5pointoh

I have got an 89 5.0L LX convertible which still has the stock exhaust on it. The bolts on it are extremely rusty and hard to get off. There are two 14mm bolts from each muffler that connect up to the stock H pipe flanges.....I have managed to get one off on each side (the inside ones, towards the center) as they were not too rusty. The other two (on the outside away from the center of the car) are not cooperating ....as I have tried spraying on WD40 and Liquid Wrench in an attempt to loosen them.

Would a breaker bar be something to consider? Any ideas on how I can wrangle the other two off would be appreciated?

tom_vilsack

try PB blaster and some heat

Glenn

yep heat the nut up with a propane torch. Try not to hit the bolt to much with the heat just the nut.






Disclaimer: The nut will be hot after you heat it up with the torch

hi5.0

Can also try get melted candle wax onto the threads. Yep, be careful with the torch! BTW, if you're going to ditch the stock exhaust system, may as well attack it with a Sawzall or a cutting wheel.

5pointoh

Where can you buy the PB blaster? I live in BC as well...Surrey to be more specific

tom_vilsack

i know crappy tire sells the stuff...

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/LubricantsPenetrants/PRD~0381510P/PB%252BBlaster.jsp?locale=en

so what you changing? whole exhaust system of just mufflers?

you a member here? maybe try posting question...

http://www.vancouvermustangs.com/forums/

5pointoh

I am going to change eventually the whole system from headers to tail pipes. Right now, I am looking at just installing a Flowmaster catback. Unfortunately, the car still has the original exhaust from 1989 on it.

I will make a trip out to Crappy Tire and pick up some of this PB Blaster and try it out. Unfortunately, I do not have access to a torch.

Do you think a breaker bar will help?

Unfortunately, I tend to find our local forum to be less helpful if you know what I mean.

Glenn

you can pick up a tourch and tip at sears or ace hardware for under 20bucks. just a n fyi. You can use a breaker bar but will probably break the bolt. Which is ok because you want it off any way. Best of luck

tom_vilsack

completely understand...you might wanna try messaging DTF member there with your question...he's head mech at local ford dealership...i asked him a few questions and was always really helpful...

good luck

5pointoh

Thanks! I think I will try the PB Blaster with a breaker bar first and then go from there.

5pointoh

OK...after trying everything I could think of...including using an impact wrench. I finally got these fruckin hex nuts off using a hacksaw. I guess that is what you get for a car that was originally from Ontario and has never had the exhaust changed. The nuts were rusted like crazy...neverthless it is done now.

Next thing is to replace the stock H pipe with an off road H from BBK. How hard is it to access the bolts connecting the stock H to header manifolds? It looks like the stock cats block them off pretty good. Would it be best to use multiple extensions with the rachet?

hi5.0

^^^ Yes. In addition to hitting them with a lot of penetrating oil, elbow grease, blood, sweat, and choice curse words, you may want to use a "wobble" extension handy along with a universal joint. Probably a good idea to remove the starter and O2 sensors. The passenger side exhaust header to H-pipe bolts are a PITA to access. Having eyes on the ends of your finger tips helps. The air injection tube to factory H-pipe will also be quite difficult to remove if you want to keep it intact. It can be done - just daunting since it uses a weird crush-type of pipe clamp (at least the one on my car did). But since you're going with a off-road H, probably going to toss the rest of the emissions equipment anyway. Have fun.

5pointoh

Is getting the stock H off really that difficult with the foxes? It seems like the shops can get them off and on no problem. What would they be using or have access to that makes it that much easier to get the bolts off....aside from the hoist?

Glenn

I'm telling you that a propane torch really works wonders with frozen nuts and bolts. Pick one up. You will not be sorry. H pipe ..... You can do et

5pointoh

Sounds good, I will look into the propane torch in getting the stock H off. I swapped the stock H out of my 05 GT for a Pypes off road H this past summer and it was not too bad, but the nuts there had no rust. Thanks for the encouragement! I will follow your advice as posted earlier. Anything else I should know about using the torch to get the nuts off the stock H off the manifolds?

Tonite, I finished sawing off the tail pipes from the mufflers. I also managed to get the tail pipes off the car completely. The OEM hangers are not a straight piece of metal like the new Flowmasters I have. The hangers protrude out a bit towards the end of the hanger and that made it challenging trying to get the hangers off the rubber piece because they were hooked in really good especially after all those years (i.e. almost 22 years). Anyways....will get back to it on the weekend.

Glenn, do you have any pics of your legend lime? You can see mine in my profile.

Glenn

its pretty much back to stock at this point. I took off my rims, springs and louvers and sold them. lame

5pointoh

Why did you do that?

5pointoh

Any idea how long I need to apply the flame on the nut for?

I am wondering if it is also a good idea to use any kind of penetrant at the same time? I am not sure if PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and WD 40 are flammable or not......but I would imagine using the torch first and then putting the penetrant on might be a better sequence to do things??

Finally got the muffers off today with a little help from the WD40....works wonders to help lubricate. The new tail pipes were a bit of a challenge to get in over the rear axle. I had to lift the back end of the car a bit and then had my wife snake the tail pipe in at the right angle so it would get over the rear axle hump. Nevertheless it is done Now, gonna work on getting the stock H off.

Glenn

to dark for this thread

Glenn

Usally only a minute or two will do it. Heat up one side of the nut then the other. It doesn't have to be red hot. If it doesn't comwe lose heat it up a little more. Disclaimer >Carefull the nut will be hot after you heat it up with a torch... lol