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Old 11/9/08, 2:06 AM   #1
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Oil catch can with pics.

I installed an oil catch can a few months ago. All I can say its working just nice, I even removed the hose that goes to the air intake and no oil is present there. Seems to work properly. The car seems to run just as well as it did before.

Here are some pics of it installed.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Engine bay. (I know its dirty, it will get cleaned and detailed shortly.)
Click the image to open in full size.

My new ebay special billet oil cap. 15bucks shipped and I painted it black with engine enamel.
Click the image to open in full size.

The drain plug.
Click the image to open in full size.

Ok now for the tutorial for making this thing functional.

When I ordered this catch can it was silver (cheepest one on ebay @ 30shiped)

The main problems with this can, it was full of shavings, metal shavings from when it got taped and threaded. Not good. So I sprayed the can with wd-40 and cleaned the shavings out. Looked inside with a flash light and found no more shavings.

The second problem is that none of the fittings had gaskets or teflon tape. Not a problem, just add some teflon and we were air tight.

The third problem was that the finish was fragile and got scratched, I didn't like the silver anyway so I sanded and painted it with engine enamel.

The fourth problem, the intake and exhaust side of the can had very small bore, so I bored it out with the largest bit I could find and a hand drill.

The firth problem, the can had a very short intake side, the whole point in having a can is to get the oil and gases to travel to the bottom of the can, so out came some copper tubing I had laying around and a flared extension was made that goes almost to the bottom of the can, basicaly 3/4 inch from the bottom.

Finally the last problem, the can had no material to trap the oil. My first choice would have been stuffing it with a coarse scotch bright pad or pads so the oil has a chance to get trapped inside the fiber and condese and stay in the can, but I didnt have any scotch bright pads so I used a brand new heavy duty home depot chemical and heat resistant yellow sponge cut in cylinders and shoved in through the drain hole. I used two sponge cylinders at around 2inch thick each so 4inches of material in the can or 3/4full of material.

Here is a pic of the sponge I cut.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by jaguarking11; 11/9/08 at 2:09 AM.
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Old 11/9/08, 4:36 PM   #2
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At the risk of sounding like a booger eating moron, what exactly does this item do?
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Old 11/9/08, 5:47 PM   #3
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Keeps oil from going into the intake if i'm not mistaken. I'm surprised you had to do all that modding. Would think by now that there would be a complete unit available for our cars.
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Old 11/9/08, 10:12 PM   #4
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Keeps oil from going into the intake if i'm not mistaken. I'm surprised you had to do all that modding. Would think by now that there would be a complete unit available for our cars.
There are units out there that are fully built from the get go, however they cost way too much money for what they provide. A moroso setup will run most people anywhere between 150-250bux. I got mine built and running for around 40bux, it would have been 50bux if I didn't have the sponge and copper tubing already. No big deal.

This is my guide to avoiding ridiculous demanding prices for certain things. It works as needed and didn't run me both my *********.
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Old 11/9/08, 11:05 PM   #5
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good improvisation
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Old 11/10/08, 6:15 PM   #6
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Do you have a link by chance to an article or information that describes exactly what the product does? I'd be curious to read up on this modification.
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Old 11/10/08, 8:06 PM   #7
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you might want to check this out. This has a good explanation as to why and how it works and this is one of several methods used to capture the oil mist.

http://ratstangrestoration.com/oilse...stallation.htm
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Old 11/11/08, 5:20 AM   #8
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Great Link !!!
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Old 11/11/08, 5:45 PM   #9
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If you get even the slightest leak in that setup with the cheap clear polycarbonate bowl (which is designed for use as an air compressor filter, NOT for an engine bay) it will stall out your engine.
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Old 11/11/08, 7:32 PM   #10
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What happens if you eliminate this hose by plugging it at both ends? How would it affect performance?
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Old 11/11/08, 7:36 PM   #11
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Disabling the PCV will cause the piston rings to not seal properly and lead to premature wear. The oil that "gunks" up the intake tract will not cause long-term problems. My 81 T-bird never used an oil separator and 28 years later (it was made in 1980), the brake lines rusted out. The engine is still fine.

The only legit reason to use an oil separator for the PCV line is when you want to eliminate oil puddling onto a heat exchanger for the supercharger intercooler or turbocharger aftercooler. If you're naturally aspirated, the oil that builds up on the intake tract is not a serious problem. Eliminating it may allow you to run more timing and squeeze a few extra ponies but if it develops leak, it will cause the engine to stall out.
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Last edited by metroplex; 11/11/08 at 7:40 PM.
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Old 11/11/08, 11:56 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
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The only legit reason to use an oil separator for the PCV line is when you want to eliminate oil puddling onto a heat exchanger for the supercharger intercooler or turbocharger aftercooler.
And in many cases, a simple breather is a better alternative to the catch can method. I run a breather on my car. One of the best explanations I've seen was this one from Jim Sr at JDM:

