You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I removed the battery the other day, and I am trying to put the positive terminal back on, but i am having a big problem with the screw that tightens the terminal connection. The screw goes into a 2 pieces block, and every time I start to tighten it, the two blocks come apart, and it nevers tightens the terminal properly.
Can someone tell me the secret of getting back on, and if possible take a closeup picture of the terminal, so that I can see how it all goes together. Maybe I have it wrong.
Is there a PDF technical document out there that show it better?
Yeah that's fun isn't it? Thanks Ford for reinventing the wheel once again by making something simple, difficult. I went through that same hell when my battery crapped out a few months back. About all you can do is tighten the little bolt just enough that it grabs the first few threads, and wriggle it onto the post. That **** had me so mad I was ready to start kicking the door of my car - I'm serious.
__________________ This is a message forum, not a cell phone. Feel free to use complete sentences and whole words rather than come off like a 12 year old texting her friends
If you look at it closely, you will see that there is a metal bar that runs from the bottom wedge (block) to the outside of the clamp and they clip together with about 3/16" of the bar sticking out the left side of the clamp. It looks like your bar came lose, so as you tighten the bolt down, it isn't pulling the outside of the clamp against the inside of the clamp. So no clamp... It should be an easy fix.
As you tighten down the screw, the wedge surface pushes the top part of the block to the left while pulling the bottom part of the block to the right. This tightens the clamp nice and even.
Personally, I've found this design to work VERY well in the six or so times I have taken the positive terminal off. It loosens up easily and clamps securely without having to over tighten the bolt. It also keeps the bolt itself away from the actual post, which should slow down the rate that it corrodes.
Model: GT Premium, Torch Red, ICAP 68R, IUP 18G, manual, active anti-theft system, Stock rims
Performance Mods: Eibach springs, Flow Master, MGW shifter, LC-1 Wideband, Webelectronics sequencers, D-Spec dampers
Other Mods: 20% tint, JL Audio front subs, Polk Audio MMC6500 speakers, Dynomating for squeak damping
TSBs: Fuel tank fill, upper strut bearings, fuel sender
First dent: backed into in a parking lot (while parked) Sept 4th 2005
Related to this, why is Sean's so close to the battery, where Glenn's isn't?
Mine is like Sean's... and a Ford shop put in the new battery... and now I can't get my cover to properly cover it due to there being no clearance between the wedge and the battery now... Le Sigh.
Edit: Wait... Sean's is backwards to what Glenn's showing... I'll check mine for that. Probably what it is.
--- Awesome: My 2006 Mustang GT Coupe, Performance White, Charcoal Interior. Mods so far: GT/CS Bumper, HR010 Hot Rod Black lower trim, Custom Blackened Dash Panels, 2010 GT500 Vert Wheels, GTA Axle-backs, Koni STR.Ts, Eibach GT500 Sway Bar Kit, Ford P Springs, GT500 Front Arms, BMR Hammertone Poly-Poly LCAs and Adjustable Panhard. http://forums.themustangsource.com/s...&highlight=wai
--- Ride, the Copper and Gold PC800 of Win: http://i.imgur.com/eiECkMg.jpg In memory of my dearly missed Muskrat (RIP)
Last edited by houtex; 8/4/08 at 10:47 PM.
Reason: figured it out... maybe.
Thanks Glenn for the picture. Mine is for sure on wrong. I will be fixing that today. The top portion must have swung around on me after I disconnected it, as I was concentrating on getting it connected that way, and did not try it any other way.
Anyone know where I can find one of these? Had some bad corrosion on the Boss and mine busted, not sure if it was from me trying to tighten it up or what. Ford parts here says they can only sell the whole cable assembly for $300+