ok... on the outskirts), but it showed me I need one thing above all else: hood pins for my new CS-6 hood. Even after I cleared the storm and things got calm again, the thing was fluttering so bad at 75 that a college kid drove around side of me and up a sign "YOUR HOOD" and then motioned it was flapping. It held (I didn't have a choice about driving though), but the fiberglass is still new and more pliant than it'll be in the future. I obviously need hood pins to stop the shake.

So what's out there that will fit the CS-6? I see shelby makes some pins, so does UPR. They both look good, but I want to see what else is out there.

For the through-pin models (like the above), what are the chances that the pins slide out while driving? I'm worried about losing a pin if I cut the cables (not so much a fan of how it looks)

Anyone got info on the twist lock models? I'm kind of intrigued about them.

Just FYI, this is what I'm workin with:

ETNOATS

I have the plain Scott Drake kit and have mine upto 135-140 and havent had any issues. I dont see how it would be possible for them to come off. The way the snap ring attaches to the pin is pretty strong. My cables are rusting though. I will probably find a way to put on some black or grey heat shrink tubing to cover them. The twist lock or hidden pins do look way better though.

NJ3

I have the Shelby flat stainless scuff plate and hood pins and my hood survived the hurricane. I have long ago removed the lanyards and the key is to adjust the hood pins so the lynch pins are tight without being too tight. The design of the lynch pin is such they won't just fall out.
For your hood I think something like these would look the best with the billet scuff plates. http://www.partscheap.com/Mustang-Ho...-6316892-k.htm
Here is my hood with the stainless scuff plate and pins.

06GT

Had the Scott Drake ones on my old car, they look great and are functional. Resolved my hood flutter above 100mph.

Otherwise I would go w/ the Sparco ones.

ETNOATS

The ones in the link in NJ3s post are exactly what I have. Pretty sure I have posted pics if you want to do a search.

tapd117

You have a nice hood, I would use the Shelby hood pin set........... GG

908ssp

You could go with something more contemporary.

Antigini-GT/CS

YES! I couldn't have said it better myself. The aero pins are clean and you won't have to worry about anything rubbing anywhere.

Threadjack...

908ssp is that yours?

delz05

FWIW... I just ordered a set of the Shelby Black anodized, billet aluminum from CJPony parts, 90.00 shipped...I think they may look best on your car, as opposed to a stainless or chrome. You may also like the regular brushed billet aluminum as well...

908ssp

Yes thanks mine. Not the best pictures but the best I had with the latch. I have seen those Aerolatchs on SLS, Aston Martin, LFA, and Audi race cars.

ford4v429

I bought the stainless ford racing ones and they are some chinese junk in my opinion...the spring rings rust, the stainless scuff plates needed deburred and repolished (raised ridge around the outside would dig into paint otherwise) the lanyards might as well have been made of spring steel, couldnt use them...
always liked the look, but theres so much cheap stuff out there anymore...
anyways, like mentioned a couple posts up, no chance of loosing one on the road, they lock on pretty tight- getting preload adjusted so they dont slide is touchy...the ones (shelby?) with the machined black scuffplates are neat- thinking about making up some similar to replace my scuffplates with- but with just one groove and a raised shoulder for the ring to snap around to keep it concentric...whatever I do it has to match the existing holes/diameter.

ford should be ashamed for putting their name on this stuff. I bought cheap mr-gasket ones decades ago that were much much better material and finish

the pop-up ones are neat- kinda big, but neat... I just worry about finish durability...if SHR made them I wouldnt worry, but Ive seen a lot of aftermarket stuff that has poor finishing standards. my car sits out 90% of the time. a buddy bought a harley fuel door for his hummer, and it corroded so bad within a year its pathetic- more chinese/yet officially licensed stuff...never seen any pics of finish issues on SHR stuff- real triple chrome or real quality polishing and clearcoating typically wont come out of china, so if your car sits out much, watch what you get...

Cavero

GOOD GOD! that's one sick looking car!

Those look great on yours, real aggressive and race inspired, but I dunno if that fits with the look of my car. Yours looks great because it matches the grille and the splitter, which screams "track" but mine is definitely more street (and tame). I'm going to have to see a photochop to decide

Yeah I don't have a garage soooo..... corrosion is a factor. I'm seriously leaning towards cutting any cables on the oldschool pins if I go that way.

NinjaSteffers

Wow please post more pics!!

randy_tho

What about the steeda ones? Like forty bucks and no cables to deal with.
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-s...d-mustang.html

Scruffy281

They're made by Sparco and widely available: http://www.sparcousa.com/ptuning_acc.asp?id=297

Cavero

gotta say not a fan of those

karman

This is what I have (without cables) and I like them.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.a...FYNM4Aod-DE4Mg

Cavero

So I bought the UPR hood pins, and as it turns out they don't look like they'd clear the top of the hood. The shop that was going to do the installation showed me the measurements they were doing and the pins just aren't long enough. It's a **** shame too because they look good. Luckily we caught this before they drilled anything. The CS6 hood is a lot taller in front than the stock piece, so I've really gotta make sure its going to clear whichever way I go.

I think I'm going to have to start another thread to grab the attention of CS6 hood owners to see what they used

Cavero

I decided to the double check the measurements the shop did. What bugged me was that they were doing measurements relative to other measurements, which just makes fuzzy math even fuzzier. So I decided to measure all from a common reference point: the ground.

This is my rig:


Its a camera tripod with a metal yardstick and a digital level. Once I set it up, I just set it to a reference point, pan it away so I can open/close the hood, pan it back, and then measure the distance from the reference point. The thing hanging from it is a spark plug socket acting as a plumbob (because I forgot the digital level has a laser pointer, but the plumbob works well enough).

So starting out I pre-installed the UPR pins the way the shop did (ingenious on their part because the package technically hasn't been opened), and adjusting them out all the way they could safely go:



Then I adjusted the rig to use the bottom of the hole for the thru-pin (which obviously has to clear through the hood):



And noted the plumbob:



From there I panned the rig out of the way, removed the pins, closed the hood and moved it back to position:



Then I put everything back to make sure the rig didn't move around in the process (it did very slightly):


So obviously UPR pins won't clear. And that's just as well. Because now that I knew where the hood pins would come through the hood I could mock up where the scuff plates were going to go. And honestly I don't like the look of them:



The problem with UPR's mounting system is you're locked into using the radiator mounts and I think they're too close together for my taste. I think this is ideally more of where I want the hood pins to be:

karman

I really like where mine are mounted.
To me, being close to the corners is the way to go.
The radiator mounts just don't look right to me either.