Quote:
There is no right or wrong with oil seperators. We just choose not to use them because to make it work properly you have to have a sealed system. What I mean by sealed system is no breather caps or any other evacuation device hooked to the engine. Some of the oil buildup in the supercharged cars is from reversion on decel. These motors are extremely tight and on hard decel you can pull 30 inches of vaccuum, which will allow oil to be sucked back through the guides. With a sealed system that will still occur. With an oil breather cap, that will not occur. If a car is running enough power, say 500whp+, we will stick a breather cap on it. This helps two things. 1 is to control the oil being sucked through the guides on a hard decel and 2 pressure or boost that seeps past the rings will get blown out the breather cap. Once oil goes past the guides, it actually goes back up through the intake tract and gets sucked up into the supercharger. On a sealed system, under hard accel, as soon as you shut the throttle body, the motor is going to do everything it can to pull air from somewhere. The path of least resistance is the crankcase - it will pull it past the rings, from the PCV system, and even from the rear main seal - with the breather cap, you're giving it a path of least resistance. It is useless to use an oil breather cap and an oil seperator device because the oil seperator device only works properly on a sealed system. We just chose to use a breather cap so that when the motor needs to pull air, it does it from the atmosphere instead.

We have run tests here on the dyno that shows an oil breather cap cuts nearly 80% of the oil ingestion on a high horsepower supercharged vehicle.
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Last edited by don_w; 11/11/08 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 11/12/08, 12:22 AM   #13
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And in many cases, a simple breather is a better alternative to the catch can method. I run a breather on my car. One of the best explanations I've seen was this one from Jim Sr at JDM:
Thats a very good explanation alright. However every few months someone comes to the forum with either a very rough idle or a car that wont start. Seems like the first thing anyone says is clean out the tb. Seems like rough driving puts out quite a bit of oil through the intake. And there is usualy at least a 50/50 chance that the issue gets resolved by just cleaning it.

I chose to run it as I don't like my engine ingesting oil.
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Old 11/12/08, 9:12 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by jaguarking11 View Post
Thats a very good explanation alright. However every few months someone comes to the forum with either a very rough idle or a car that wont start. Seems like the first thing anyone says is clean out the tb. Seems like rough driving puts out quite a bit of oil through the intake. And there is usualy at least a 50/50 chance that the issue gets resolved by just cleaning it.

I chose to run it as I don't like my engine ingesting oil.
That is certainly true if you still have a vacuum hose connected between the valve cover and the intake. And to be honest, I haven't seen many set ups that use the catch can on that side. Most of them are on the drivers side. My setup deletes the vacuum line entirely through the use of the breather. The pic below shows the breather, and the lack of any connection to the intake tube. This method completely eliminates any chance of oil getting to the TB.


.
Attached Thumbnails
Oil catch can with pics.-p1060212.jpg  
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Best 1/8 mi: 6.798 @ 102.98, 60' = 1.581, DA =1,397' (10-3-08) Click for Video
Best 1/4 mi: 10.581 @ 128.42, 60' = 1.524, 1/8 = 6.756 @ 102.21, DA=3,711' (9-20-08) Click for Video

MODS: Fully Built Teksid Shortblock, Livernois Stage 3 P&P Heads, Kenne Bell 2.4L Supercharger, and much more Click for Complete Mod List & Videos(Car Domain) Engine Built & Tuned by Adam at S.T. Motorsports
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Old 11/13/08, 2:04 AM   #15
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That is certainly true if you still have a vacuum hose connected between the valve cover and the intake. And to be honest, I haven't seen many set ups that use the catch can on that side. Most of them are on the drivers side. My setup deletes the vacuum line entirely through the use of the breather. The pic below shows the breather, and the lack of any connection to the intake tube. This method completely eliminates any chance of oil getting to the TB.


.

WOWZA thats a nice looking engine. Loving it.

Just one question though, do you get oil spots on the breathers?

I always thought the stock vacuum hose helped clear out the blowby from the crank case and helps keep the oil cleaner. Now insert an oil catch can and you have the system intact with ought reprecutions. Again your engine is blown so it looks to be setup differently.
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Old 11/13/08, 9:15 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by jaguarking11 View Post
Just one question though, do you get oil spots on the breathers?
Yes, there is a little oil seepage, but no big deal.
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Best 1/8 mi: 6.798 @ 102.98, 60' = 1.581, DA =1,397' (10-3-08) Click for Video
Best 1/4 mi: 10.581 @ 128.42, 60' = 1.524, 1/8 = 6.756 @ 102.21, DA=3,711' (9-20-08) Click for Video

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Old 11/13/08, 4:29 PM   #17
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Hey Don,

Where'd you get the breather that fits our valve covers?
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Old 11/13/08, 11:51 PM   #18
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Hey Don,

Where'd you get the breather that fits our valve covers?
You can get em at any auto parts store.
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Old 11/14/08, 5:22 AM   #19
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Less than $40 for breathers on Amazon and a couple of caps to seal off the port on the plenum and one on the intake tube.
  • 1 of: K&N 62-1340 Vent Filters
  • 1 of: K&N 62-1320 Vent Filters
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Old 11/14/08, 5:49 AM   #20
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Is that the Moroso radiator overflow replacement you have there, or another brand? Also, what did you do for caps?
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