Glenn

Mine might possibly be bad. For a replacement all I would have to do is find one with the same code? FTV1. Or do I need to match other numbers as well? Can I replace it with a non matching PCM as long as the doner car has the same options?

ford4v429

curious what indicates a failure?
I bought a 'twin' with all matching codes t my 06, as I want to be able to hack signals on the mustang if needed- the PCM is going on my old 429...needs a 'little' work first, new front timing cover with oil pump/crank trigger, hyd cam adv sprocket, dual water pumps like a old flathead(so it wont get too long to fit in a 69 fb)...anyways, back to reality-
just wonder what fails- could a connector just be corroded, or a faulty injector/coil blow a output transistor, stuff like that- or a more sinister 'computer' problem where it just kinda says 'duh'...

very interested in what can be a common failure mode- my guess is I'll likely kill mine probing around on it
I was tempted to take the new one apart to see if its potted or not, but was kinda hard to find a exact match- funny, found a BUNCH of V6 ones that look about identical on ebay for dirt cheep, but a december 05 built/06 gt stick calibration had me hunting for a couple months for one at all, let alone cheap.
from what Ive seen in the schematics, the plugs seemed standard, just some harnesses use pins missing from others- man/auto, big stuff like that, but remember reading something about vin in the code that can affect some of the radio stuff even, think they run a canbus type of thing to different SJB/stereo/HVAC controls/IUP clusters, etc... sorry for rambling on again, but I'm curious to hear all I can on these things too.

that said, there are shops that can reflash generic replacement modules too- but dunno about co$t... heard ford gets a pretty penny for the part/flash

Glenn

I've been running code p2198 for a long time now. I swaped the sensor over recently and it threw a code on the opp bank stuck rich. I replaced the sensor and it threw the P2198 code again. I requested new tunes but it's still throwing the code and wanting to die. I finally took it up to my local guy for a diagnostic check. Running rich very very rich. All sensors check out good no vacuum leaks. Its pretty much off the charts rich at this point. It may just have something to do with my tune also. I have an email sent to them.
The new tune they sent me the car ran like it had cams in it at idle. So I requested another set of tunes. Still running ****ty. I don't have my original tunes to retry the car ran better on those but still had the code.
I'm hoping its a tune thing but wanted to learn a bit about the computer. I may have done something dumb with the tuner myself. I was pretty sure I returned it to stock before I loaded the new tunes up to my tuner. SCT3


I guess I'll throw my stock airbox on along with my stock tune and see how it runs. I'm pretty sure it will throw a code because of the headers. But if it still runs crappy I will have to blame the computer.

houtex

If it does, then these are next:

Fuel injectors.

Fuel pressure.

Not that it'll be either, just.. maybe need to check 'em.

m05fastbackGT

You would think if his issue were fuel system related, his PCM would throw different codes ? But I'd also check the fuel injectors, pressure and senors just to be on the safe side anyhow..

Glenn

Yes the guy doing the diagnostic check said all that was fine. I agree I would think I would have more than just one code if the PCM was bad. I didn't find time to throw my stock intake back on. Thanks for the replies Gents

Glenn

Put the stock intake and tune on/in and it seems to be running fine. I was pretty sure it had to do with the tunes. At this point its just full exhaust. I'll see if it throws a code tomorrow.
But the point of this thread was I wanted to learn more about the computer.
I've had two computers fail on the same car it was an 87 Plymouth Sundance turbo. it was a fun car. It was pretty new when they went out. One the dealer replaced and one I got from the bone yard. I can't remember but I think I could use several different numbered pcm's. The car would not run.


The guy that looked at my car made me think that mine could be bad because of the way it was acting. And I always thought they either worked or didn't work. But then I've been on some pretty messed up computers that still worked somewhat.


I have to agree on the computer being the same on the 6er and the plug in harness just have fewer pins in them. I found this place on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-ECM-ECU-Engine-Computer-Repair-Return-Ford-ECM-Repair-/171635555377?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2006%7CModel%3AMustang%7CSubmodel%3AGT&hash=item27f646bc31&vxp=mtr

interesting. Tell him your symptom's and he can fix them

houtex

The pressure might. The injector won't, there's no readout about how much it's throwing in the cylinder until it gets to the HEGOs. It'll just **** gas in and throw the too rich codes. The computer 'opened' it for the correct time, but the injector dribbled too much because leaky pintle or something.

Source: Happened on my HoopTBird. Too rich codes on the v6. Rear cylinders both banks injector was leaky. Also cost me *all three* **** cats in that car. Didn't catch/understand it in time. Ah well. I won't forget, that's for sure, and is why I bring up the injectors.

I highly doubt it's the pressure, but a rich code means this. That it jumps from one side to the other is the only reason I mention it.

I'm bettin' the injectors are intermittently whack and need a serious seafoaming. Or replacement. Either.

But that, again, is just a guess.

m05fastbackGT

I'll put it this way.. If I were a betting man ? I'd put my money on your guesses over someone else's inaccurate claims any day

Glenn

Stock intake and tune on full exhaust 45 miles no codes. Knock on wood. I though it could have been an injector also. I have ran injector cleaner through it on a somewhat reg basis. To much pressure would throw codes on both banks I would assume